Life in Mexico | Page 5

X.--Mexican Travelling--General Aspect of the Country--Village of
Santa Clara-- Robbers' House--Temples of the Sun and Moon--San
Juan--Mexican Posada-- School-house--Skulls--Hard Fare--Travelling
Dress--Sopayuca--Military Administrador--Santiago--Matadors and
Picadors--Evenings in the Country-- Dances--Mexican
Songs--Cempoala--Plaza de Toros--Skill of the Horsemen--
Omatusco--Accident--Tulansingo--Beautiful Garden--Mexican
Dishes--Fruits-- Horses--Games of Forfeits--Ranchera's Dress--Young
Girls and their Admirers--Verses--Knowledge of Simple
Medicine--Indian Baths--Hidden Treasures--Anecdote
LETTER THE SEVENTEENTH
Arrival at Tepenacasco--Lake with Wild-ducks--Ruined
Hacienda--Sunset on the Plains--Troop of Asses--Ride by
Moonlight--Leave Tepenacasco--San
Miguel--Description--Thunderstorm--Guasco--Journey to Real del
Monte-- English Road--Scenery--Village of Real--Count de

Regla--Director's House-- English Breakfast--Visit to the
Mines--Mining Speculations--Grand Scenery --Visit to Regla--The
Cascade--The Storm--Loneliness--A Journey in Storm and
Darkness--Return to Tepenacasco--Journey to Sopacuya--Narrow
Escape-- Famous Bull--Return to Mexico
LETTER THE EIGHTEENTH
English Ball--Dresses--Diamonds--Mineria--Arrival of the Pope's
Bull-- Consecration of the Archbishop--Foreign Ministers--Splendour
of the Cathedral--Description of the Ceremony
LETTER THE NINETEENTH
Mexican Servants--Anecdotes--Remedies--An unsafe
Porter--Galopinas--The Reboso--The Sarape--Women-cooks--Foreign
Servants--Characteristics of Mexican Servants--Servants' Wages--Nun
of the Santa Teresa--Motives for Taking the Veil
LETTER THE TWENTIETH
The Convent Entry--Dialogue--A Chair in Church--Arrival of the
Nun--Dress --José Maria--Crowd--Withdrawal of the Black
Curtain--The Taking of the Veil--The Sermon--A Dead Body--Another
Victim--Convent of the Encarnación --Attempt at a
Hymn--Invitation--Morning Visit--The Nun and her Mother--
Banquet--Taking Leave--Ceremony of the Veil-taking--A Beautiful
Victim-- The Last Look--Presentation to the
Bishop--Reflections--Verses
LETTER THE TWENTY-FIRST
San Agustin--The Gambling Fête--The Beauties of the Village--The
Road from Mexico--Entry to San Agustin--The Gambling Houses--San
Antonio--The Pedregal--Last Day of the Fête--The Cockpit--The
Boxes--The Cock-fight-- Decorum--Comparisons--Dinner--Ball at
Calvario--House of General Moran-- View of the Gambling
Tables--The Advocate--Ball at the Plaza de Gallos-- Return to
Mexico--Reflections--Conversation between two Ministers
LETTER THE TWENTY-SECOND
Countess C---a--Gutierrez Estrada--Dinner at General
Moran's--Dowager Marquesa--Fête at San Antonio--Approach of the
Rainy Season--Diamonds and Plate--Great Ball--Night
Traveling--Severe Storm--
Chapter of

Accidents-- Corpus Christ!--Poblana Dress--Book
Club--Ball--Humming Bird--Franciscan Friar--Missions to Old and
New California--Zeal and Endurance of the Missionaries--Present
Condition--Convent Gardener
LETTER THE TWENTY-THIRD
The President--Yturbide--Visit from the Archbishop--Señor
Canedo--General Almonte--Señor Cuevas--Situation of an Archbishop
in Mexico--Of Señor Posada--His Life--Mexican Charity--Wax
Figures--Anecdote--Valuable
Present--Education--Comparison--Schools--Opportunities--Natural
Talent-- Annual--Compliments to the Mexican Ladies by the
Editor--Families of the Old
School--Morals--Indulgence--Manners--Love of Country--Colleges
LETTER THE TWENTY-FOURTH
Revolution in Mexico--Gomez Farias and General Urrea--The
Federalists--The President Imprisoned--Firing--Cannon--First
News--Escape--Proclamation of the Government--Cannonading--Count
C---a--Houses Deserted--Countess del V---e--Proclamation of the
Federalists--Circular of the Federalists-- Scarcity of
Provisions--Bursting of a Shell--Refugees--Dr. Plan--Young Lady
Shot--Gomez Farias--Rumours--Address of Gomez Farias--Balls and
Bullets--Visit from the ----- Minister--Arrival of Monsieur de -------
Expected Attack--Skirmish--Appearance of the Street--San
Cosme--General-- The Count de B------ More
Rumours--Suspense--Cannonading--Government Bulletin--Plan of the
Rebels Defeated--Proclamation of the President--Of General
Valencia--Maternal Affection--Fresh Reports--Families leaving the
City--Letter from Santa Anna--Bustamante's Letter when imprisoned--
Propositions--Refusal--Taoubaya--Archbishop--Fresh
Proposals--Refusal-- Second Letter from Santa Anna--Government
Bulletin--Proclamations--An awkward Mistake--The Archbishop visits
the President--Conclusion of the Revolution--Government
Newspapers--Circulars
LETTER THE TWENTY-FIFTH
Plan of the Federalists--Letter from Farias--Signing of Articles--
Dispersion of the "Pronunciados"--Conditions--Orders of General
Valencia-- Of the Governor--Address of General Valencia--Departure

