The Land of the Black Mountain | Page 5

reception held on New Year's Day, when the humblest peasant can go
to Cetinje and kiss the Prince's hand, Prince Nicolas places his wife to
his right, and every man must first kiss her hand. Thus in the highest
classes woman takes very nearly the same place as in civilised lands,
but as the social scale descends, so does the position of woman.
In the lowest classes she is still not much more than a beast of burden,
given to man to ease his lot. She carries heavy burdens to market, while
her lord rides; she may not walk at his side, but a few paces to the rear;
neither may she sit at table in the presence of strange men. The kiss
with which men salute each other is not allowed to her, and she must
kiss the hand only of the man. Likewise, she must rise to her feet when
men pass by, and in some districts, should she meet a man on the way,
she must stop and remain standing meekly at the side of the path; also,
she must leave the room backwards. Neither of these last-mentioned

customs is universal, but are to be found largely in the Brda.
The men are handsome and often of immense stature. Giants of 6 feet 8
inches are by no means uncommon; in fact, a few such men will be
seen in every town. The average height is quite 5 feet 10 or 11 inches,
broad-shouldered and deep-chested, with pleasant faces.
The women are often strikingly beautiful, especially when young, but
hard work ages them very quickly; in the upper classes, however,
middle-aged and elderly women of regal appearance can often be seen.
It is the manners of such women and universally of the men which
comes as the greatest surprise, when it is remembered that none or very
few have ever seen anything of the outside world.
The faults of the nation are inordinate vanity in their appearance,
causing them to impoverish themselves for the sake of gorgeous clothes,
and gambling. They gamble to an excessive degree, heaping debt after
debt upon their heads. Both these vices have caused an active
legislation. Gold embroidery has been abolished on the uniforms of the
army officers, and Prince Danilo has already declared that on coming to
the throne he will abolish the national costume altogether, i.e. amongst
the officials and the upper classes.
They love money and will do a good deal to get it, but when they have
money, they spend it in a reckless and freehanded manner. Thus they
will overcharge a stranger in an exorbitant fashion, thinking, in their
simple minds, that travellers are possessed of unlimited means. Tourists
are largely to blame for this, and pay, without audible comment, what
is asked. If a strong remonstrance is made, the charge will be reduced
in most cases. The dawn of civilisation has brought the love of money,
the frugal Montenegrins are now awakening to what money will
procure them, and they take as much as they can get without thought,
and without swindling intentions. Perhaps the lack of banks or any
institute where money can be saved up, may account for this.
Merchants buy houses or increase their stock. The peasant, as often as
not, gambles it away or buys fine clothes, a few thrifty ones purchasing
an extra cow.

No doubt the influence of civilisation, and in particular the
long-delayed prosperity of the land which is now slowly raising its
head, will alter this.
They very rarely quarrel, never brawl, and are hardly ever to be seen in
a state of intoxication.
On the other hand, they are merry, convivial, boon companions, and are
never happier than when dancing, singing their war songs and love
romances, or listening to the "guslar"--the national troubadour.
The characteristic bravery is still manifested in reckless deeds of
"derring do" on the Albanian borders. Shepherds will deliberately drive
their flocks across the frontier, thereby courting instant death. Many
instances have been given illustrating their love of danger.
Privacy of dwellings is non-existent. Men walk in and out, seating
themselves in the room and talking. In the evening the men will
congregate, stand and squat in a large ring, and solemnly discuss the
events of the day, or in towns will walk majestically up and down the
main street swinging the graceful "struka" or shawl from their
shoulders. Likewise, the drinking-houses are used as common
meeting-places, and there is no need to order refreshment.
Marriages, baptisms, deaths are occasions for great feasting, when the
national sheep is killed and roasted whole, and wine and spirits
consumed in appalling quantities, without however affecting the heads
of these iron people.
To keep order, there is a ridiculously small force of police or
gendarmes, and their object