Memoir of William Watts McNair | Page 5

to slip off the paper that was in use inside one of the
folds and expose to the gaze of the inquisitive individual merely a book
or rather the outer case of one, in which I had written several recipes in
Urdu. The instruments were either carried by the Saiad or myself in a
gooda, i.e., untanned skin of goat or sheep invariably used by travellers
in this region.
The Malakand Pass (elevation 3,575 feet) is well wooded with
brushwood and stunted oak; grass and a goodly supply of water from
springs are procurable all through the year. The ascent is easy, and
practicable for heavy baggage. The descent into the Swat Valley is not

nearly so easy; beasts of burden as well as foot passengers have to pick
out their way, but a company of Bengal or Madras sappers would in a
few hours clear all difficulties sufficiently well to allow a mule battery
to keep up with infantry. When once in the plains this state of things
changes; where previously one had to avoid loose rocks and boulders,
we had now to search for a dry spot on which to alight. Both banks of
the rivers are irrigated; the soil is very rich, and well adapted for rice
cultivation. The valley has the reputation of being very unhealthy,
owing, I have no doubt, to the effluvia arising from the damp soil. A
Swatie is easily recognised by the sallow appearance he presents--a
striking contrast to his nearest neighbours.
The Swat river is about 50 feet wide, from three to four deep, and flush
with its banks. We crossed over in jalas (i.e. inflated skins) opposite
the large village of Chakdara; the loads were taken off, and our animals
forded the stream with little or no difficulty. Almost due north of our
crossing, and distant eight miles, lay the village of Kotigram. The
valley, known as the Unch Plain, is somewhat open, narrowing as we
neared the village. Midway, about Uncha, we passed several topes, or
Buddhist remains. These topes are very numerous, at least twenty were
visible at one time, and some of great size and in a very good state of
preservation--more than one quite as large as the famous tope of Mani
Kiyala. A little further up the valley towards the Katgola Pass, to the
left of our route, there were numerous excavated caves, in the side of
the hill, in one of which the traveller could take shelter during a passing
shower. The assent to the Laram Kotal is easy, and though the south
face of this range is somewhat denuded of both fir and pine, yet the soil
is sufficiently rich to allow of cultivation on its slopes. On this pass,
whilst taking some plane-table observations, I was within an ace of
being detected from an unexpected quarter. Four men armed with
matchlocks showed themselves. Much quicker than it takes me to
record it, the rule or sight vane was run up my long and open sleeve,
and I began to pretend to be looking about for stray roots; the intruders
were thrown off the scent, and after a while assisted the Saiad in
looking for odd roots for the supposed native doctor.
The descent from the pass, which registered 7,310 feet, to Killa Rabat

(3,900 feet) in the Panjkhora Valley, was for the first half of the
distance by a long and densely wooded spur, within an easy slope, but
on nearing the foot we found it very stony. Our party was met at the
entrance by the khan, and later on we were invited to dinner by him.
Long before this I had got quite used to eating with my fingers, but on
this occasion I must admit I found it unpleasant diving the fingers into
a richly made curry floating in grease, and having at the next mouthful
to partake of honey and omelet. The banquet lasted for an hour or more,
and I was beginning to feel uncomfortable sitting on the ground in the
one position so peculiar to Eastern nations, when the hookah came to
my rescue, and allowed of a change in position.
We forded the Panjkhora a little above the fort, and by 5 p.m. reached
Shahzadgai.
We found the chief busy with a durbar he was holding under a large
chinar tree, and discussing the plan of attack on Kunater Fort. Our
introduction was somewhat formal, except in the case of Hosein Shah,
who was very cordially received and publicly thanked for having
responded to the chief's request to bring a doctor from India for him.
Rahmatullah Khan, chief of Dir, is an Eusafzai, ruler of a population
exceeding 600,000. In appearance he is anything but
prepossessing--small of stature and very dark in complexion for a
Pathan; with