Life in Mexico | Page 4

as a true lover of nature and
a keen observer of manners and customs, is evident in her letters, which
constitute by common consent a most entertaining and truly delectable
narrative, which even the lapse of more than a century has not been
able to mar.
MANUEL ROMERO DE TERREROS, Marques de San Francisco.

REFERENCES
_History of the Conquest of Mexico with the Life of the Conqueror
Hernando Cortes, and a view of the Ancient Mexican Civilization_.
New York, Harper & Bros., 1843.
_Life in Mexico, During a Residence of Two Years in That Country_,

by Madame Calderon de la Barca, with a Preface by W. H. Prescott,
author of The History of Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain, 1843.
_The Attaché in Madrid; or, Sketches of the Court of Isabella II_,
translated from the German, New York, 1856.
Prescott Unpublished Letters to Gayangos in the Library of the
Hispanic Society of America, edited with notes by Clara Louisa Penney,
New York, 1927.

CONTENTS
GLOSSARY
LETTER THE FIRST
Departure of the "Norma"--Last look of New York Bay--Fellow
passengers-- Contrary Winds--Deceitful Appearances--Sunset in
Southern Latitudes--Seas passed over by Columbus--Varied
Occupations on Shipboard--Berry Islands-- Bahama Banks--Evening in
a Tropical Sea--L. E. L.--Pan of Matanzas--Morro Castle--Bay of
Havana--Arrival--Handsome House in Havana--Sights and Sounds
LETTER THE SECOND
Havana Aristocracy--Lucia di Lammermoor--La Rossi and
Montresor--Brig-of- war--Countess de V---a--Dinner at
H---a's--Southerly Winds--View from the Balcony--Quinta of Count
V---a--San Cristobal--Mass at San Felipe--Erard Harp--Dinner at
General M---o's--A Dessert at Havana--Queen of Spain's
Birthday--Dinner at the Yntendencia--La Pantanelli--Theatre of
Tacon-- Railroad--Cure by Lightning--Shops--Ball at the Countess
F---a's Last Visit--Souvenirs
LETTER THE THIRD
Departure in the Jason--Spanish Captain and Officers--Life on board a
Man- of-War--"_Balances_"--Fishing--"_Le Petit
Tambour_"--Cocoa-nuts--A _Norte_--Spanish Proverb--Peak of
Orizava--Theory and Practice--_Norte Chocolatero_--Contrary
Winds--Chain of Mountains--Goleta
LETTER THE FOURTH
Distant View of Vera Cruz--Pilots--Boat from the City--Mutual
Salutes-- Approach to Vera Cruz--Crowd on the Wharf--House of Don
Dionisio V---o-- Guard of Honour--German

Piano--Supper--Madonna--Aspect of the City--
_Sopilotes_--Deliberations--General Guadalupe Victoria--Two-headed
Eagle-- Dilapidated Saint--Harp--Theatre--Doña Innocencia
Martinez--Invitation from General Santa Anna
LETTER THE FIFTH
Departure from Vera Cruz--Sandhills--Oriental Scene--Manga de
Clavo-- General Santa Anna--Breakfast--Escort and Diligence--Santa
Fe--Puente Nacional--Bridge sketched by Mrs. Ward--Country in
December--Don Miguel-- First Impressions--Fruit--Plan del
Rio--German Musicians--Sleeping Captain--Approach to
Jalapa--Appearance of the City--Cofre de Perote-- Flowers--House and
Rock--Last View of Jalapa--Change of Scenery--San Miguel de los
Soldados--Perote-Striking Scene before Day-break--Non- arrival of
Escort--Yankee Coachman Dispute--Departure--Company of Lancers
--Alcalde--Breakfast at La Ventilla--Pulque--Double Escort--Crosses--
Brigand-looking Tavern-keeper--Ojo de Agua-Arrival at Puebla-Dress
of the Peasants--Christmas-eve-Inn-"_Nacimiento_"
LETTER THE SIXTH
Departure from Puebla--Chirimoyas--Rio Frio--Indian Game--Black
Forest-- Valley of Mexico--Recollections of Tenochtitlan--Mexican
Officer-- Reception--Scenery--Variety of Dresses--Cheers--Storm of
Rain--Entry to Mexico--Buenavista--House by Daylight--Sights from
the Windows--Visits-- Mexican Etiquette--Countess C---a--Flowers in
December--Serenade-- Patriotic Hymn
LETTER THE SEVENTH
Début in Mexico--Cathedral--Temple of the
Aztecs--Congregation--Stone of Sacrifices--Palace--Importunate
Léperos--Visit to the President--Countess
C---a--Street-cries--Tortilleras--Sartor Resartus
LETTER THE EIGHTH
Ball in Preparation--Agreeable Family--Fine
Voices--Theatre--Smoking- Castle of Chapultepec--Viceroy
Galvez--Montezuma's Cypress--Vice-Queen-- Valley of Mexico--New
Year's Day--Opening of Congress--Visits from the Diplomatic
Corps--Poblana Dress--"Función extraordinaria"--Theatre--Visit to the
Cathedral of Guadalupe--Divine Painting--Bishop--Beggars--
Mosquitoes Eggs

