The Art of Perfumery | Page 3

Bruler--Eau pour
Bruler--Fumigating Paper--Perfuming Spills--Odoriferous Lighters
SECTION VIII.
PERFUMED SOAP.
Perfumed Soap--Ancient Origin of Soap--Early Records of the Soap
Trade in England--Perfumers not Soap Makers--Remelting--Primary
Soaps--Curd Soap--Oil Soap--Castile Soap--Marine Soap--Yellow
Soap--Palm Soap--Excise Duty on Soap--Fig Soft Soap--Naples Soft
Soap--The remelting Process--Soap cutting--Soap stamping--Scented
Soaps
Almond Soap--Camphor Soap--Honey Soap--White Windsor
Soap--Brown Windsor Soap--Sand Soap--Fuller's Earth Soap--Scenting
Soaps Hot--Scenting Soaps Cold--Colored Soaps:--Red, Green, Blue,
Brown Soaps--Otto of Rose Soap--Tonquin Musk
Soap--Orange-Flower Soap--Santal-wood Soap--Spermaceti
Soap--Citron Soap--Frangipanne Soap--Patchouly Soap--Soft or Potash
Soaps--Saponaceous Cream of Almonds--Soap Powders--Rypophagon
Soap--Ambrosial Cream--Transparent soft Soap--Transparent hard
Soap--Medicated Soaps--Juniper Tar Soap--Iodine Soap--Sulphur
Soap--Bromine Soap--Creosote Soap--Mercurial Soap--Croton Oil
Soap--Their Use in Cutaneous Diseases

SECTION IX.
EMULSINES.
Form Emulsions or Milks when mixed with Water--Prone to
Change--Amandine--Olivine--Honey and Almond Paste--Pure Almond
Paste--Almond Meal--Pistachio Nut Meal--Jasmine Emulsion--Violet
Emulsion
SECTION X.
MILKS OR EMULSIONS.
Liebig's notice of Almond Milk--Milk of Roses--Milk of
Almonds--Milk of Elder--Milk of Dandelion--Milk of
Cucumber--Essence of Cucumber--Milk of Pistachio Nuts--Lait
Virginal--Extract of Elder Flowers
SECTION XI.
COLD CREAM.
Manipulation--Cold Cream of Almonds--Violet Cold Cream--Imitation
Violet Cold Cream--Cold Cream of various Flowers--Camphor Cold
Cream--Cucumber Cold Cream--Piver's Pomade of
Cucumber--Pomade Divine--Almond Balls--Camphor Balls--Camphor
Paste--Glycerine Balsam--Rose Lip Salve--White Lip Salve--Common
Lip Salve
SECTION XII.
POMADES AND OILS.
Pomatum, as its name implies, originally made with Apples--Scentless
Grease--Enfleurage and Maceration process--Acacia, or Cassie
Pomade--Benzoin Pomade and Oil--Vanilla Oil and Pomade--Pomade
called Bear's Grease--Circassian Cream--Balsam of
Flowers--Crystallized Oils--Castor Oil Pomatum--Balsam of
Neroli--Marrow Cream--Marrow Pomatum--Violet Pomatum--Pomade

