Sikkim -- Obtain permission to travel in East Nepal -- Arrangements -- Coolies -- Stores -- Servants -- Personal equipment -- Mode of travelling -- Leave Dorjiling -- Goong ridge -- Behaviour of Bhotan coolies -- Nepal frontier -- Myong valley -- Ilam -- Sikkim massacre -- Cultivation -- Nettles -- Camp at Nanki on Tonglo -- Bhotan coolies run away -- View of Chumulari -- Nepal peaks to west -- Sakkiazong -- Buceros -- Road to Wallanchoon -- Oaks -- Scarcity of water -- Singular view of mountain-valleys -- Encampment -- My tent and its furniture -- Evening occupations -- Dunkotah-Cross ridge of Sakkiazong -- Yews -- Silver-firs-View of Tambur valley -- Pemmi river -- Pebbly terraces -- Geology -- Holy springs -- Enormous trees -- Luculia gratissima -- Khawa river, rocks of -- Arrive at Tambur -- Shingle and gravel terraces -- Natives, indolence of -- Canoe ferry -- Votive offerings -- Bad road -- Temperature, etc. -- Chingtam village, view from -- Mywa river and Guola -- House -- Boulders -- Chain-bridge -- Meepo, arrival of -- Fevers.
CHAPTER IX.
Leave Mywa -- Suspension bridge -- Landslips -- Vegetation -- Slope of river-bed -- Bees' nests -- Glacial phenomena -- Tibetans, clothing, ornaments, amulets, salutation, children, dogs -- Last Limboo village, Taptiatok -- Beautiful scenery -- Tibet village of Lelyp -- _Opuntia -- Edgeworthia -- Crab-apple_ -- Chameleon and porcupine -- Praying-machine -- Abies Brunoniana -- European plants -- Grand scenery -- Arrive at Wallanchoon -- Scenery around -- Trees -- Tibet houses -- Manis and Mendongs -- Tibet household -- Food -- Tea-soup -- Hospitality -- Yaks and Zobo, uses and habits of -- Bhoteeas -- Yak-hair tents -- Guobah of Walloong -- Jatamansi -- Obstacles to proceeding-Climate and weather -- Proceed -- Rhododendrons, etc. -- Lichens -- Poa annua and Shepherd's purse -- Tibet camp -- Tuquoroma -- Scenery of pass -- Glaciers and snow -- Summit -- Plants, woolly, etc.
CHAPTER X.
Return from Wallanchoon pass -- Procure a bazaar at village -- Dance of Lamas -- Blackening face, Tibetan custom of -- Temple and convent -- Leave for Kanglachem pass -- Send part of party back to Dorjiling -- Yangma Guola -- Drunken Tibetans -- Guobah of Wallanchoon -- Camp at foot of Great Moraine -- View from top -- Geological speculations -- Height of moraines -- Cross dry lake-bed -- Glaciers -- More moraines -- Terraces -- Yangma temples -- Jos, books and furniture -- Peak of Nango -- Lake -- Arrive at village -- Cultivation -- Scenery -- Potatos -- State of my provisions -- Pass through village -- Gigantic boulders -- Terraces -- Wild sheep -- Lake-beds -- Sun's power -- Piles of gravel and detritus -- Glaciers and moraines -- Pabuk, elevation of -- Moonlight scene -- Return to Yangma -- Temperature, etc. -- Geological causes of phenomena in valley -- Scenery of valley on descent.
CHAPTER XI.
Ascend to Nango mountain -- Moraines -- Glaciers -- Vegetation -- Rhododendron Hodgsoni -- Rocks -- Honey-combed surface of snow -- Perpetual snow -- Top of pass -- View -- Elevation -- Geology -- Distance of sound -- Plants -- Temperature -- Scenery -- Cliffs of granite and hurled boulders -- Camp -- Descent -- Pheasants -- Larch -- Himalayan pines -- Distribution of Deodar, note on -- Tassichooding temples -- Kambachen village -- Cultivation -- Moraines in valley, distribution of -- Picturesque lake-beds, and their vegetation -- Tibetan sheep and goats -- Cryptogramma crispa -- Ascent to Choonjerma pass -- View of Junnoo -- Rocks of its summit -- Misty ocean -- Nepal peaks -- Top of pass -- Temperature, and observations -- Gorgeous sunset -- Descent to Yalloong valley -- Loose path -- Night scenes -- Musk deer.
CHAPTER XII.
Yalloong valley -- Find Kanglanamo pass closed -- Change route for the southward -- Picrorhiza -- View of Kubra -- Rhododendron Falconeri -- Yalloong river -- Junction of gneiss and clay-slate -- Cross Yalloong range -- Yiew -- Descent -- Yew -- Vegetation -- Misty weather -- Tongdam village -- Khabang -- Tropical vegetation -- Sidingbah mountain -- View of Kinchinjunga -- Yangyading village -- Slopes of hills, and courses of rivers -- Khabili valley -- Ghorkha Havildar's bad conduct -- Ascend Singalelah -- Plague of ticks -- Short commons -- Cross Islumbo pass -- Boundary of Sikkim -- Kulhait valley -- Lingcham -- Reception by Kajee -- Hear of Dr. Campbell's going to meet Rajah -- Views in valley -- Leave for Teesta river -- Tipsy Kajee -- Hospitality -- Murwa beer -- Temples -- Acorus Calamus -- Long Mendong -- Burning of dead -- Superstitions -- Cross Great Rungeet -- Boulders, origin of -- Purchase of a dog -- Marshes -- Lamas -- Dismiss Ghorkhas -- Bhoteea house -- Murwa beer.
CHAPTER XIII.
Raklang pass -- Uses
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