Life in Mexico | Page 6

Santa Clara--A Philosopher--A Scorpion--Leave
Santa Clara--Dangerous _Barranca_--_Colon_--Agreeable
House--Civil _Administrador_--San Nicolas--Solitude--Franciscan
Friar-- Rainy Morning--Pink Turban--Arrival at
_Atlisco_--Cypress--Department of Puebla--Volcanoes--Doña
Marina--Verses--_Popocatepetl_--Cholula--Great Pyramid--Arrival at
Puebla
LETTER THE THIRTY-FIFTH
Theatre--Portmanteaus--Visitors--Houses of Puebla--Fine
Arts--Paseo--Don N. Ramos Arispe--Bishop--Cotton Factories--Don
Esteban Antunano--Bank of _Avio_--United States
Machinery--Accidents--Difficulties--Shipwrecks--
Detentions--Wonderful Perseverance--"_La Constancia Mejicana_"
Hospital-- Prison--El Carmen--Paintings--Painted
Floors--Angels--Cathedral--Gold and Jewels--A Comedy--Bishop's
Palace--Want of Masters
LETTER THE THIRTY-SIXTH
Concert--Diligence--Leave Puebla--Escort--View from the Cathedral
Towers-- Black Forest-History of the Crosses-Tales of Murder--An
Alarm--Report of a Skirmish--Rio Frio--Law Concerning
Robbers--Their _Moderation_-Return to Mexico--Carnival
Ball--Improvement in Dress
LETTER THE THIRTY-SEVENTH
Distinguished Men--Generals Bustamante, Santa Anna, and Victoria--
Anecdote--Señor Pedraza--Señor Gutierrez Estrada--Count
Cortina--Señor Gorostiza--Don Carlos Bustamante--"Mornings in the
Alameda"--Don Andrés Quintana Roo--Don Lucas Alaman--General
Moran--General Almonte--Señor Canedo--Señors Neri del Barrio and
Casaflores--Doctor Valentin--Don Francisco Tagle--Eight Revolutions
LETTER THE THIRTY-EIGHTH
New Minister--San Angel--Profitable Pulque Estate--The Village--

Surrounding Scenery--The Indians--The Padre--The Climate--Holy
Week in the Country--Dramatic Representations--Coyohuacan--The
Pharisees--Image of the Saviour--Music and
Dresses--Procession-Catholicism amongst the Indians-- Strange
Tradition--Paul the Fifth--Contrast between a Mexican and a New
England Village--Love of Fireworks--Ferdinand the Seventh--Military
Ball-- Drapeaux
LETTER THE THIRTY-NINTH
Holy Thursday at Coyohuacan--Hernan Cortes--His Last
Wishes--_Padres Camilas_-Old Church--Procession--Representation of
the Taking of Christ-- Curate's Sermon under the Trees--A Religious
Drama--Good Friday--Portable Pulpit--Heat--Booths--Religious
Procession--Simon the Cyrenian--Costumes-- Curate's Sermon--Second
Discourse--Sentence Pronounced by Pontius Pilate-- Descent from the
Cross--Procession of the Angels--Funeral Hymn--The Pesame to the
Virgin--Sermon--"Sweet Kitty Clover"--Music in Mexico-- Anecdote
LETTER THE FORTIETH
Balloon--San Bartolo--Indian Women--A Beauty--Different
Castes--Indians-- Their Character, etc.--Those of Noble Race--Ball at
the French Minister's --_Abecilla_--Danger of Walking
Unattended--Shooting Party--A Murder-- Robbery of a
Farmhouse--Discomfited Robber Captain--The "_Zambos_"-- Letters
and Visitors--Country Life in Mexico
LETTER THE FORTY-FIRST
Gambling--Fête at San Agustin--Breakfast at San
Antonio--Report--Cock- fight--Ladies--Private Gambling--A
_Vaca_--The _Calvario_--Bonnets-- Dinner--Evening Ball--Mingling
of Classes--Copper Tables--Dresses and Decorations--Indian Bankers,
Male and Female--Decorum--Habit--Holders of Banks--Female
Gambler--Robbery--Anecdote--Bet--_Casa de Moneda_--Leave San
Angel--Celebration--Address--Cross and Diploma--Reply--Presentation
of a Sword--Discourses and Addresses--Reflections
LETTER THE FORTY-SECOND
Italian Opera--Artists, Male and Female--Prima Donna--Lucia di
Lammermoor --Some Disappointment--Second
Representation--Improvement--Romeo and Giulietta--La Ricci--La
Señora Cesari--The Mint--False Coining--Repetition of

