Theory of Silk Weaving | Page 6

threads must come from a separate warp, which is introduced to embellish the ground or taffeta part of the fabric.
The floating threads can either stitch all on one pick and so form a continuous cut line, or be divided in groups, of which one will bind in the middle of the floats of the other group. The following designs show both the face and backside of the respective weaves:
[Page 50] Alternating Cannele of 6 picks.
On 4 shafts, straight through.
[Illustration: Fig. 66]
* * * *
Canelle (2 beams). Over 3 picks, interlacing on every fourth pick, drawn end and end on 2 sections of 4 shafts each.
[Illustration: Fig. 67]
* * * *
[Page 51] Cannele over 5 picks, binding on the sixth, but every second thread advanced 3 picks (to the middle of the float of the first thread), drawn end and end on 2 sections of 4 shafts each.
[Illustration: Fig. 68]
* * * *
[Page 52] Cannele arranged in groups of 8 threads, floating over 6 picks and binding on the seventh and eighth, drawn on 2 sections, with 4 shafts in first and 2 in second section.
[Illustration: Fig. 69]
* * * *
Repp on 8 shafts straight through. Rotation of filling. 1 pick taffeta, 1 pick float (rib).
[Illustration: Fig. 70]
* * * *
[Page 53] Repp of 8 threads, on 2 sections of 4 shafts each, 8 ends per section.
[Illustration: Fig. 71]
* * * *
Repp of 5 threads, binding on the sixth; every second pick binds on the middle of the first pick. On 6 harness straight draw.
[Illustration: Fig. 72]
* * * *
[Page 54] Repp in groups, floating over 6 ends and binding on the seventh and eighth on 8 shafts straight draw.
[Illustration: Fig. 73]
* * * * *
[Page 55] DOUBLE FACED FABRICS
In this class we find either two systems of warp or of filling so combined that only one will be visible on either side. The color on one side is generally different from the other, and so may the interlacing be of a different nature on face and back. In the latter case great care must be exercised not to allow the weave on one side to disturb the one on the other, and as a rule the points of interlacing of the first warp or filling system are placed as much as possible in the middle of the floats of the second. This will prevent either color or weave to be seen on the opposite side, as the floats of one side will naturally lay themselves over the binders of the other. The number of ends in a repeat of the two weaves must either be alike or one a multiple of the other.
Warp Effects
Levantine on 8 shafts straight draw.
[Illustration: Fig. 74]
* * * *
[Page 56] Serge 6-2 on 2 sections of 8 shafts each.
[Illustration: Fig. 75]
* * * *
8 shaft satin on 2 sections of 8 harness each.
[Illustration: Fig. 76]
* * * *
[Page 57] 12 shaft satin on 2 sections of 12 shafts each.
[Illustration: Fig. 77]
* * * *
Cannele of 8 picks on 2 sections of 4 shafts each.
[Illustration: Fig. 78]
* * * * *
[Page 58] FILLING EFFECTS
Serge 5-1 on 6 harness straight draw.
[Illustration: Fig. 79]
* * * *
10 harness satin on 10 shafts skip draw.
[Illustration: Fig. 80]
* * * *
[Page 59] Repp on 2 sections of 4 shafts each, 8 threads per section.
[Illustration: Fig. 81]
* * * *
[Page 60] PEKINS
With this name we designate fabrics in which stripes of a different interlacing run in the direction of the warp. In combining these weaves it is advantageous to have them contrast distinctly, for instance, a short weave such as taffeta or Gros de Tours, with a longer and looser one such as satin, sergé or cannele, also changes from warp to filling effects. Care must be taken to arrange the joining of the two weaves so that the last thread of one weave will cross the first thread of the other. This will prevent the threads from either stripe to slide over into the other, and so make a clean cut line.
#Pekin.# A stripe of
2 dents of 8 ends each, 8 shaft Satin, on 8 shafts straight draw. 12 " 2 " Taffeta " 4 " " "
[Illustration: Fig. 82]
* * * *
[Page 61] #Pekin#. A stripe of
12 ends Cannele of 6 picks on 1st section of 4 shafts. 12 " Repp " 6 threads on 2d and 3d section of 2 shafts each.
[Illustration: Fig. 83]
* * * *
[Page 62] #Pekin.# A stripe of
10 ends 5 leaf Satin on the 1st section of 5 shafts straight draw. 4 " Taffeta " 3d " 2 " " " 18 " Serge 3-1, 1-1 " 2d " 6 " " "
[Illustration: Fig. 84]
* * * * *
[Page 63] BAYADèRES
While pekins are formed by warp stripes, bayadère shows us stripes of different weaves