The Log of the Empire State | Page 7

with easily
removed pumps. They had a good laugh at the row of dignified,
badge-bedecked representatives, solemnly lacing up their shoes, while
sitting on the stoop about a foot from the ground, with the blazing sun
upon them.
When we talked to some of the American residents in Japan, they all
got on the old familiar subject, the high cost of living, but they seem to
agree that it cost just twice as much to live in Japan as any other place
in the world. It seems that without considering the high rent, an amah
(a sort of maid who will do only certain duties), a house boy (who is
anywhere from twelve to sixty years old), and a cook (who gets a
commission on everything you buy) must be kept, even in the simplest
of homes. Those accustomed to one servant in America usually find it
necessary to have from three to six in Japan. Of course their wages are
less than in the United States, but food is very high. Rice, for instance,
was twenty percent higher than in America. Inferior coal was
twenty-two fifty a ton, and the high ceilinged, furnace less houses
require a great deal of coal and wood in winter. Very few Americans
use the jammed street cars. Automobiles are very expensive to maintain,
not only on account of the rough streets, but the licenses are very high.
One of our party hired a rick-shaw for twenty minutes and paid a yen
(about fifty cents), so residents usually find it more economical to keep
their own rick-shaws and coolies.
Certainly the Japanese are past masters in entertaining. No wonder it is
said that some of our former diplomats were so much influenced by
their lavish entertainment's that they lost their heads. The Chamber of
Commerce of Tokyo greeted our Chamber of Commerce
representatives at an elaborate theatre party. An especially staged
Japanese drama, followed by a comedy, with a sumptuous dinner
between the acts, was only a part of the entertainment. A. I. Esberg and
Byron Mauzy answered the banzis, of the oldest merchant in Japan,
Baron Okura, with three rousing cheers for the Japanese, after the
formal addresses had been made.
Everywhere we were met with politeness and courtesy. To the casual

observer the military element is not noticeable in the home life of the
common people, as they are rapt in their work, very industrious and get
their pleasure talking to their ever present babies, or tending some little
plants, even if squalor surrounds them. But the word of the ones higher
up is absolute law to them. Discipline is supreme from the time the
small boy is taught the "Goose Step," preparatory to his military
training, until he obediently marries the girl his parents have selected
for him. He does what he is told without a murmur, as does his wife
who is his absolute slave.
One understands why some call Japan the Germany of the East, which
country, some of our delegates were told by foreign residents, Japan
greatly admires. It is said that her people were more than surprised and
disappointed when the armistice was signed; as the Japanese press was
so well censored it gave no indication that Germany could be defeated.
After a day of sight-seeing, and investigating various trade conditions,
our party found the rickshaw ride back to the hotel, at dusk, most
interesting and quite exciting, if one has not become accustomed to the
rule of turning to the left instead of the right, as we do at home. Packed
street cars, automobiles, carts piled high with incredible loads pulled by
coolies, a girder being dragged by a scrawny horse led by a seemingly
tireless, whip-equipped native, all apparently were about to collide with
our rick-shaw party. We seemed to be always in the way and always on
the wrong side of the street. We remembered with a shudder, that the
Japanese believe it noble to die, and seemingly, they were going to drag
us to destruction with them. We tried to get them to go slower but
could not think of the Japanese words, so we might just as well have
tried to stop the North wind, as to have changed the orders given by our
interpreter to the coolies.

Chapter VI

We did not know that when we boarded the special train chartered by
the Tokyo Chamber of Commerce to take the San Francisco Chamber
of Commerce representatives to inspect the silk filatures, that a
delightful luncheon, or as it is called there, "Tiffin," was awaiting us

under the trees.
Although the heat was oppressive, it was surprising to see how
ceaselessly, and apparently without pain, little girls from twelve years
up, kept five cocoons unrolling at once, in boiling water, in order