Three Months of My Life | Page 4

two routes open to me, he advises the one which
yesterday I was warned against by the other fellows. They have been
over both roads, yet do not agree as to which is the best. Ellis was
disappointed with Kashmir, but he has only been a few months in India,
and has not yet forgotten England, for I expect that Kashmir after all, is
only so very pleasant, by contrast with the plains of India.
JULY 9th.--Started an hour before sunrise and did the whole march to
Ghuri, distance nineteen miles. Walked the greater part of the way in
sandals and socks, which I find the most comfortable way of getting on.
First half of the march along the level to the foot of the hill, then an
undulating road through a pine forest, the latter half easy walking
owing to the ground being covered with fallen fir leaves which made it
as soft as a carpet. A fine view from the top of hill, looking down to
Ghuri. The river Ghuri, a mountain torrent seen for a long distance
rushing with a great roar over its rocky bed, bounded on each side by
high hills, and above by mountains covered with snow, from the
melting of which it arises. The water is consequently icy cold, and my
tub at the end of the march was highly invigorating. Put up at the Dâk
Bungalow, a neat, clean, furnished building, standing on the right bank
of the river, which is crossed just in front by a very fair suspension
bridge. I can trace my route for to-morrow, for several miles, and I look
at it with dismay as it ascends a terribly steep hill. There are two other
men in the Bungalow, but I do not know who they are. I have not
mentioned my equipment. It is so simple that a few lines will tell all.
Two suits of old clothes, three flannel shirts, two warm under flannels,
two pair of boots, "a light pair and a heavy pair of ammunitions," socks,
handkerchiefs, &c., Mackintosh, warm bedding, a small tent called a

"shildaree," a two-rolled ridge tent, about eight feet square, a dressing
bag containing toilet requisites, a metal basin, salted tongues and
humps, potatoes, tea, sugar, flour, mustard, &c., one bottle of brandy,
to be reserved for medicinal use, a portable charpoy or bedstead, cane
stool, a little crockery, knives and forks, cooking utensils, brass
drinking cup for every purpose, a gingham umbrella with white cover, a
dandy (previously described), solar topee, and light cap, tobacco, soap,
and candles, a kookery, a stout alpen stock, a pass into Kashmir, and
bag of money, and "voilà tout." For carrying this baggage, I require two
mules, and two Coolies, or when mules are not procurable, seven
Coolies. Four other Coolies man my dandy, and these men are going all
the way with me. Each Coolie receives four annas, or sixpence a day,
and a mule costs eight annas. Stopped under a "pepel tree" and sent
some Coolies up it for the fruit, which was ripe. This tree is the Indian
fig, and the fruit is very small, not larger than marbles; and without
much flavor. The river is running a few yards from me, with a sound as
of the surf on a rocky beach. I hope ere long to hear the same pleasant
music seated on the cliffs of the south coast of Guernsey. Now my time
in India is drawing to a close, I begin to think that it has not been
altogether wasted, though I would not prolong it a day. All I have seen
and done within a period of three years (so much falls to the lot of few
men to perform) must have had some effect upon my mind; at any rate,
when safe at home again, I shall have much to talk of, many
experiences to relate. My dog Silly who accompanies me, was awfully
done up towards the end of the march. At last we came to a running
stream in which he laid down and was much refreshed, before that his
panting had become gasping though he kept up with us bravely, only
lying down for a moment when we came to a little bit of shade--not
often met with, the last three or four miles. For the last day or two, I
have been almost continually in a cool, gentle perspiration, this is a
great contrast to my state when at Peshawur, where my skin was always
as dry as a bone, and I look upon that as a healthy symptom, I have had
no headache since I left Bugnostan.
JULY 10th.--To Mozufferabad nine miles, but apparently much more,
such a bad fatiguing march. I got away with the first grey of