Pages 203-217
CHAPTER XII
The Tarahumares Still Afraid of Me--Don Andres Madrid to the Rescue--Mexican Robbers Among the Tarahumares--Mode of Burial in Ancient Caves--Visit to Nonoava--The Indians Change their Minds about Me, and Regard Me as a Rain-god--What the Tarahumares Eat--A Pretty Church in the Wilderness--I Find at Last a Reliable Interpreter and Proceed to Live à l'Indienne, Pages 218-234
CHAPTER XIII
The Tarahumare Physique--Bodily Movements--Not as Sensitive to Pain as White Men--Their Phenomenal Endurance--Health--Honesty--Dexterity and Ingenuity--Good Observers of the Celestial Bodies and Weather-forecasters--Hunting and Shooting--Home Industries--Tesvino, the Great National Drink of the Tribe--Other Alcoholic Drinks, Pages 235-257
CHAPTER XIV
Politeness, and the Demands of Etiquette--The Daily Life of the Tarahumare--The Woman's Position is High--Standard of Beauty--Women Do the Courting--Love's Young Dream--Marriage Ceremonies, Primitive and Civilised--Childbirth--Childhood, Pages 258-275
CHAPTER XV
Many Kinds of Games Among the Tarahumares--Betting and Gambling--Foot-races the National Sport--The Tarahumares are the Greatest Runners in the World--Divinations for the Race--Mountains of Betting Stakes--Women's Races, Pages 276-294
CHAPTER XVI
Religion--Mother Moon Becomes the Virgin Mary--Myths--The Creation--The Deluge--Folk-lore--The Crow's Story to the Parrot--Brother Coyote--Beliefs about Animals, Pages 295-310
CHAPTER XVII
The Shamans or Wise Men of the Tribe--Healers and Priests in One--Disease Caused by Looks and Thoughts--Everybody and Everything has to be Cured--Nobody Feels Well without His "Doctor"--Sorcery--The Powers of Evil are as Great as those of Good--Remarkable Cure for Snake-bite--Trepanning Among the Ancient Tarahumares, Pages 311-329
CHAPTER XVIII
Relation of Man to Nature--Dancing as a Form of Worship Learned from the Animals--Tarahumare Sacrifices--The Rutuburi Dance Taught by the Turkey--The Yumari Learned from the Deer--Tarahumare Rain Songs--Greeting the Sun--Tarahumare Oratory--The Flowing Bowl--The National Importance of Tesvino--Homeward Bound, Pages 330-355
CHAPTER XIX
Plant-worship--Hikuli--Internal and External Effects--Hikuli both Man and God--How the Tarahumares Obtain the Plant, and where They Keep It--The Tarahumare Hikuli Feast--Musical Instruments--Hikuli Likes Noise--The Dance--Hikuli's Departure in the Morning--Other Kinds of Cacti Worshipped--"Doctor" Rubio, the Great Hikuli Expert--The Age of Hikuli Worship, Pages 356-379
CHAPTER XX
The Tarahumare's Firm Belief in a Future Life--Causes of Death--The Dead are Mischievous and Want Their Families to Join Them--Therefore the Dead Have to be Kept Away by Fair Means or Foul--Three Feasts and a Chase--Burial Customs--A Funeral Sermon, Pages 380-390
CHAPTER XXI
Three Weeks on Foot Through the Barranca--Rio Fuerte--I Get My Camera Wet--Ancient Cave-dwellings Ascribed to the Tubar Indians--The Effect of a Compliment--Various Devices for Catching Fish--Poisoning the Water--A Blanket Seine, Pages 391-407
CHAPTER XXII
Resumption of the Journey Southward--_Pinus Lumholtzii_--Cooking with Snow--Terror-stricken Indians--A Gentlemanly Highwayman and His "Shooting-box"--The Pernicious Effect of Civilisation Upon the Tarahumares--A Fine Specimen of the Tribe--The Last of the Tarahumares, Pages 408-421
CHAPTER XXIII
Cerro de Muinora, the Highest Mountain in Chihuahua--The Northern Tepehuanes--Troubles Cropping Out of the Camera--Sinister Designs on Mexico Attributed to the Author--Maizillo--Foot-races Among the Tepehuanes--Influence of the Mexicans Upon the Tepehunaes, and _Vice Versa_--Profitable Liquor Traffic--Medicine Lodges--Cucuduri, the Master of the Woods--Myth of the Pleiades, Pages 422-436
CHAPTER XXIV
On to Morelos--Wild and Broken Country--The Enormous Flower-spike of the Amole--Subtropical Vegetation of Northwestern Mexico--Destructive Ants--The Last of the Tubars--A Spectral Ride--Back to the United States--An Awful Thunder-storm--Close Quarters--Zape--Antiquities--When an "Angel" Dies--Mementos of a Reign of Terror--The Great Tepehuane Revolution of 1616--The Fertile Plains of Durango, Pages 437-450
CHAPTER XXV
Winter in the High Sierra--Mines--Pueblo Nuevo and Its Amiable Padre--A Ball in My Honour--_Sancta Simplicitas_--A Fatiguing Journey to the Pueblo of Lajas and the Southern Tepehuanes--Don't Travel After Nightfall!--Five Days Spent in Persuading People to Pose Before the Camera--The Regime of Old Missionary Times--Strangers Carefully Excluded--Everybody Contemplating Marriage is Arrested--Shocking Punishments for Making Love--Bad Effects of the Severity of the Laws, Pages 451-470
CHAPTER XXVI
Pueblo Viejo--Three Languages Spoken Here--The Aztecs--The Musical Bow--Theories of Its Origin--Dancing Mitote--Fasting and Abstinence--Helping President Diaz--The Importance of Tribal Restrictions--Principles of Monogamy--Disposition of the Dead, Pages 471-483
CHAPTER XXVII
Inexperienced Help--How to Acquire Riches from the Mountains--Sierra del Nayarit--The Coras--Their Aversion to "Papers"--Their Part in Mexican Politics--A Déjeuner à la Fourchette--La Danza, Pages 484-495
CHAPTER XXVIII
A Glimpse of the Pacific from the High Sierra--A Visionary Idyl--The Coras Do Not Know Fear--An Un-Indian Indian--Pueblo of Jesus Maria--A Nice Old Cora Shaman--A Padre Denounces Me as a Protestant Missionary--Trouble Ensuing from His Mistake--Scorpions, Pages 496-507
CHAPTER XXIX
A Cordial Reception at San Francisco--Mexicans in the Employ of Indians --The Morning Star, the Great God of the Coras--The Beginning of the World--How the Rain-clouds were First Secured--The Rabbit and the Deer--Aphorisms of a Cora Shaman--An Eventful Night--Hunting for Skulls--My Progress Impeded by Padre's Ban--Final Start for the Huichol Country--A Threatened Desertion, Pages 508-530
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Portrait of the Author Frontispiece A Dasylirion, 1 Cottonwood, 4 Cereus Greggii, a small cactus with enormous root, 5 Fronteras, 7 Remarkable Ant-hill, 8 Church Bells at Opoto, 10 Also a Visitor, 11 A Mexican from Opoto, 12 Rock-carvings near Granados, 15 The Church in Bacadehuachi, 17 Aztec Vase, Found in the Church of Bacadehuachi, 18 Agave Hartmani, a new species of century plant, 19 Ancient Pecking on a Trachyte Boulder one foot square, 20 In the Hills of Northeastern Sonora, 24 Adios, Se?or! 27 View toward the Northwest from Sierra
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