Three Months of My Life | Page 5

the dawn
and after a mile's tramp began the ascent of the Doabbuller pass, three

and a half miles long and very steep, so steep that I could often touch
the ground with my hands without stooping much. This was terribly
exhausting and I had to make many halts to recover my breath. Then
began a rough descent along the side of a mountain torrent and
afterwards over its bed, which is a narrow gorge between high hills.
This walking was very rough and difficult; the path being covered with
great stones and often undistinguishable. Indeed it was no path at all,
only the ground occasionally a little trodden. Through the stream,
backwards and forwards innumerable times we went. I found that my
feet, though naked except where covered by the straps of the sandals,
were able to take care of themselves, and avoid contusion almost
without the help of my eyes. Then I came to a large and rapid river
called the Kishun-gunga crossed by a rope bridge. Let me describe the
bridge. Three or four leather ropes about one inch in diameter tied into
a bundle to walk upon, three feet above this, a couple of ropes, two feet
apart, the upper ropes connected to the lower one at intervals of four or
five yards by stakes. This formed a V shape, and you walk on the point
of the V and hold on by the two sides. The breadth of the river is sixty
yards, and the bridge which is high above the water forms a
considerable curve. The description of the bridge is easy enough, but
how shall I describe my feelings, when I had gone a few yards and
found myself poised in mid-air like a spider on a web, oscillating,
swaying backwards and forwards over a foaming and roaring torrent,
the rush of the water if I looked at my feet, made me feel as if I was
being violently carried in the opposite direction; the bridge swayed and
jumped with the weight of half a dozen natives coming from the
opposite side whom I had to pass, the whole thing seemed so weak and
the danger so terrible that I turned giddy, lost my head, and cried out to
be held. A firm hand at once grasped me behind and another in front. I
shut my eyes and so proceeded a few yards. Then those dreadful men
had to be passed. Imagine meeting a man on a rope fifty feet above a
torrent and requiring him to "give you the wall." However they were
passed by a mysterious interlacing of feet; and when half way over I
regained confidence, and bid the men "chando" or release me, and so
gained the opposite bank, where I sat down and roared with laughter at
my "boy" who was then coming over, and who evidently was much
more affected than I was. However he arrived safely with his black face

pale, dripping with perspiration and saying he was sick. What was most
amusing was to see him hooking his legs one in front of the other on
his way over, but I dare say I was equally laughable to anyone on terra
firma. He told me afterwards "water all go down, and I go up and get
sick and giddy." Another two miles over a low ridge and I got to
Mozufferabad and put up at the Barahduree provided by the Maharajah
for the convenience of English travellers free of charge, for we are now
in Kashmerian territory. This is an unfurnished bungalow built of mud
and pine logs, and there is one at every stage. This saves the trouble of
pitching a tent, and is of course much better in wet weather. I have not
had a drop of rain though yet. Met Watson, of Fane's Horse, at the
bungalow going back to Peshawur. Got Incis's Guide from him for the
day, and made some notes at the other end of this book. There is a
picturesque fort on this bank of the river commanding the bridge, built
by the Pathans, apparently of bright red stone or brick. It was
interesting to see mules and ponies swimming across the stream.
Holding on by the tail of each was a man supported by two inflated
Mussaks or goat skins which are ordinarily used by the Bheisties for
carrying water. Though both man and horse struck out vigorously they
were carried down many hundred yards before reaching the opposite
side. To look at them in the foam and rush of the river, and see their
impetuous career down the current, they appeared to be doomed to
certain destruction. I saw about twenty cross in this way. I walked the
whole of this march, though often tired, as I preferred