Double, Millefleurs--Pomade à la Heliotrope--Huile
Antique--Philocome--Pomade Hongroise--Hard or Stick
Pomatums--Black and Brown Cosmetique
SECTION XIII.
HAIR DYES AND DEPILATORIES.
Painting the Face universal among the Women of Egypt--Kohhl, the
Smoke of Gum Labdanum, used by the Girls of Greece to color the
Lashes and Sockets of the Eye--Turkish Hair Dye--Rastikopetra
Dye--Litharge Dye--Silver Dye--Hair Dyes, with Mordant--Inodorous
Dye--Brown and Black Hair Dye--Liquid Lead Dye--Depilatory,
Rusma
SECTION XIV.
ABSORBENT POWDERS.
Violet Powder--Rose Face Powder--Perle Powder--Liquid Blanc for
Theatrical Use--Calcined Talc--Rouge and Red Paints--Bloom of
Roses--Carmine Toilet Rouge--Carthamus Flowers--Pink
Saucers--Crépon Rouge
SECTION XV.
TOOTH POWDERS AND MOUTH WASHES.
Mialhi's Tooth Powder--Camphorated Chalk--Quinine Tooth
Powder--Prepared Charcoal--Peruvian Bark Powder--Homoeopathic
Chalk--Cuttle-Fish Powder--Borax and Myrrh--Farina Piesse's
Dentifrice--Rose Tooth Powder--Opiate Paste--Violet Mouth
Wash--Eau Botot--Botanic Styptic--Tincture of Myrrh and
Borax--Myrrh with Eau de Cologne--Camphorated Eau de Cologne
SECTION XVI.
HAIR WASHES.

Rosemary Hair Wash--Athenian Water--Vegetable or Botanic Hair
Wash--Astringent Extract of Roses and Rosemary--Saponaceous
Wash--Egg Julep--Bandolines--Rose and Almond Bandoline

Contents of Appendix.
Manufacture of Glycerine
Test for Alcohol in Essential Oils
Detection of Poppy and other drying Oils in Almond and Olive Oil
Coloring matter of Volatile Oils
Artificial Preparation of Otto of Cinnamon
Detection of Spike Oil and Turpentine in Lavender Oil
The Orange Flower Waters of Commerce
Concentrated Elder Water
ARNALL on Spirits of Wine
Purification of Spirits by Filtration
COBB on Otto of Lemons
BASTICK on Benzoic Acid
On the Coloring matters of Flowers
Bleaching Bees' Wax
Chemical Examination of Naples Soap
Manufacture of Soap

How to Ascertain the Commercial Value of Soap
On the Natural Fats
Perfumes as Preventives of Mouldiness
BASTICK on Fusel Oil
BASTICK'S Pine Apple Flavor
WAGNER'S Essence of Quince
Preparation of Rum-ether
Artificial Fruit essences
Volatile Oil of Gaultheria
Application of Chemistry to Perfumery
Correspondence from the Journal of the Society of Arts
Quantities of Ottos yielded by various Plants
French and English Weights and Measures compared

Illustrations.
Drying House, Mitcham, Surrey, (Frontispiece.)
Smelling, from the Dresden Gallery, (Vignette.)
Pipette, to draw off small Portions of Otto from Water
Tap Funnel for separating Ottos from Waters, and Spirits from Oil
The Almond

Styrax Benzoin
Cassie Buds
The Clove
The Jasmine
The Orange
The Patchouly Plant
Santal-Wood
Tonquin
Vanilla
Vitivert
Civet Cat
Musk Pod
Musk Deer
The Censer
Perfume Lamp
Slab Soap Gauge
Barring Gauge
Squaring Gauge
Soap Scoops
Soap Press

Moulds
Soap Plane
Oil Runner

THE ART OF PERFUMERY.

INTRODUCTION AND HISTORY.
SECTION I.
"By Nature's swift and secret working hand The garden glows, and fills
the liberal air With lavish odors. There let me draw Ethereal soul, there
drink reviving gales, Profusely breathing from the spicy groves And
vales of fragrance."--THOMSON.
Among the numerous gratifications derived from the cultivation of
flowers, that of rearing them for the sake of their perfumes stands
pre-eminent. It is proved from the oldest records, that perfumes have
been in use from the earliest periods. The origin of this, like that of
many other arts, is lost in the depth of its antiquity; though it had its
rise, no doubt, in religious observances. Among the nations of antiquity,
an offering of perfumes was regarded as a token of the most profound
respect and homage. Incense, or Frankincense, which exudes by
incision and dries as a gum, from _Arbor-thurifera_, was formerly
burnt in the temples of all religions, in honor of the divinities that were
there adored. Many of the primitive Christians were put to death
because they would not offer incense to idols.
"Of the use of