The Land of the Black Mountain | Page 6

is more to preserve the peace in places
where different races meet, animated with fanatical hatred of each other.
But during the whole time of our sojourn in Montenegro, we never
witnessed a single case of men arrested for petty offences, or for
breaking the peace by common brawling or drunkenness. The only
cases that we did see were connected with the vendetta, which still
flourishes. In the course of our travels in the land we have sufficiently
illustrated this lamentable feature that no further comments are

necessary.
Prince Nicolas is said to know the name of every one of his subjects,
and will accost him by it. This is doubtless a great exaggeration, and
probably means that he knows personally all those who fought under
him in the last war, when the nation was considerably smaller than it is
now.
No man is too humble but that the Prince will stop and speak to him,
and ask him how the world is using him. The man rarely goes
empty-handed away. In these latter days the Prince is not so
open-handed as formerly, neither does he make so free with his
presence, but still it is no difficult thing for any of his subjects to obtain
an audience. He will stop a man at haphazard on the road and examine
his weapons, and woe betide him if his revolver is carried empty. Every
chamber but one must be loaded.
A characteristic instance of the Prince's observancy was once given in
Cetinje. An incongruous habit is creeping into the country of carrying a
huge cotton umbrella in the great heat. The Prince met a man carrying
one open, and promptly broke it over his head, saying--
"Art thou a hero, to carry a woman's sunshade?"
For even to-day the youngest man will maintain that he is a "hero" by
right of ancestry, and has no doubt of his capability to act up to the
traditions of his country in the event of war.
The national costume is worn by all, and in the richer classes is very
gorgeous. The combination of colour is in exquisite taste. There are
many variations, but a description of the gala uniform will suffice.
The cap, or "kapa," is the same for Prince and peasant. It is red with a
deep black border, which only leaves a small crown of the foundation
colour. On this crown in one corner are the letters "H.I." (in Latin
characters "N.I." or Nicolas 1st) and five semicircles in gold. The
explanations as to the meanings are slightly different. Both say the
black border is symbolic of mourning for the losses at Kossovo, while

the five lines are explained either as signifying the five centuries which
have elapsed since that terrible battle or as symbolic of a rainbow--the
sign of hope that one day the glories of the old Serb empire will be
restored. The red crown signifies "the field of blood," as the Hebrews
have it. Furthermore, the different insignia of rank are worn on the rim
of the cap, from the double eagle and lion of the senator in brass, the
different combinations of crossed swords of the officer, to the simple
star of lead of the corporal.
The costume consists of a "dzamadan," a red waistcoat, embroidered
with gold or black silk--the former on gala occasions--over which the
"gunj" is worn, a long, white or very pale blue coat, cut so that the
breast is left open and free. Another sleeveless jacket is worn, again,
over the gunj, called the "jelek," and is a mass of heavy gold and silk
embroidery, quite stiff in fact, and a marvel of beautiful tracing and
patterns.
Round the waist are three separate belts, the first a common belt, then
the leather "kolan" for the support of the weapons, and over all a silk
sash, the "pas," sometimes twenty yards long, wound round and round
many times and of brilliant colours.
Below, knee-breeches of dark blue material and voluminous
proportions, called "gace," bordered round the pockets with gold-work,
and high, patent-leather boots. This latter is merely modern dandyism;
the still invariably worn "dokoljenice" are white gaiters, fastened at the
back with hooks and eyes, which reach to the "opanki"--shoes made of
a flat leather sole, bound over with a thick network of whipcord.
The ordinary costume of the better classes for everyday wear (and this
is the uniform of the officers) is a short red jacket, embroidered like the
waistcoat in black silk, with sleeves carried either hussar fashion,
hanging behind, or over the sleeves of the waistcoat.
Then there are green gunj and even dark blue. The peasant wears
usually a coarse white serge gunj for every day and an ordinary shirt.
In the mountain districts and borderlands of the Brda the Albanian

costume