The Lands of the Saracen | Page 3

Gad-Flies
Again--A Summer Landscape--Ak-Sheher--The Base of Sultan
Dagh--The Fountain of Midas--A Drowsy Journey--The Town of
Bolawadün




Chapter XXII.
The Forests of Phrygia.
The Frontier of Phrygia--Ancient Quarries and Tombs--We Enter the
Pine Forests--A Guard-House--Encampments of the
Turcomans--Pastoral Scenery--A Summer Village--The Valley of the
Tombs--Rock Sepulchres of the Phrygian Kings--The Titan's
Camp--The Valley of Kümbeh--A Land of Flowers--Turcoman

Hospitality--The Exiled Effendis--The Old Turcoman--A Glimpse of
Arcadia--A Landscape--Interested Friendship--The Valley of the
Pursek--Arrival at Kiutahya




Chapter XXIII.
Kiutahya, and the Ruins of OEzani.
Entrance into Kiutahya--The New Khan--An Unpleasant
Discovery--Kiutahya--The Citadel--Panorama from the Walls--The
Gorge of the Mountains--Camp in a Meadow--The Valley of the
Rhyndacus--Chavdür--The Ruins of OEzani--The Acropolis and
Temple--The Theatre and Stadium--Ride down the Valley--Camp at
Daghjköi




Chapter XXIV.
The Mysian Olympus.
Journey Down the Valley--The Plague of Grasshoppers--A Defile--The
Town of Taushanlü--The Camp of Famine--We leave the
Rhyndacus--The Base of Olympus--Primeval Forests--The

Guard-House--Scenery of the Summit--Forests of
Beech--Saw-Mills--Descent of the Mountain--The View of
Olympus--Morning--The Land of Harvest--Aineghiöl--A Showery
Ride--The Plain of Brousa--The Structure of Olympus--We reach
Brousa--The Tent is Furled




Chapter XXV.
Brousa and the Sea of Marmora.
The City of Brousa--Return to Civilization--Storm--The Kalputcha
Hammam--A Hot Bath--A Foretaste of Paradise--The Streets and
Bazaars of Brousa--The Mosque--The Tombs of the Ottoman
Sultans--Disappearance of the Katurgees--We start for Moudania--The
Sea of Marmora--Moudania--Passport Difficulties--A Greek
Caïque--Breakfast with the Fishermen--A Torrid Voyage--The Princes'
Islands--Prinkipo--Distant View of Constantinople--We enter the
Golden Horn




Chapter XXVI.
The Night of Predestination.

Constantinople in Ramazan--The Origin of the Fast--Nightly
Illuminations--The Night of Predestination--The Golden Horn at
Night--Illumination of the Shores---The Cannon of Constantinople--A
Fiery Panorama--The Sultan's Caïque--Close of the Celebration--A
Turkish Mob--The Dancing Dervishes




Chapter XXVII.
The Solemnities of Bairam.
The Appearance of the New Moon--The Festival of Bairam--The
Interior of the Seraglio--The Pomp of the Sultan's Court--Reschid
Pasha--The Sultan's Dwarf--Arabian Stallions--The Imperial
Guard--Appearance of the Sultan--The Inner Court--Return of the
Procession--The Sultan on his Throne--The Homage of the Pashas--An
Oriental Picture--Kissing the Scarf--The Shekh el-Islàm--The
Descendant of the Caliphs--Bairam Commences




Chapter XXVIII.
The Mosques of Constantinople.

