The Art of Perfumery | Page 3

Rose Soap--Tonquin Musk Soap--Orange-Flower Soap--Santal-wood Soap--Spermaceti Soap--Citron Soap--Frangipanne Soap--Patchouly Soap--Soft or Potash Soaps--Saponaceous Cream of Almonds--Soap Powders--Rypophagon Soap--Ambrosial Cream--Transparent soft Soap--Transparent hard Soap--Medicated Soaps--Juniper Tar Soap--Iodine Soap--Sulphur Soap--Bromine Soap--Creosote Soap--Mercurial Soap--Croton Oil Soap--Their Use in Cutaneous Diseases
SECTION IX.
EMULSINES.
Form Emulsions or Milks when mixed with Water--Prone to Change--Amandine--Olivine--Honey and Almond Paste--Pure Almond Paste--Almond Meal--Pistachio Nut Meal--Jasmine Emulsion--Violet Emulsion
SECTION X.
MILKS OR EMULSIONS.
Liebig's notice of Almond Milk--Milk of Roses--Milk of Almonds--Milk of Elder--Milk of Dandelion--Milk of Cucumber--Essence of Cucumber--Milk of Pistachio Nuts--Lait Virginal--Extract of Elder Flowers
SECTION XI.
COLD CREAM.
Manipulation--Cold Cream of Almonds--Violet Cold Cream--Imitation Violet Cold Cream--Cold Cream of various Flowers--Camphor Cold Cream--Cucumber Cold Cream--Piver's Pomade of Cucumber--Pomade Divine--Almond Balls--Camphor Balls--Camphor Paste--Glycerine Balsam--Rose Lip Salve--White Lip Salve--Common Lip Salve
SECTION XII.
POMADES AND OILS.
Pomatum, as its name implies, originally made with Apples--Scentless Grease--Enfleurage and Maceration process--Acacia, or Cassie Pomade--Benzoin Pomade and Oil--Vanilla Oil and Pomade--Pomade called Bear's Grease--Circassian Cream--Balsam of Flowers--Crystallized Oils--Castor Oil Pomatum--Balsam of Neroli--Marrow Cream--Marrow Pomatum--Violet Pomatum--Pomade Double, Millefleurs--Pomade à la Heliotrope--Huile Antique--Philocome--Pomade Hongroise--Hard or Stick Pomatums--Black and Brown Cosmetique
SECTION XIII.
HAIR DYES AND DEPILATORIES.
Painting the Face universal among the Women of Egypt--Kohhl, the Smoke of Gum Labdanum, used by the Girls of Greece to color the Lashes and Sockets of the Eye--Turkish Hair Dye--Rastikopetra Dye--Litharge Dye--Silver Dye--Hair Dyes, with Mordant--Inodorous Dye--Brown and Black Hair Dye--Liquid Lead Dye--Depilatory, Rusma
SECTION XIV.
ABSORBENT POWDERS.
Violet Powder--Rose Face Powder--Perle Powder--Liquid Blanc for Theatrical Use--Calcined Talc--Rouge and Red Paints--Bloom of Roses--Carmine Toilet Rouge--Carthamus Flowers--Pink Saucers--Crépon Rouge
SECTION XV.
TOOTH POWDERS AND MOUTH WASHES.
Mialhi's Tooth Powder--Camphorated Chalk--Quinine Tooth Powder--Prepared Charcoal--Peruvian Bark Powder--Homoeopathic Chalk--Cuttle-Fish Powder--Borax and Myrrh--Farina Piesse's Dentifrice--Rose Tooth Powder--Opiate Paste--Violet Mouth Wash--Eau Botot--Botanic Styptic--Tincture of Myrrh and Borax--Myrrh with Eau de Cologne--Camphorated Eau de Cologne
SECTION XVI.
HAIR WASHES.
Rosemary Hair Wash--Athenian Water--Vegetable or Botanic Hair Wash--Astringent Extract of Roses and Rosemary--Saponaceous Wash--Egg Julep--Bandolines--Rose and Almond Bandoline

Contents of Appendix.
Manufacture of Glycerine
Test for Alcohol in Essential Oils
Detection of Poppy and other drying Oils in Almond and Olive Oil
Coloring matter of Volatile Oils
Artificial Preparation of Otto of Cinnamon
Detection of Spike Oil and Turpentine in Lavender Oil
The Orange Flower Waters of Commerce
Concentrated Elder Water
ARNALL on Spirits of Wine
Purification of Spirits by Filtration
COBB on Otto of Lemons
BASTICK on Benzoic Acid
On the Coloring matters of Flowers
Bleaching Bees' Wax
Chemical Examination of Naples Soap
Manufacture of Soap
How to Ascertain the Commercial Value of Soap
On the Natural Fats
Perfumes as Preventives of Mouldiness
BASTICK on Fusel Oil
BASTICK'S Pine Apple Flavor
WAGNER'S Essence of Quince
Preparation of Rum-ether
Artificial Fruit essences
Volatile Oil of Gaultheria
Application of Chemistry to Perfumery
Correspondence from the Journal of the Society of Arts
Quantities of Ottos yielded by various Plants
French and English Weights and Measures compared

Illustrations.
Drying House, Mitcham, Surrey, (Frontispiece.)
Smelling, from the Dresden Gallery, (Vignette.)
Pipette, to draw off small Portions of Otto from Water
Tap Funnel for separating Ottos from Waters, and Spirits from Oil
The Almond
Styrax Benzoin
Cassie Buds
The Clove
The Jasmine
The Orange
The Patchouly Plant
Santal-Wood
Tonquin
Vanilla
Vitivert
Civet Cat
Musk Pod
Musk Deer
The Censer
Perfume Lamp
Slab Soap Gauge
Barring Gauge
Squaring Gauge
Soap Scoops
Soap Press
Moulds
Soap Plane
Oil Runner

THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

INTRODUCTION AND HISTORY.
SECTION I.
"By Nature's swift and secret working hand The garden glows, and fills the liberal air With lavish odors. There let me draw Ethereal soul, there drink reviving gales, Profusely breathing from the spicy groves And vales of fragrance."--THOMSON.
Among the numerous gratifications derived from the cultivation of flowers, that of rearing them for the sake of their perfumes stands pre-eminent. It is proved from the oldest records, that perfumes have been in use from the earliest periods. The origin of this, like that of many other arts, is lost in the depth of its antiquity; though it had its rise, no doubt, in religious observances. Among the nations of antiquity, an offering of perfumes was regarded as a token of the most profound respect and homage. Incense, or Frankincense, which exudes by incision and dries as a gum, from _Arbor-thurifera_, was formerly burnt in the temples of all religions, in honor of the divinities that were there adored. Many of the primitive Christians were put to death because they would not offer incense to idols.
"Of the use of these luxuries by the Greeks, and afterwards by the Romans, Pliny and Seneca gives much information respecting perfume drugs, the method of collecting them, and the prices at which they sold. Oils and powder perfumery were most lavishly used, for even three times a day did some of the luxurious people anoint and scent themselves, carrying their precious perfumes with them to the baths in costly and elegant boxes called NARTHECIA."
In the Romish Church incense is used in many ceremonies, and particularly at the solemn funerals of the hierarchy, and other personages of exalted rank.
Pliny makes a note of the tree from which frankincense is procured, and certain passages in his works indicate that dried flowers were used in his time by way of perfume, and that they were, as now, mixed with spices, a compound which the modern perfumer calls _pot-pourri_, used for scenting apartments, and generally placed in some ornamental