LETTER THE NINTH
Visits from Spaniards--Visit from the President--Disquisition--Poblana
Dress--Bernardo the Matador--Bull-fight extraordinary--Plaza de
Toros-- Fireworks--Portrait of C---n--Fancy Ball--Dress-Costume of
the Patronesses--Beauty in Mexico--Doctor's Visit--Cards of _faire
part_-- Marquesa de San Roman--Toilet in Morning Visits of
Ceremony--Attempt at Robbery--Murder of a Consul--La Gúera
Rodriguez--Dr. Plan--M. de Humboldt --Anecdote--Former Customs
LETTER THE TENTH
San Fernando--House of Perez de Galvez--A Removal--Size of the
Houses--Old Monastery--View by Sunset--Evening Visits--Mexican
Etiquette--A Night-- view from the
Azotea-Tacubaya--Magueys--Making of Pulque--Organos and
Nopal--Environs of Mexico--Miracle--Hacienda--View from the
Countess C--- a's House--Arzobispado--Anecdote--Comparative View
of Beauty--Indians-- Rancheritas--Mexican Cordiality--Masses for the
Dead--San Agustin--Form of Invitation--Death of a Senator--A Mistake
LETTER THE ELEVENTH
Calle de Tacuba--The Leap of Alvarado--The "Noche Triste"--Sale of a
Curate's Goods--Padre Leon--Leprosy--Pictures--The
Annunciation--The Alameda--Paseo de Bucarelli--The Viga--Indians in
Canoes--A Murder--A Country Fête--Visit to the Colegia
Vizcaino--The Jota Arragonesa--Old Soldiers
LETTER THE TWELFTH
The Viga during the Carnival--Variety of Equipages--The
Millionaires--The Monks--Masked Ball--An Alarming Sight--Medical
Students--Dinner at the Prussian Minister's--Rides on
Horseback--Indian Love of Flowers--Santa Anita--The
Chinampas--Their Origin--Indians in Canoes--Song of "El
Palomo"--Fighting--The Great Lakes--The Drain of Huehuetoca--The
Great Market of Tlatelolco
LETTER THE THIRTEENTH
Convent of San Joaquin--Mexico in the Morning--Tacuba--Carmelite
Prior-- Convent Garden--Hacienda of Los Morales--El Olivar--A
_Huacamaya_-- Humming-birds--Correspondence--Expected
Consecration--Visit to the Mineria--Botanic Garden--Arbol de las
Manitas--The Museum--Equestrian Statue--Academy of Painting and

Sculpture--Disappointment
LETTER THE FOURTEENTH
Palm Sunday--Holy Thursday--Variety of Costumes--San
Francisco--Santa Domingo--Santa Teresa--Nuns--Stone Bust--The
Academy--Religious Procession--Pilgrimage to the Churches--Santa
Clara--Nun's Voice--Orange- trees and Rose-bushes--The Cathedral
Illuminated--Our Saviour in Chains-- Good Friday--The Great Square
towards Evening--Dresses of Men, Women, and Children--Approach of
the Host--Judas--Great Procession--_Miserere_--The Square by
Moonlight--A Lonely Walk--_Sabado de Gloria_--Ball in
Contemplation--Weekly Soirées--Embroidered Muslins--A Tertulia at
Home
LETTER THE FIFTEENTH
Letter from the Archbishop--Visit to the "_Encarnación_"--Reception--
Description--The Novices--Convent Supper--Picturesque
Scene--Sonata on the Organ--Attempt at Robbery--Alarms of the
Household--Visit to San Agustin-- Anonymous Letter--The Virgin _de
los Remedios_--Visit to the Chapel--The Padre--The Image--Anecdote
of the Large Pearl--A Mine
LETTER THE SIXTEENTH
Mexico in May--Leave Mexico for Santiago--Coach of Charles