of our Guests--The _Cosmopolita_--State of the Palace and
Streets--Bulletin of the Firing-- Interior of Houses--Escape of
Families--Conduct of the Troops--Countess del V---e-- Santa
Anna--Congress--Anecdote--Discussion in Congress--Leprosy
LETTER THE TWENTY-SIXTH
Visitors--Virgin de los Remedies--_Encarnación_--Fears of the
Nuns--Santa Teresa--Rainy Season--Amusing Scene--"_Está a la
disposición de V._"-- Mexican Sincerity--Texian Vessels--Fine
Hair--Schoolmistress--Climate--Its Effects--Nerves--_Tours de
Force_--Anniversary--Speech--Paseo--San Angel-- Tacubaya--Army of
"The Three Guarantees"--Plan of Yguala--A Murder--Indian
Politeness--Drunkenness--Señor Canedo--Revolutions in Mexico--The
Penon-- The Baths--General ------- --Situation and View--Indian
Family--Of the Boiling
Springs--Capabilities--Solitude--Chapultepec--The _Desagravios_--
Penitence at San Francisco--Discipline of the Men--Discourse of the
Monk-- Darkness and Horrors--Salmagundi
LETTER THE TWENTY-SEVENTH
Fête-day--Friendly Hint--Precautions--General Tranquillity--President
in San Agustin--Revisit Museum--Ancient
Manuscripts--Sculpture--Bronze Bust, etc.--Freshness after Rain--Ball
at the French Minister's--Pamphlet-- Gutierrez Estrada--His
Character--Concealment--_Mexicalsingo_--Minister of the
Treasury--Archbishop's Permission--Paintings--Mexican
Painters--Santa Teresa--Description of the Interior--The
Penitences--Tortures-- Disciplines, etc.--Supper--Profane
Ballads--Monasteries--San Francisco-- Padre Prior--Soldiers and Friars
LETTER THE TWENTY-EIGHTH
_día de Muertos_--Leave Mexico--_Herraderos_--San
Cristobal--Tunas--Plaza de Toros--Throwing the
_Laso_--Accidents--Rustic Breakfast--Country Fare-- Baked
Meat--Indian Market--Buried Bull--Mountain--Solitary _Hacienda_--
_Reyes_--Mules marked--Return--Queen of Spain's
Birthday--Diplomatic Dinner
LETTER THE TWENTY-NINTH
Virgin of _Cavadonga_--Santo Domingo--Decorations and Music--
Daguerreotype--Weekly Soirées--An Arrival--An

Earthquake--Honourable Mr. ----- --Broken Furniture--_Dios_--Day of
the Virgin of Guadalupe--Party to the
_Desierto_--_Itzcuintepotzotli_--Inn of _Guajimalco_--Ruined
Convent-- Its Origin--_Dejeune a la Fourchette_--Splendid
Scenery--Vow to the Virgin--Musical Mass--Tacuba--Ride with the
Prior
LETTER THE THIRTIETH
Christmas-day--Kalends and Mass--Amateur
Performances--Solo--_Posadas_-- Wandering of the Holy
Family--_Nacimiento_--Crowded Party--French Cooks-- Mexican
Cook--State of Household--New Year's Day--Mass--Dirtiness of the
Churches, etc.--Comparisons--Private Chapels--English
Club--Preparations for Journey
LETTER THE THIRTY-FIRST
Leave Mexico--Cuernavaca--_Tierra
Caliente_--_Atlacamulco_--Orange Groves --Sugar-cane--Annual
Produce--Will of Cortes--Description--Coffee
Plantation--Scorpions--List of Venomous
Reptiles--_Aspansingo_--Doubts and Difficulties--A Decision
LETTER THE THIRTY-SECOND
Leave _Atlacamulco_--Assemble by Starlight--Balmy
Atmosphere--Flowers and Trees of the Tropics--The Formidable
_Barrancas_--Breakfast under the Trees--Force of the
Sun--_Meacatlan_--Hospitality--Profitable Estate-- Leave
Meacatlan--Beautiful Village--Musical Bells--Ride by Moonlight--
Sugar Fires--Cocoyotla--Old Gentleman--Supper--Orange-trees and
Cocoas-- Delicious Water--Sugar Estates--_A Scorpion_--Set off for
the Cave-- Morning Ride--Dangerous Path
LETTER THE THIRTY-THIRD
Cave of _Cacahuamilpa_--Superstition--Long-bearded Goat--Portal--
Vestibule--Fantastic Forms--Breakfast--Pine Torches--Noble Hall--
Stalactites and Stalagmites--Egyptian Pyramids--Double
Gallery--Wonderful Formations--Corridor--Frozen
Landscape--Amphitheatre--World in Chaos-- Skeleton--Wax
Lights--Hall of Angels--Return--Distant Light--Indian
Alcalde--_Cautlamilpas_--Rancho--Return to
Cocoyotla--Chapel--Meacatlan-- Eclipse of the Moon--Benighted

Travellers--Indian Village--_El Puente_-- Return to Atlacamulco
LETTER THE THIRTY-FOURTH
Ride by Starlight--Fear of Robbers--Tropical Wild Flowers--Stout
Escort-- _Hautepec_--Hacienda of _Cocoyoc_--A Fire--Three
Thousand Orange-trees-- Coffee Mills, etc.--Variety of Tropical
Fruits--Prodigality of Nature-- _Casasano_--Celebrated
Reservoir--Ride to