Sojourn at Constantinople--Semi-European Character of the City--The
Mosque--Procuring a Firman--The Seraglio--The Library--The Ancient
Throne-Room--Admittance to St. Sophia--Magnificence of the
Interior--The Marvellous Dome--The Mosque of Sultan Achmed--The
Sulemanye--Great Conflagrations--Political Meaning of the
Fires--Turkish Progress--Decay of the Ottoman Power




Chapter XXIX.
Farewell to the Orient--Malta.
Embarcation--Farewell to the Orient--Leaving Constantinople--A
Wreck--The Dardanelles--Homeric Scenery--Smyrna Revisited--The
Grecian Isles--Voyage to Malta--Detention--La Valetta--The
Maltese--The Climate--A Boat for Sicily




Chapter XXX.
The Festival of St. Agatha.
Departure from Malta--The Speronara--Our Fellow-Passengers--The
First Night on Board--Sicily--Scarcity of Provisions--Beating in the

Calabrian Channel--The Fourth Morning--The Gulf of Catania--A
Sicilian Landscape--The Anchorage--The Suspected List--The Streets
of Catania--Biography of St. Agatha--The Illuminations--The
Procession of the Veil--The Biscari Palace--The Antiquities of
Catania--The Convent of St. Nicola




Chapter XXXI.
The Eruption of Mount Etna.
The Mountain Threatens--The Signs Increase--We Leave
Catania--Gardens Among the Lava--Etna Labors--Aci Reale--The
Groans of Etna--The Eruption--Gigantic Tree of Smoke--Formation of
the New Crater--We Lose Sight of the Mountain--Arrival at
Messina--Etna is Obscured--Departure




Chapter XXXII.
Gibraltar.
Unwritten Links of Travel--Departure from Southampton--The Bay of
Biscay--Cintra--Trafalgar--Gibraltar at Midnight--Landing--Search for

a Palm-Tree--A Brilliant Morning--The Convexity of the
Earth--Sun-Worship--The Rock




Chapter XXXIII.
Cadiz and Seville.
Voyage to Cadiz--Landing--The City--Its Streets--The Women of
Cadiz--Embarkation for Seville--Scenery of the Guadalquivir--Custom
House Examination--The Guide--The Streets of Seville--The
Giralda--The Cathedral of Seville--The Alcazar--Moorish
Architecture--Pilate's House--Morning View from the Giralda--Old
Wine--Murillos--My Last Evening in Seville




Chapter XXXIV.
Journey in a Spanish Diligence.
Spanish Diligence Lines--Leaving Seville--An Unlucky Start--Alcalà
of the Bakers--Dinner at Carmona--A Dehesa--The Mayoral and his
Team--Ecija--Night Journey--Cordova--The
Cathedral-Mosque--Moorish Architecture--The Sierra Morena--A

Rainy Journey--A



Chapter of
Accidents--Baylen--The Fascination of Spain--Jaen--The Vega of
Granada




Chapter XXXV.
Granada and the Alhambra.
Mateo Ximenez, the Younger--The Cathedral of Granada--A Monkish
Miracle--Catholic Shrines--Military Cherubs--The Royal Chapel--The
Tombs of Ferdinand and Isabella--Chapel of San Juan de Dios--The
Albaycin--View of the Vega--The Generalife--The Alhambra--Torra de
la Vela--The Walls and Towers--A Visit to Old Mateo--The Court of
the Fishpond--The Halls of the Alhambra--Character of the
Architecture-- Hall of the Abencerrages--Hall of the Two Sisters--The
Moorish Dynasty in Spain




Chapter XXXVI.

The Bridle-Roads of Andalusia.
Change of Weather--Napoleon and his Horses--Departure from
Granada--My Guide, José Garcia--His Domestic Troubles--The
Tragedy of the Umbrella--The Vow against Aguardiente--Crossing the
Vega--The Sierra Nevada--The Baths of Alhama--"Woe is Me,
Alhama!"--The Valley of the River Vélez--Vélez Malaga--The Coast
Road--The Fisherman and his Donkey--Malaga--Summer Scenery--The
Story of Don Pedro, without Fear and without Care--The Field of
Monda--A Lonely Venta




Chapter XXXVII.
The Mountains of Fonda.
Orange Valleys--Climbing the Mountains--José's Hospitality--El
Burgo--The Gate of the Wind--The Cliff and Cascades of Ronda--The
Mountain Region--Traces of