Memoir of William Watts McNair | Page 6

not a tooth in his head, and the skin on his face loose and
wrinkled, he presents the appearance of an aged man, though really not
more than fifty-five.
I was at Shahzadgai seven days, and during that time succeeded in
bringing round the chief, who was suffering from an ordinary cold and
cough. I cannot say my stay was a pleasant one, for from early morn till
dusk our hut was surrounded by patients, and inasmuch as the chief had
recovered, it was considered a sufficient guarantee that, no matter what
the ailment or disease might be, if only the tabib would prescribe, all
would come right. Men with withered arms and legs, others totally
blind, were expected to be cured, and no amount of persuasion would
convince those who had brought such unfortunates that the case was a
hopeless one. It was here that I got as a fee the antique seal which I

have brought for exhibition to the meeting. The man who brought it
had found it across the Panjkhora, opposite Shahzadgai, whilst
throwing up some earthworks; it was then encased in a copper vessel.
General Cunningham, to whom I showed the seal at Simla about three
months ago, writes as follows:--"I am sorry to say that I cannot make
out anything about your seal. At first I thought that the man standing
before a burning lamp might be a fire-worshipper, in which case the
seal would be Persian. I incline, however, to think that it may be an
Egyptian seal. I believe that each symbol is one of the common forms
on Egyptian monuments; this can be determined by one versed in
Egyptian hieroglyphics." Since my arrival here I have submitted the
seal to Sir Henry Rawlinson. The fact of its having been dug up in the
Panjkhora Valley adds great interest to the relic.
On the 24th we left for Kumbar. Whilst here it got abroad that my
friend Hosein Shah was accompanied by two Europeans in disguise.
The originator of this report was no other than Rahat Shah Meah, a
native in the confidence of our Indian Government, and enjoying the
benefits of a jagir or grant of land in the district of Nowshera, given
him for loyal services, but a sworn enemy of my two friends. He had
sent letters to Asmar, Chitral, Swat, and Bijour, urging on the people to
track out the Kafirs who were in company with the Meagans, and
destroy them, as they could have gone with no other purpose than to
spy out the land. Shao Baba took up the matter, and not until the Dir
chief had written contradicting the statement and certifying that he had
asked my companions to bring from India a hakim, were suspicions
allayed. Unfortunately, in a country like Afghanistan, where fanaticism
is so rampant, once let it be even surmised that outsiders, and these the
detested Kafirs, are about, the bare contradiction does not suffice, and
the original idea only lies dormant, as our future progress showed.
Two marches took us from Kumbar (elevation 4,420 feet) to Dir (5,650
feet). Crossed en route the Barawal range; height of the pass is 8,340
feet, by a very fair road, which can be ridden up. Here our party was
joined by the Dir chief, who having settled his disputes, was
proceeding to his capital.

The fort of Dir is of stone, but in decay; it has an ancient aspect, but
this applies still more to the village of Ariankot, which occupies the flat
top of a low spur detached from the fort by a small stream. The spurs
fall in perpendicular cliffs of some 20 feet in height, and in these are
traces of numerous caves similar to those already spoken of, and some
of which are still used as dwellings by the Balti people, who come to
take service as porters between Dir and Chitral. The population of the
fort and valley exceeds 6,000 souls.
Four more days were wasted by our party at Dir procuring carriers, as
the Lowarai Pass (called Lohari by some) was not sufficiently clear of
snow to admit of our baggage animals crossing it, and from all
accounts brought in would not be so for another month. This decided us
on procuring the services of Baltis, who had come from Daroshp and
Chitral, and who preferred their wages being paid in cloths or salt to
sums of money. I should here add that my companions had in the
meanwhile received letters from the neighbourhood of Asmar, advising
them not to pay a visit to Arnawai just then, as the rumours concerning
us were not very favourable; so, rather than remain where we were, I
suggested visiting Chitral. The idea was adopted, the loads were made
over to the men