The Log of the Empire State | Page 6

more eagerly to see land than the San
Francisco Chamber of Commerce representatives did, when someone
said that the dim outline of Fujiyama might be visible above the hazy
shore that looked as much like clouds as land.
All the men of the party were so busy with their field glasses, admiring
Yokohoma Harbor's wonderful fortifications, that they did not even
hear the women question what sort of a dress would be suitable for the
coming grand reception, and yet, at the same time withstand
sight-seeing in the dust of the streets. Even Mary Garden on her
opening night did not receive such rapt attention as did this harbor.
As we looked down over the huge side of the Empire State upon the
turmoil of humanity, baggage and freight and the uneven street beyond,
we gave thanks to the Baptist missionary, who is credited with making
an old baby carriage into the first rickshaw, for the convenience of his
sick wife. When we saw the little brown men actually run away with
our most corpulent representatives, without any apparent effort, we
forgot all about "Man's inhumanity to man" and no baby ever enjoyed
its first perambulator outing more than our party.
First, we swooped down upon the banks to change our money, but the
yen and sen counted out to us seemed as valueless as stage money.
However, we grew to respect it, after visiting Benton Dori and
departing with elaborate kimonos that the shrewd businessmen and
women of the party would have passed by as being too expensive, at
home.
It was great fun after being extravagant to figure out that a yen is only a
little over half as much as one of our dollars and that one had only
spent half as much as one thought.
Our party met the ladies (some of them American college graduates)
and gentlemen of the Yokohama Chamber of Commerce at a big
reception in a theatre. The governor, through his interpreter, said that
our arrival was on the first sunny day they had had in some time, that
the chrysanthemums were just blooming, and that this was a good
omen, for the war clouds had vanished. Geisha girls danced while
singing a specially composed chant of welcome, and an elaborate
luncheon was served in an adjoining hall. A. I. Esberg and F. R.
Eldridge answered the welcome saying, "That we hoped to establish
much more friendly and permanent relationship with the people of

Japan."
Most of the party had the inevitable tea in the foreign settlement,
known as the Bluff. Most of these houses are of the vintage of fifty
years ago and range in rental from $125 to $150, unfurnished, the
tenant having to install his own plumbing if he wishes such a luxury.
We wanted to know why some better arrangement was not made and
were reminded of the law that does not permit of any foreign ownership
of land.
Louis Mooser, former head of the San Francisco Real Estate Board,
was much interested in the situation. It seems that about one-seventh of
the small area available for foreigners was under perpetual lease to the
Germans and we were told that when war broke out it was taken over
by the Japanese, who only allowed their own race to buy, and all rents
were immediately raised.
It was said that instead of complaining about how little land Japan was
allowed in the United States, it would be fairer to give Americans in
Japan the same privileges that she enjoys in some of our states.
Americans in Yokohoma say that the Japanese law drafted to relieve
this situation and often proudly referred to by Japanese diplomats, has
never really been passed and therefore has no value. They add that if
old Marquis Okuma had more peace-craving followers and the
lawmakers were responsible to the people instead of the Emperor, for
whom they are said to act, differences between the United States and
Japan could be more quickly and completely settled.

Chapter V

To board a train after our long sea-trip was a delightful change. After
passing through quaint villages, rice fields, and interesting garden
patches we arrived at Tokyo in time for the ambassador's reception.
The moment one talks to Charles Warren, in charge of our American
Embassy in Japan, one feels that our Japanese problems are in very
conservative and capable hands.
Between receptions, we visited many quaint and beautiful temples. At
one we were so hospitably received, served with tea and dainty rice

cakes made with a special emblem upon them for the occasion that we
forgot to grumble about being made to remove our shoes. Only a few of
the party remembered the Japanese custom of removing the outer
foot-gear, when entering their temples, and came prepared