The Lands of the Saracen | Page 2

of the Crusaders--The
Agriculture of the Hills--The Valley of Elah--Day-Dreams--The
Wilderness--The Approach--We See the Holy City




Chapter IV.
The Dead Sea and the River Jordan.
Bargaining for a Guard---Departure from Jerusalem--The Hill of
Offence--Bethany--The Grotto of Lazarus--The Valley of Fire--Scenery
of the Wilderness--The Hills of Engaddi--The shore of the Dead Sea--A
Bituminous Bath--Gallop to the Jordan--A watch for Robbers--The
Jordan--Baptism--The Plains of Jericho--The Fountain of Elisha--The
Mount of Temptation--Return to Jerusalem




Chapter V.
The City of Christ.
Modern Jerusalem--The Site of the City--Mount Zion--Mount
Moriah--The Temple--The Valley of Jehosaphat--The Olives of

Gethsemane--The Mount of Olives--Moslem Tradition--Panorama from
the Summit--The Interior of the City--The Population--Missions and
Missionaries--Christianity in Jerusalem--Intolerance--The Jews of
Jerusalem--The Face of Christ--The Church of the Holy
Sepulchre--The Holy of Holies--The Sacred Localities--Visions of
Christ--The Mosque of Omar--The Holy Man of
Timbuctoo--Preparations for Departure.




Chapter VI.
The Hill-Country of Palestine.
Leaving Jerusalem--The Tombs of the Kings--El Bireh--The
Hill-Country--First View of Mount Hermon--The Tomb of
Joseph--Ebal and Gerizim--The Gardens of Nablous--The
Samaritans--The Sacred Book--A Scene in the Synagogue--Mentor and
Telemachus--Ride to Samaria--The Ruins of Sebaste--Scriptural
Landscapes--Halt at Genin--The Plain of Esdraelon--Palestine and
California--The Hills of Nazareth--Accident--Fra Joachim--The Church
of the Virgin--The Shrine of the Annunciation--The Holy Places.




Chapter VII.

The Country of Galilee.
Departure from Nazareth--A Christian Guide--Ascent of Mount
Tabor--Wallachian Hermits--The Panorama of Tabor--Ride to
Tiberias--A Bath in Genesareth--The Flowers of Galilee--The Mount of
Beatitude--Magdala--Joseph's Well--Meeting with a Turk--The
Fountain of the Salt-Works--The Upper Valley of the Jordan--Summer
Scenery--The Rivers of Lebanon--Tell el-Kadi--An Arcadian
Region--The Fountains of Banias




Chapter VIII.
Crossing the Anti-Lebanon.
The Harmless Guard--Cæsarea Philippi--The Valley of the Druses--The
Sides of Mount Hermon--An Alarm--Threading a Defile--Distant view
of Djebel Hauaran--Another Alarm--Camp at Katana--We Ride into
Damascus




Chapter IX.
Pictures of Damascus.

Damascus from the Anti-Lebanon--Entering the City--A Diorama of
Bazaars--An Oriental Hotel--Our Chamber--The Bazaars--Pipes and
Coffee--The Rivers of Damascus--Palaces of the Jews--Jewish
Ladies--A Christian Gentleman--The Sacred Localities--Damascus
Blades--The Sword of Haroun Al-Raschid--An Arrival from Palmyra




Chapter X.
The Visions of Hasheesh.




Chapter XI.
A Dissertation on Bathing and Bodies.




Chapter XII.

Baalbec and Lebanon.
Departure from Damascus--The Fountains of the Pharpar--Pass of the
Anti-Lebanon--Adventure with the Druses--The Range of
Lebanon--The Demon of Hasheesh departs--Impressions of
Baalbec--The Temple of the Sun--Titanic Masonry--The Ruined
Mosque--Camp on Lebanon--Rascality of the Guide--The Summit of
Lebanon--The Sacred Cedars--The Christians of Lebanon--An
Afternoon in Eden--Rugged Travel--We Reach the Coast--Return to
Beyrout




Chapter XIII.
Pipes and Coffee




Chapter XIV.
Journey to Antioch and Aleppo.
Change of Plans--Routes to Baghdad--Asia Minor--We sail from
Beyrout--Yachting on the Syrian Coast--Tartus and Latakiyeh--The
Coasts of Syria--The Bay of Suediah--The Mouth of the

Orontes--Landing--The Garden of Syria--Ride to Antioch--The Modern
City--The Plains of the Orontes--Remains of the Greek Empire--The
Ancient Road--The Plain of Keftin--Approach to Aleppo.




Chapter XV.
Life in Aleppo.
Our Entry into Aleppo--We are conducted to a House--Our Unexpected
Welcome--The Mystery Explained--Aleppo--Its Name--Its
Situation--The Trade of Aleppo--The Christians--The Revolt of
1850--Present Appearance of the City--Visit to Osman Pasha--The
Citadel--View from the Battlements--Society in Aleppo--Etiquette and
Costume--Jewish Marriage Festivities--A Christian Marriage
Procession--Ride around the Town--Nightingales--The Aleppo
Button--A Hospital for Cats--Ferhat.




Chapter XVI.
Through the Syrian Gates.
An Inauspicious Departure--The Ruined Church of St. Simon--The

Plain of Antioch--A Turcoman Encampment--Climbing Akma
Dagh--The Syrian Gates--Scanderoon--An American Captain--Revolt
of the Koords--We take a Guard--The Field of Issus--The Robber-Chief,
Kutchuk Ali--A Deserted Town--A Land of Gardens.




Chapter XVII.
Adana and Tarsus.
The Black Gate--The Plain of Cilicia--A Koord
Village--Missis--Cilician Scenery--Arrival at Adana--Three days in
Quarantine--We receive Pratique--A Landscape--The Plain of
Tarsus--The River Cydnus--A Vision of Cleopatra--Tarsus and its
Environs--The _Duniktash_--The Moon of Ramazan.




Chapter XVIII.
The Pass of Mount Taurus.
We enter the Taurus--Turcomans--Forest Scenery--the Palace of
Pan--Khan Mezarluk--Morning among the Mountains--The Gorge of
the Cydnus--The Crag of the Fortress--The Cilician Grate--Deserted

Forts--A Sublime Landscape--The Gorge of the Sihoon--The Second
Gate--Camp in the Defile--Sunrise--Journey up the Sihoon--A Change
of Scenery--A Pastoral Valley--Kolü Kushla--A Deserted Khan--A
Guest in Ramazan--Flowers--The Plain of Karamania--Barren
Hills--The Town of Eregli--The Hadji again




Chapter XIX.
The Plains of Karamania.
The Plains of Karamania--Afternoon Heat--A Well--Volcanic
Phenomena--Karamania--A Grand Ruined Khan--Moonlight Picture--A
Landscape of the Plains--Mirages--A Short Interview--The Village of
Ismil--Third Day on the Plains--Approach to Konia




Chapter XX.
Scenes in Konia.
Approach to Konia--Tomb of Hazret Mevlana--Lodgings in a
Khan--An American Luxury--A Night-Scene in Ramazan--Prayers in
the Mosque--Remains of the Ancient City--View from the

Mosque--The Interior--A Leaning Minaret--The Diverting History of
the Muleteers




Chapter XXI.
The Heart of Asia Minor.
Scenery of the Hills--Ladik, the Ancient Laodicea--The Plague of
Gad-Flies--Camp at Ilgün--A Natural Warm Bath--The