Travels through the Empire of Morocco | Page 9

very commodious for
shipping,
The harbour contains a portion of the Emperor's maritime force, which
consists of four frigates, a brig, and a sloop of war, in very tolerable
condition. This little fleet is commanded by an admiral, and sails every
year in the month of May; when it cruizes about during the summer,
picking up a few straggling vessels, and returns here to winter; in
which time the sailors are twice a week exercised at the great guns.
This town is now entirely occupied by soldiers and sailors, and their
respective families. It did contain about two thousand Jews, whose
business it was to purchase hides, wool, and wax, for several
commercial houses established at Tetuan; but these poor people were
obliged to leave this garrison, and take refuge in the neighbouring
mountains, from a sudden and irrevocable decree of the Emperor, on
account of their having sold some aguardiente to the sailors, which
occasioned a great fight, that was attended with the loss of three Moors.
I have just received intelligence of the death of Mr. Matra; I am
extremely sorry for this event, as, in him, we have lost a very powerful
advocate at the court of Morocco: but it is no more than I expected,
from the state in which I left him at Tangiers.

LETTER IV.
Excursion to Mamora, and thence to Salee--Friendly Reception by the
Governor of the latter--Rabat--Tower of Hassen--Shella--

Mansooria--Alcasser-- Quiber--Its Socco, or Marketplace.
Larache, 1805.
To escape from the importunities of those poor creatures who
continued to pester me for medicines with which I could not supply
them, I availed myself of the convalescent state of the Governor, and
obtained his permission to make a short excursion to the nearest seaport
towns on the western coast. Escorted as before, I directed my way
towards Mamora, a fortress about sixty miles off.
I halted frequently to observe the face of, the country, and could not
forbear lamenting the little knowledge I possess in the art of drawing;
indeed, I never had more reason to regret having neglected it than now,
as it would have enabled me to present you with some very interesting
views, to which my pen cannot do justice.
The beautiful intermixture of lakes, forests, and green vallies, forming
most delightful landscapes, brought to my recollection those scenes I
have so often contemplated, in my youthful days, on the borders of
Switzerland. The lakes abound with all kinds of water-fowls, and fine
eels; and are surrounded by villages, sanctuaries, and holy houses; the
latter occupied by the descendants of the ancient Maraboots, who are
held in the highest veneration by the Moors, and whose habitations are
considered as sacred asylums, which are never violated, either by the
civil or military power.
We ascended an eminence, upon which stands one of their most
celebrated sanctuaries, built in the form of a pavilion, with four arched
folding-doors, in the Gothic style, covered with varnished tiles of
various colours, and embellished with curious Arabic characters. I was
eagerly approaching, at the head of my little party, to gratify my
curiosity, when a shower of stones, from the holy inhabitants of the
neighbouring huts and tents, compelled me to desist; and after a retreat
of one hundred yards, I sat down to refresh myself undisturbed.
From this hill, however, I had a better opportunity of surveying the
beauties of the adjacent lands, which are very productive; and also to
observe the windings of the river Seboo, which, taking its source in the
neighbourhood of Fez, forms a junction with the river Beth, and falls
into the Atlantic Ocean.
After journeying about a league, we crossed this river in a ferry-boat,
and in a short time reached the fort of Mamora, which lies about two

miles to the south of the river. This fort, after having been demolished
by the Moors, was rebuilt by the Spaniards in 1604, and taken by
Muley Ishmael in 1681. It is commanded by an Alcaid, and inhabited
by about forty or fifty families, who gain a livelihood by fishing for
shads and eels; with which they supply the adjoining country during the
winter season.
We rested at this place, and feasted upon fried eels, which I found equal
to those caught in the Thames. From Mamora we proceeded to Salee
another maritime town, situated in the province of _Ben-hassen_, and
at the mouth of the river Salee, which is formed by the junction of two
small rivers. The Governor of that place being an intimate friend of my
patient, I was most kindly and hospitably received by him; and
elegantly entertained in one of his gardens, which are well laid out, and
ornamented with several fountains playing into marble basins, as well
as by several delightful streams of water.
Salee