The Art of Perfumery | Page 2

which it is produced, has been successfully cultivated by him. The Oil of Behn, being a perfectly inodorous fat oil, is a valuable agent for extracting the odors of flowers by the maceration process.
At no distant period I hope to see, either at the Crystal Palace, Sydenham, at the Royal Botanical Gardens, Kew, or elsewhere, a place to illustrate the commercial use of flowers--eye-lectures on the methods of obtaining the odors of plants and their various uses. The horticulturists of England, being generally unacquainted with the methods of economizing the scents from the flowers they cultivate, entirely lose what would be a very profitable source of income. For many ages copper ore was thrown over the cliffs into the sea by the Cornish miners working the tin streams; how much wealth was thus cast away by ignorance we know not, but there is a perfect parallel between the old miners and the modern gardeners.
Many readers of the "Gardeners' Chronicle" and of the "Annals of Pharmacy and Chemistry" will recognize in the following pages much matter that has already passed under their eyes.
To be of the service intended, such matter must however have a book form; I have therefore collected from the above-mentioned periodicals all that I considered might be useful to the reader.
To Sir Wm. Hooker, Dr. Lindley, Mr. W. Dickinson, and Mr. W. Bastick, I respectfully tender my thanks for the assistance they have so freely given whenever I have had occasion to seek their advice.

Contents.
PREFACE
SECTION I.
INTRODUCTION AND HISTORY.
Perfumes in use from the Earliest Periods--Origin lost in the Depth of its Antiquity--Possibly derived from Religious Observances--Incense or Frankincense burned in Honor of the Divinities--Early Christians put to Death for refusing to offer Incense to Idols--Use of perfumes by the Greeks and Romans--Pliny and Seneca observe that some of the luxurious People scent themselves Three Times a Day--Use of Incense in the Romish Church--Scriptural Authority for the use of Perfume--Composition of the Holy Perfume--The Prophet's Simile--St. Ephr?m's Will--Fragrant Tapers--Constantine provides fragrant Oil to burn at the Altars--Frangipanni--Trade in the East in Perfume Drugs--The Art of Perfumery of little Distinction in England--Solly's admirable Remarks on Trade Secrets--British Horticulturists neglect to collect the Fragrance of the Flowers they cultivate--The South of France the principal Seat of the Art--England noted for Lavender--Some Plants yield more than one Perfume--Odor of Plants owing to a peculiar Principle known as Essential Oil or Otto
SECTION II.
Consumption of Perfumery--Methods of obtaining the Odors:--Expression, Distillation, Maceration, Absorption
SECTION III.
Steam-Still--Macerating Pan--Ottos exhibited at the Crystal Palace of 1851--SIMPLE EXTRACTS:--Allspice, Almond, Artificial Otto of Almonds, Anise, Balm, Balsams, Bay, Bergamot, Benzoin, Caraway, Cascarilla, Cassia, Cassie, Cedar, Cedrat, Cinnamon, Citron, Citronella, Clove, Dill, Eglantine or Sweet Brier, Elder, Fennel, Flag, Geranium, Heliotrope, Honeysuckle, Hovenia, Jasmine, Jonquil, Laurel, Lavender, Lemon-grass, Lilac, Lily, Mace, Magnolia, Marjoram, Meadow-sweet, Melissa, Mignonette, Miribane, Mint, Myrtle, Neroli, Nutmeg, Olibanum, Orange, Orris, Palm, Patchouly, Sweet Pea (Theory of Odors), Pineapple, Pink, Rhodium (Rose yields two Odors), Rosemary, Sage, Santal, Sassafras, Spike, Storax, Syringa, Thyme, Tonquin, Tuberose, Vanilla, Verbena or Vervain, Violet, Vitivert, Volkameria, Wallflower, Winter-green--Duty on Essential Oils--Quantity imported--Statistics, &c.
SECTION IV.
ANIMAL PERFUMES.
Ambergris--Civet--Musk
SECTION V.
SMELLING SALTS:--Ammonia, Preston Salts, Inexhaustible Salts, Eau de Luce, Sal Volatile
ACETIC ACID AND ITS USE IN PERFUMERY.--Aromatic Vinegar, Henry's Vinegar, Vinaigre à la Rose, Four Thieves' Vinegar, Hygienic Vinegar, Violet Vinegar, Toilet Vinegar, Vinaigre de Cologne
SECTION VI.
BOUQUETS AND NOSEGAYS.
Proposed Use of the Term "Otto" to denote the odoriferous Principle of Plants
COMPOUND ODORS:--The Alhambra Perfume--The Bosphorus Bouquet--Bouquet d'Amour--Bouquet des Fleurs du Val d'Andorre--Buckingham Palace Bouquet--Délices--The Court Nosegay--Eau de Chypre--The Empress Eugenie's Nosegay--Esterhazy--Ess Bouquet--Eau de Cologne. (French and English Spirit.) Flowers of Erin--Royal Hunt Bouquet--Extract of Flowers--The Guards' Bouquet--Italian Nosegay--English Jockey Club--French Jockey Club. (Difference of the Odor of English and French Perfumes due to the Spirit of Grape and Corn Spirit.) A Japanese Perfume--The Kew Garden Nosegay--Millefleurs--Millefleurs et Lavender--Delcroix's Lavender--Marechale--Mousselaine--Bouquet de Montpellier--Caprice de la Mode--May Flowers--Neptune, or Naval Nosegay--Bouquet of all Nations--Isle of Wight Bouquet--Bouquet du Roi--Bouquet de la Reine Victoria--Rondeletia. (Odors properly blended produce new Fragrances.) Bouquet Royal--Suave--Spring Flowers--Tulip Nosegay--The Wood Violet--Windsor Castle Bouquet--Yacht Club Nosegay
SECTION VII.
The ancient Perfumes were only odoriferous Gums--Abstaining from the Use of Perfumes a Sign of Humiliation--The Vase at Alnwick Castle--Sachet Powders--Sachet au Chypre--Sachet à la Frangipanne--Heliotrope Sachet--Lavender Sachet--Sachet à la Maréchale--Mousselaine--Millefleur--Portugal Sachet--Patchouly Sachet--Pot Pourri--Olla Podrida--Rose Sachet--Santal-wood Sachet--Sachet (without a name)--Vervain Sachet--Vitivert--Violet Sachet--Perfumed Leather--Russia Leather--Peau d'Espagne--Perfumed Letter Paper--Perfumed Book-markers--Cassolettes, and Printaniers
Pastils--The Censer--Vase in the British Museum--Method of using the Censer--Incense for Altar Service--Yellow Pastils--Dr. Paris's Pastils--Perfumer's Pastils--Piesse's Pastils--Fumigation--The Perfume Lamp--Incandescent Platinum--Eau à Bruler--Eau pour Bruler--Fumigating Paper--Perfuming Spills--Odoriferous Lighters
SECTION VIII.
PERFUMED SOAP.
Perfumed Soap--Ancient Origin of Soap--Early Records of the Soap Trade in England--Perfumers not Soap Makers--Remelting--Primary Soaps--Curd Soap--Oil Soap--Castile Soap--Marine Soap--Yellow Soap--Palm Soap--Excise Duty on Soap--Fig Soft Soap--Naples Soft Soap--The remelting Process--Soap cutting--Soap stamping--Scented Soaps
Almond Soap--Camphor Soap--Honey Soap--White Windsor Soap--Brown Windsor Soap--Sand Soap--Fuller's Earth Soap--Scenting Soaps Hot--Scenting Soaps Cold--Colored Soaps:--Red, Green, Blue, Brown Soaps--Otto of