The Innocents Abroad | Page 6

of the Country--Bedouin
Shepherds--Glimpses of the Hoary Past--Mr. Grimes's Bedouins--A
Battle--Ground of Joshua-- That Soldier's Manner of Fighting--Barak's
Battle--The Necessity of Unlearning Some Things--Desolation

CHAPTER XLVII.
"Jack's Adventure"--Joseph's Pit--The Story of Joseph--Joseph's
Magnanimity and Esau's--The Sacred Lake of Genessaret--Enthusiasm
of the Pilgrims--Why We did not Sail on Galilee--About
Capernaum--Concerning the Saviour's Brothers and Sisters--Journeying
toward Magdela

CHAPTER XLVIII.
Curious Specimens of Art and Architecture--Public Reception of the
Pilgrims--Mary Magdalen's House--Tiberias and its Queer Inhabitants--
The Sacred Sea of Galilee--Galilee by Night

CHAPTER XLIX.
The Ancient Baths--Ye Apparition--A Distinguished Panorama--The

Last Battle of the Crusades--The Story of the Lord of Kerak--Mount
Tabor-- What one Sees from its Top--Memory of a Wonderful
Garden--The House of Deborah the Prophetess

CHAPTER L.
Toward Nazareth--Bitten By a Camel--Grotto of the Annunciation,
Nazareth --Noted Grottoes in General--Joseph's Workshop--A Sacred
Bowlder-- The Fountain of the Virgin--Questionable Female Beauty--
Literary Curiosities

CHAPTER LI.
Boyhood of the Saviour--Unseemly Antics of Sober Pilgrims--Home of
the Witch of Endor--Nain--Profanation--A Popular Oriental
Picture--Biblical Metaphors Becoming steadily More Intelligible--The
Shuuem Miracle-- The "Free Son of The Desert"--Ancient
Jezrael--Jehu's Achievements-- Samaria and its Famous Siege

CHAPTER LII
Curious Remnant of the Past--Shechem--The Oldest "First Family" on
Earth --The Oldest Manuscript Extant--The Genuine Tomb of
Joseph--Jacob's Well --Shiloh--Camping with the Arabs--Jacob's
Ladder--More Desolation-- Ramah, Beroth, the Tomb of Samuel, The
Fountain of Beira--Impatience-- Approaching Jerusalem--The Holy
City in Sight--Noting Its Prominent Features--Domiciled Within the
Sacred Walls

CHAPTER LIII.

"The Joy of the Whole Earth"--Description of Jerusalem--Church of the
Holy Sepulchre--The Stone of Unction--The Grave of Jesus--Graves of
Nicodemus and Joseph of Armattea--Places of the Apparition--The
Finding of the There Crosses----The Legend--Monkish
Impostures--The Pillar of Flagellation--The Place of a Relic--Godfrey's
Sword--"The Bonds of Christ"--"The Center of the Earth"--Place
whence the Dust was taken of which Adam was Made--Grave of
Adam--The Martyred Soldier--The Copper Plate that was on the
Cross--The Good St. Helena--Place of the Division of the Garments--St.
Dimas, the Penitent Thief--The Late Emperor Maximilian's
Contribution--Grotto wherein the Crosses were Found, and the Nails,
and the Crown of Thorns--Chapel of the Mocking--Tomb of
Melchizedek--Graves of Two Renowned Crusaders--The Place of the
Crucifixion

CHAPTER LIV.
The "Sorrowful Way"--The Legend of St. Veronica's Handkerchief--
An Illustrious Stone--House of the Wandering Jew--The Tradition of
the Wanderer--Solomon's Temple--Mosque of Omar--Moslem
Traditions--"Women not Admitted"--The Fate of a Gossip--Turkish
Sacred Relics--Judgment Seat of David and Saul--Genuine Precious
Remains of Solomon's Temple--Surfeited with Sights--The Pool of
Siloam--The Garden of Gethsemane and Other Sacred Localities

CHAPTER LV.
Rebellion in the Camp--Charms of Nomadic Life--Dismal Rumors--En
Route for Jericho and The Dead Sea--Pilgrim Strategy--Bethany and
the Dwelling of Lazarus--"Bedouins!"--Ancient Jericho--Misery--The
Night March-- The Dead Sea--An Idea of What a "Wilderness" in
Palestine is--The Holy hermits of Mars Saba--Good St. Saba--Women
not Admitted--Buried from the World for all Time--Unselfish Catholic

Benevolence--Gazelles--The Plain of the Shepherds--Birthplace of the
Saviour, Bethlehem--Church of the Nativity--Its Hundred Holy
Places--The Famous "Milk" Grotto--Tradition-- Return to
Jerusalem--Exhausted

CHAPTER LVI.
Departure from Jerusalem--Samson--The Plain of Sharon--Arrival at
Joppa-- Horse of Simon the Tanner--The Long Pilgrimage
Ended--Character of Palestine Scenery--The Curse

CHAPTER LVII.
The Happiness of being at Sea once more--"Home" as it is in a Pleasure
Ship--"Shaking Hands" with the Vessel--Jack in Costume--His Father's
Parting Advice--Approaching Egypt--Ashore in Alexandria--A
Deserved Compliment for the Donkeys--Invasion of the Lost Tribes of
America--End of the Celebrated "Jaffa Colony"--Scenes in Grand
Cairo--Shepheard's Hotel Contrasted with a Certain American
Hotel--Preparing for the Pyramids

CHAPTER LVIII.
"Recherche" Donkeys--A Wild Ride--Specimens of Egyptian
Modesty--Moses in the Bulrushes--Place where the Holy Family
Sojourned--Distant view of the Pyramids--A Nearer View--The
Ascent--Superb View from the top of the Pyramid--"Backsheesh!
Backsheesh!"--An Arab Exploit--In the Bowels of the
Pyramid--Strategy--Reminiscence of "Holiday's Hill"--Boyish
Exploit--The Majestic Sphynx--Things the Author will not Tell--Grand
Old Egypt

CHAPTER LIX.
Going Home--A Demoralized Note-Book--A Boy's Diary--Mere
Mention of Old Spain--Departure from Cadiz--A Deserved
Rebuke--The Beautiful Madeiras --Tabooed--In the Delightful
Bermudas--An English Welcome--Good-by to "Our Friends the
Bermudians"--Packing Trunks for Home--Our First Accident--The
Long Cruise Drawing to a Close--At Home--Amen

CHAPTER LX.
Thankless Devotion--A Newspaper Valedictory--Conclusion

PREFACE
This book is a record of a pleasure trip. If it were a record of a solemn
scientific expedition, it would have about it that gravity, that profundity,
and that impressive incomprehensibility which are so proper to works
of that kind, and withal so attractive. Yet notwithstanding it is only a
record of a pic-nic, it has a purpose, which is to suggest to the reader
how he would be likely to see Europe and the East if he looked at them
with his own eyes instead of the eyes of those who traveled in those
countries before him. I make small pretense of showing anyone how he
ought to look at objects of interest beyond the sea--other books do that,
and therefore, even if I were competent to do it, there is no need.