Lucia--Procession by Night--A Spanish Beauty--Discriminating
Audience-- A little _too simple_--Gold
Embroidery--Santiago--Pilgrims--Old Indian Custom--Soiree--Mexico
by Moonlight--Mysterious Figure--Archbishop-- Viceroy
LETTER THE FORTY-THIRD
Revillagigedo--The False Merchant and the Lady--The Viceroy, the
Unjust Spaniard, the Indian, and the Golden Ounces--Horrible
Murder--Details-- Oath--Country Family--The Spot of Blood--The
Mother Unknowingly Denounces her Son--Arrest of the
_Three_--Confession--Execution--The Viceroy fulfils his
Pledge--Paving of the Streets--Severity to the Monks--Solitary
Damsel--Box on the Ear--Pension--Morning Concert--New
Minister-"Street of the Sad Indian"--Traditions--A Farewell
Audience--Inscription on a Tomb
LETTER THE FORTY-FOURTH
Agitation--Storm--Revolution--Manifesto--Resembling a Game of
Chess-- Position of the Pieces--Appearance of the City--Firing--State of
Parties-- Comparisons--"_Comicios_"--The People--Congress--Santa
Anna--Amnesty Offered--Roaring of Cannon--Proclamation--Time to
_Look at Home_--The Will of the Nation--Different Feelings--Judge's
House Destroyed--The Mint in
Requisition--Preparations--Cannonading--"_Los Enanos_"
LETTER THE FORTY-FIFTH
Leave Mexico--Travelling Equipage--San Xavier--Fine Hacienda--
Millionaires--Well-educated Ladies--Garden, etc.--Tlanapantla--Indian
Hut --Mrs. Ward--Doña Margarita--The _Pronunciamiento_--False
Step--Santa Anna in Puebla--Neutrality--General Paredes--President in
Tlanapantla--Tired Troops--Their March--Their Return--Curate's
House--Murder--General Paredes in the Lecheria--President in
Tlanapantla--A Meeting--Return of the President and his
Troops--General Paredes and his Men--Santa Anna in Tacubaya--A
Junction--President in Mexico--_Allied Sovereigns_--Plan--
Articles--President declares for Federalism--Resigns--Results--
Hostilities--Capitulation--Triumphal Entry--_Te Deum_--New Ministry
LETTER THE FORTY-SIXTH
Santa Monica--Solidity--Old Paintings--Anachronism--Babies and
Nurses from the Cuna--Society--Funds-Plan--Indian Nurses--Carmelite

