Theory of Silk Weaving | Page 7

running in the direction of the filling. The rules given in the previous chapter as to the joining of the weaves will also apply here. The warp which was raised on the last pick of the weave must stay down wherever possible on the first pick of the following weave. The number of shafts employed must go up evenly in the repeat of each one of the weaves that go into the make up of the bayadère.
#Bayadère#
A stripe of 24 picks Gros de Tours } } on 8 shafts straight through. " 8 " 8-shaft Satin, }
[Illustration: Fig. 85]
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[Page 64] #Bayadère#
A stripe of 18 picks 6-shaft Satin } " 6 " Serge 5-1, } on 6 shafts, straight draw. " 4 " Taffeta, }
[Illustration: Fig. 86]
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[Page 65] CHECKS AND PLAIDS
If pekin and bayadère stripes are combined, we obtain checked fabrics, and of these an endless variety and pleasing effects can be produced with the aid of suitable color combinations.
#Check#
of 16 threads and 12 picks of the 4 end broken twill, and 16 " " 12 " " Royale of 8 threads, drawn on 4 sections of 4 shafts each.
[Illustration: Fig. 87]
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[Page 66] #Check#
of 20 threads and 16 picks of 8-shaft Satin, " 20 " " 16 " " Taffeta, 4 " " Surah 3-1, drawn on 2 sections of 8 shafts each.
[Illustration: Fig. 88]
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[Page 67] DECOMPOSITION
Under the name of Disposition we comprise all those points and details which we must ascertain before we can proceed with the construction of a fabric. They are:
1. #The weave.#
2. #Length and width of the cloth.#
3. #The stock and the dyeing thereof.#
4. #Reed calculation# (number of dents and ends per inch and total number of dents required).
5. #Drawing-in the warp in harness and reed.#
6. #Texture and arrangement of warp# (warping ticket)
7. #Arrangement of harness.#
8. #Reduction of filling.#
9. #Calculation of warp and filling.#
10. #Finishing.#
11. #Calculation of cost.#
[Page 68] 1. THE WEAVE
If a given sample is to be reproduced or imitated, it must be analyzed, and the following hints will greatly facilitate this operation to the beginner.
Cut the sample straight on two sides, and draw out a number of warp and filling threads until there is a small fringe of perhaps ? of an inch. This will allow a thread to be raised a little for examination, without danger of its falling out of the fabric. In most cases it is easier to dissect the filling side, that is, the interlacing of each warp-thread in the threads of the filling system. With the help of the microscope or counting glass we can easily determine over and under how many picks that thread passes and the points of interlacing are accordingly marked on designing paper. This being done for at least the length of a repeat warpways, we take it out and examine the following thread, and so on until the repeat filling-ways is complete. It is advisable to ascertain how many picks ahead or back of the first examined thread the next following one binds before taking the former out.
A knowledge of the construction of weaves as explained in the foregoing chapters will enable us to determine the weave of a simple pattern by merely raising a warp-thread with a needle on any point of interlacing and counting off how many picks apart from this place it makes an impression.
2. LENGTH AND WIDTH OF THE FABRIC
To the length and width which the finished product is to have, we must add a certain allowance for shrinkage and taking up of warp during weaving. It may differ from one to ten per cent., according to the texture and weave of the fabric, and can be ascertained with sufficient accuracy by stretching out and measuring a thread of warp and filling and comparing their length with the respective measurements of the sample to be reproduced.
[Page 69] 3. THE STOCK AND ITS DYE
Under this heading we must give the particulars as to nature, _twist_, quality and size of the silk, and the directions for the dyeing, whether bright or _souple_, and in what colors, also whether to be weighted or not.
The size is generally ascertained (in practical work) by comparing it with other silk of which the exact count is known. Another method is to count the number of cocoon threads which a thread of the sample contains, adding to that 1/3 or ?, according to the quality of the silk; the result will be the count in deniers. To obtain it in drams, divide the latter number by 17,3 as 1 dram is equal to 17,3 deniers.
Suppose we find 20 cocoon ends in a thread of silk: add 1/3, and we have 26-2/3 deniers, which, divided by 17,3 make 1,54 drams.
As silk is always more or