Travels through the Empire of Morocco | Page 8

Excellency had been attended, for some
days past, by a celebrated tweeb, who stood high in the public
estimation; that he had pronounced the Governor's disease incurable,
and he had, bled him so copiously, and so repeatedly, that "I verily
believe," added the Secretary, "he has not a single drop of blood left in
his veins; I would therefore advise you to administer some good
cordials, and also some nourishment, to restore his lost vigour." By this
time we had reached the castle. I found the Governor in a situation truly
deplorable. He had been bled, as the Secretary described, ad deliquium,
and reduced so low, that it was with great difficulty I could hear what
he was desirous of explaining to me.
His body was covered all over with purple spots, and had every
concomitant symptom of the blood approaching to a putrescent
dissolution, I afforded him all the assistance in my power the same
evening; and early the next morning, when I visited him, I found him
somewhat easier; the next day better; and thus progressively mending;
till yesterday he was sufficiently recovered to venture on horseback,
and I trust he will, ultimately, be perfectly restored to health and spirits.
He is about forty years of age, of a genteel appearance, exceedingly
well informed, and reputed to be the most sensible officer in His

Imperial Majesty's service, perfectly, au fait in the intrigues and politics
of the Cabinet of St. Cloud, and other nations, He has always been, and
is still, a very steady friend to the English,
During my stay here so many poor wretches applied for advice and
medical assistance, that I have completely exhausted my stock of
medicines, and I am, in consequence of this, obliged to decline the
Emperor's invitation to his court. I shall return to Gibraltar for a supply,
and shall then pay him a visit at Fez.
Larache is supposed to be the famous Lixus, or Lixos, of the ancients,
and, consequently, was in great reputation in the earliest ages, Pliny
asserts, that the giant Antaeus occasionally resided here; and further
adds, that Hercules vanquished him in this neighbourhood, as he
supposes the gardens of the Hesperides to have been not far off. This I
think very probable, as the Arabic name of this town is El Arais,
signifying a place abounding in gardens; which is still the case. The
vicinity of it is, indeed, rendered extremely delightful by the number of
gardens. Pliny also makes the river Lixos (upon the banks of which the
town stood), by its winding course, to resemble a serpent, or dragon,
from which he intimates that this river gave rise to the fable of the
Dragon guarding the golden apples of the Hesperides. Be that as it may,
the situation of the present Larache gives great probability to the
supposition of its being the reputed Lixus of the ancients. The learned
Aldrete affirms the word Lixos be derived from Lachisu, or Nahara
Lachisu, signifying enchantment, or the enchanted river. He observes,
that the town of Lixos was situated near the banks of a river of the same
name; and that the inhabitants of this country were supposed to possess
uncommon skill in sorcery and magic.
Many wonderful things have been related of Antaeus, by various
authors, in his two residences of Tingis and Lixos. Pliny mentions a
Roman colony having been settled here by _Claudius_; and I should
judge this statement to be perfectly correct, from the number of Roman
ruins observable in and near the town. It was in the possession of the
Spaniards in 1610, but was retaken by the Moors before the
commencement of the eighteenth century.
It is surrounded by good bastions and other works; some of which were
constructed by the Spaniards, and the rest by the Moors. It is
encompassed by deep trenches, with sluices to fill them with water

from the river, The streets of this town are narrow and dirty, paved with
large irregular stones, and consisting of abrupt ascents and descents,
which render them unsafe to pass through on horseback.
Near the castle, at the extremity of the cape, facing the Atlantic, is an
oblong square, surrounded by a piazza, supported by colonnades, where
the shops of the merchants are situated, and where the market also is
held. The cattle-market is kept in an extensive plain, to which you pass
through a crooked way, out of the western gate. Thursday is the
market-day.
Fresh water is extremely scarce, and the inhabitants are sometimes
greatly distressed for want of it. Larache is a seat of government, and
contains a spacious inland harbour; but the entrance is dangerous from
the badness of its bar, which might, however, be removed with little
trouble and expense, so as to render the harbour