Convent--Midnight Warning--Old Villages and Churches--Indian
Bath--San Mateo--The Lecheria-- Fertility--_Molino
Viego_--Dulness--Religious Exercises--Return to Mexico --Mexican
Hotel--New Generals--Disturbances--General Bustamante--
Inconvenience--Abuses in the Name of Liberty--Verses--Independence
celebrated
LETTER THE FORTY-SEVENTH
Opera--Santa Anna and his Suite--His
Appearance--_Belisario_--Solitary "Viva!"--Brilliant House--Military
Dictatorship--San _Juan de Dios_-- Hospital _de Jesús_--_Cuna_--Old
Woman and Baby--Different Apartments-- Acordada--Junta--Female
Prisoners--Chief Crime--_Travaux Forces_-- Children--Male
Prisoners--_Forçats_--Soldiers Gambling--Chapel--
Confessional--Insane Hospital--Frenchmen--Different Kinds of
Insanity-- Kitchen--Dinner--Insane Monk--"Black
Chamber"--Soldiers--College--Santa Anna's Leg--Projects--All
Saints--Señora P---a--Leave-takings
LETTER THE FORTY-EIGHTH
Leave Mexico--Diligence--Indian Padre--Brandy-drinking
Female--Bad Roads-- Beautiful View--Escort--Good
Breakfast--Crosses--Robber's Head--Select Party--Lerma--Valley of
Toluca--Hacienda--Toluca--Count de B---- and Mr. W------The
Commandant--Gay Supper--Colonel Y------Day at Toluca--Journey to
_La Gabia_--Heat and Hunger--Pleasant Quarters--Princely Estate--El
Pilar--A Zorillo--A Wolf--Long Journey--Tortillas--Count de
B------State of Michoacán--Forest Scenery--_Trojes of
Angangueo_--Comfort
LETTER THE FORTY-NINTH
Leave _Trojes_--Beautiful Territory--Tarrascan Indians--Taximaroa--
Distressed Condition--An Improvement--Cold
Morning--Querendaro--Fine Breed of Horses--San
Bartolo--Produce--Country Proprietors--_Colear_--Ride to
Morelia--Wild Ducks--Sunset--Cathedral Bell--Cuincho--Curates
Morelos, Matamoros, and Hidalgo--Warm Baths--Handsome
Girls--Starving Travellers-- Lost Mules--Lancers--Night on a Heap of
Straw--Mules Found--Tzintzontzan-- King Calsonsi--Pascuaro--Kind
Reception--Bishop--Robbers--Curu--Night in a

Barn--Mountain--Uruapa--Enchanting Scenery--Pleasant
Family--Jorulla
LETTER THE FIFTIETH
Indian Dresses--Saints--Music--Union of Tropical and European
Vegetation-- Old Customs--Falls of the Sararaqui--Silkworms--Indian
Painting--Beautiful Heroine--Leave Uruapa--Tziracuaratiro--Talkative
Indian--Alcalde's House-- Pascuaro--Old Church--Mosaic Work--The
Lake--The Cave--Fried Fish--Rich
Indians--Convent--Cuincho--Darkness--Morelia--Alameda--Cathedral--
Silver --Waxworks--College--Wonderful Fleas
LETTER THE FIFTY-FIRST
San Bartolo--Mass--Markets--Rancheros--San
Andrés--Insanity--Rancho--House of Don Carlos Heimburger--Wild
Scenery--German Songs--Las Millas--Leave
taking--Storm--Rainbow--El Pilar--La Gabia--Toluca--News--Copper
_Pronunciamiento_--Return to Mexico--General Moran--Funeral
Obsequies--New Theatre--_Cock's Mass_--Santa Clara--Santa Fe
Prisoners--New Year
LETTER THE FIFTY-SECOND
Last Day in Mexico--Theatre--Santa Anna--French
Minister's--Parting-- Diligence--Last Look of
Mexico--Fatigue--Robbers--Escort--Second Impressions--Baths at
Jalapa--Vera Cruz--Some Account of San Juan de Ulua --Siege of
1825--Siege of 1838--General Bustamante--Theatre--Of the North
Winds
LETTER THE FIFTY-THIRD
Sail in the Tyrian--Norther off Tampico--The Bar--The River
Panuco--The Pilot--The Shore--Alligator--"_Paso de Doña
Cecilia_"--Tampico--Spanish Consul's
House--Society--Navigation--Banks of the Panuco--Extraordinary
Inoculation--The "_Glorieta_"--Leave Tampico--Furious
Norther--Voyage-- Arrival at Havana
LETTER THE FIFTY-FOURTH
Havana--The Carnival--The Elssler--La Angosta--Ingenio of Count
V---a-- General Bustamante--Lord Morpeth--Leave Havana--Voyage in
the Medway--Old Friends--Return to the United States

PREFACE
The present work is the result of observations made during a two years'