Memoir of William Watts McNair | Page 4

Saiad; it is to this gentleman that I am indebted for the partial success
that attended our undertaking. I say partial advisedly, inasmuch as the
original programme we had marked out, of penetrating into the heart of
Kafiristan, fell through, for reasons that will appear as I proceed with
the narrative.
The Saiad, whose name I need not mention, had been made over to me

more than a year ago by Major Holdich to instruct. This led to a mutual
friendship, and on his explaining to me that he had a plan of getting
into the Kafir country, which was by accompanying Meahs Hosein
Shah and Sahib Gul (who yearly go to Chitral either through Dir or via
the Kunar Valley) as far as Birkot and then following up the Arnawai
stream, crossing the hills to the westward and returning to Jalalabad
either by the Alingar or Alishang rivers, I suggested accompanying him
in the guise of a Hakim or Tabib, i.e., native doctor. He was to be
accompanied by Meah Gul, a Kafir convert. The two Meahs of course
had to be consulted, and after some difficulty I succeeded in getting
their consent, having convinced them that the undertaking was entirely
at my own risk, and that in the event of my detection they would be
freed from all responsibility. I next sent in my papers for a year's
furlough with permission to spend the first half in India. This was
granted, and my leave commenced from March 27th. By April 9th I
was at Nowshera, and by three o'clock on the following morning, with
head shaved, a weak solution of caustic and walnut juice applied to
hands and face, and wearing the dress peculiar to the Meahs or Kaka
Khels, and in company with Hosein Shah, I sallied out as Mir
Mahomed or Hakim Sahib.
It may not be out of place if I here mention that the Kaka Khel section
of Pathans, to which the two Meahs belong, are not only very
influential, but are respected throughout both Afghanistan and
Badakshan. The Kafirs also pay them a certain amount of respect, and
will not knowingly attack them, owing to an epidemic of cholera which
once broke out amongst them immediately after they had returned from
murdering a party of Kaka Khels, and which they superstitiously
attributed to their influence. They number in all a few short of 3,500;
this includes menials and followers. Though really considered spiritual
advisers they are virtually traders, and I do not think I am far wrong in
saying that they have the monopoly of the trade from Kabul eastward to
the borders of Kashmir territory. If you say that you are a Meahgan or
Kaka Khel, words signifying one and the same thing, you have not only
access where others are questioned, and a sort of blackmail levied on
them, but you are treated hospitably, and your daily wants supplied free
of cost--as was often the case with us. Of course the Meaghans have to

make some return. It is done in this wise: a fair lasting from five to
seven days is yearly held at Ziarat, a village five miles south-west of
Nowshera, the resting-place of the saint Kaha Sahib; it is resorted to by
thousands from across our north and east frontiers, and all comers are
housed and fed by the Meahs collectively. Offerings, it is true, are
made to the shrine, but I am told the amount collected is utilised solely
for the keeping up of the shrine.
What follows is taken from my diary, which I stealthily managed to
keep up during my journey. It was not till April 13th that we were
fairly across the British frontier. The interval of four days was spent in
getting together all necessaries. The rendezvous was for the 13th at
Ganderi, and true to appointment all were present, our party then
consisting of forty, including muleteers, and fifteen baggage animals.
In the shape of provisions, we had nothing but sugar and tea. The
contents of our loads (I should say goods, only that we got very little in
return) were cloths of English manufacture, musical boxes, binoculars,
time-pieces, a spare revolver or two with a few rounds of ammunition,
salt, glass beads, shells, needles, country-made looking-glasses, shoes,
and lungis, as well as several phials and galipots of medicines. In
addition to these I had secreted a prismatic and magnetic compass, a
boiling point and aneroid thermometer, and a plane-table which I had
constructed for the occasion. The last-mentioned instrument answered
famously the purpose for which it was intended, and was in use from
the beginning to almost the end of my journey. It answered, in case of a
surprise, to pass off for a tabib book of prescriptions; all that was
necessary was