The Whitehouse Cookbook (1887) | Page 8

sauces. It is, therefore, essential to the success of these
culinary operations to know the most complete and economical method
of extracting from a certain quantity of meat the best possible stock or
broth. Fresh, uncooked beef makes the best stock, with the addition of
cracked bones, as the glutinous matter contained in them renders it
important that they should be boiled with the meat, which adds to the
strength and thickness of the soup. They are composed of an earthy
substance--to which they owe their solidity--of gelatine, and a fatty
fluid, something like marrow. Two ounces of them contain as much
gelatine as one pound of meat; but, in them, this is so encased in the
earthy substance, that boiling water can dissolve only the surface of the
whole bones, but by breaking them they can be dissolved more. When
there is an abundance of it, it causes the stock, when cold, to become a
jelly. The flesh of old animals contains more flavor than the flesh of
young ones. Brown meats contain more flavor than white.
Mutton is too strong in flavor for good stock, while veal, although quite
glutinous, furnishes very little nutriment.

Some cooks use meat that has once been cooked; this renders little
nourishment and destroys the flavor. It might answer for ready soup,
but for stock to keep it is not as good, unless it should be roasted meats.
Those contain higher fragrant properties; so by putting the remains of
roast meats in the stock-pot you obtain a better flavor.
The shin bone is generally used, but the neck or "sticking-piece," as the
butchers call it, contains more of the substance that you want to extract,
makes a stronger and more nutritious soup, than any other part of the
animal. Meats for soup should always be put on to cook in cold water,
in a covered pot, and allowed to simmer slowly for several hours, in
order that the essence of the meat may be drawn out thoroughly, and
should be carefully skimmed to prevent it from becoming turbid, never
allowed to boil fast at any time, and if more water is needed, use
boiling water from the tea-kettle; cold or lukewarm water spoils the
flavor. Never salt it before the meat is tender (as that hardens and
toughens the meat), especially if the meat is to be eaten. Take off every
particle of scum as it rises, and before the vegetables are put in.
Allow a little less than a quart of water to a pound of meat and bone,
and a teaspoonful of salt. When done, strain through a colander. If for
clear soups, strain again through a hair sieve, or fold a clean towel in a
colander set over an earthen bowl, or any dish large enough to hold the
stock. As stated before, stock is not as good when made entirely from
cooked meats, but in a family where it requires a large joint roasted
every day, the bones, and bits and underdone pieces of beef, or the
bony structure of turkey or chicken that has been left from carving,
bones of roasted poultry, these all assist in imparting a rich dark color
to soup, and would be sufficient, if stewed as above, to furnish a family,
without buying fresh meat for the purpose; still, with the addition of a
little fresh meat it would be more nutritious. In cold weather you can
gather them up for several days and put them to cook in cold water, and
when done, strain, and put aside until needed.
Soup will be as good the second day as the first if heated to the boiling
point. It should never be left in the pot, but should be turned into a dish
or shallow pan, and set aside to get cold. Never cover it up, as that will

cause it to turn sour very quickly.
Before heating a second time, remove all the fat from the top. If this be
melted in, the flavor of the soup will certainly be spoiled.
Thickened soups require nearly double the seasoning used for thin
soups or broth.
Coloring is used in some brown soups, the chief of which is brown
burnt sugar, which is known as caramel by French cooks.
Pounded spinach leaves give a fine green color to soup. Parsley, or the
green leaves of celery put in soup, will serve instead of spinach.
Pound a large handful of spinach in a mortar, then tie it in a cloth, and
wring out all the juice; put this in the soup you wish to color green five
minutes before taking it up.
Mock turtle, and sometimes veal and lamb soups, should be this color.
Okras gives a green color to soup.
To color soup red, skin six red tomatoes,