The Art of Perfumery | Page 2

useful description of labor to British enterprise, I am no less
sanguine of the final result in other hands.
Mr. Kemble, of Jamaica, has recently sent to England some fine
samples of Oil of Behn. The Moringa, from which it is produced, has
been successfully cultivated by him. The Oil of Behn, being a perfectly
inodorous fat oil, is a valuable agent for extracting the odors of flowers
by the maceration process.

At no distant period I hope to see, either at the Crystal Palace,
Sydenham, at the Royal Botanical Gardens, Kew, or elsewhere, a place
to illustrate the commercial use of flowers--eye-lectures on the methods
of obtaining the odors of plants and their various uses. The
horticulturists of England, being generally unacquainted with the
methods of economizing the scents from the flowers they cultivate,
entirely lose what would be a very profitable source of income. For
many ages copper ore was thrown over the cliffs into the sea by the
Cornish miners working the tin streams; how much wealth was thus
cast away by ignorance we know not, but there is a perfect parallel
between the old miners and the modern gardeners.
Many readers of the "Gardeners' Chronicle" and of the "Annals of
Pharmacy and Chemistry" will recognize in the following pages much
matter that has already passed under their eyes.
To be of the service intended, such matter must however have a book
form; I have therefore collected from the above-mentioned periodicals
all that I considered might be useful to the reader.
To Sir Wm. Hooker, Dr. Lindley, Mr. W. Dickinson, and Mr. W.
Bastick, I respectfully tender my thanks for the assistance they have so
freely given whenever I have had occasion to seek their advice.

Contents.
PREFACE
SECTION I.
INTRODUCTION AND HISTORY.
Perfumes in use from the Earliest Periods--Origin lost in the Depth of
its Antiquity--Possibly derived from Religious Observances--Incense or
Frankincense burned in Honor of the Divinities--Early Christians put to
Death for refusing to offer Incense to Idols--Use of perfumes by the
Greeks and Romans--Pliny and Seneca observe that some of the

luxurious People scent themselves Three Times a Day--Use of Incense
in the Romish Church--Scriptural Authority for the use of
Perfume--Composition of the Holy Perfume--The Prophet's Simile--St.
Ephræm's Will--Fragrant Tapers--Constantine provides fragrant Oil to
burn at the Altars--Frangipanni--Trade in the East in Perfume
Drugs--The Art of Perfumery of little Distinction in England--Solly's
admirable Remarks on Trade Secrets--British Horticulturists neglect to
collect the Fragrance of the Flowers they cultivate--The South of
France the principal Seat of the Art--England noted for
Lavender--Some Plants yield more than one Perfume--Odor of Plants
owing to a peculiar Principle known as Essential Oil or Otto
SECTION II.
Consumption of Perfumery--Methods of obtaining the
Odors:--Expression, Distillation, Maceration, Absorption
SECTION III.
Steam-Still--Macerating Pan--Ottos exhibited at the Crystal Palace of
1851--SIMPLE EXTRACTS:--Allspice, Almond, Artificial Otto of
Almonds, Anise, Balm, Balsams, Bay, Bergamot, Benzoin, Caraway,
Cascarilla, Cassia, Cassie, Cedar, Cedrat, Cinnamon, Citron, Citronella,
Clove, Dill, Eglantine or Sweet Brier, Elder, Fennel, Flag, Geranium,
Heliotrope, Honeysuckle, Hovenia, Jasmine, Jonquil, Laurel, Lavender,
Lemon-grass, Lilac, Lily, Mace, Magnolia, Marjoram, Meadow-sweet,
Melissa, Mignonette, Miribane, Mint, Myrtle, Neroli, Nutmeg,
Olibanum, Orange, Orris, Palm, Patchouly, Sweet Pea (Theory of
Odors), Pineapple, Pink, Rhodium (Rose yields two Odors), Rosemary,
Sage, Santal, Sassafras, Spike, Storax, Syringa, Thyme, Tonquin,
Tuberose, Vanilla, Verbena or Vervain, Violet, Vitivert, Volkameria,
Wallflower, Winter-green--Duty on Essential Oils--Quantity
imported--Statistics, &c.
SECTION IV.
ANIMAL PERFUMES.

Ambergris--Civet--Musk
SECTION V.
SMELLING SALTS:--Ammonia, Preston Salts, Inexhaustible Salts,
Eau de Luce, Sal Volatile
ACETIC ACID AND ITS USE IN PERFUMERY.--Aromatic Vinegar,
Henry's Vinegar, Vinaigre à la Rose, Four Thieves' Vinegar, Hygienic
Vinegar, Violet Vinegar, Toilet Vinegar, Vinaigre de Cologne
SECTION VI.
BOUQUETS AND NOSEGAYS.
Proposed Use of the Term "Otto" to denote the odoriferous Principle of
Plants
COMPOUND ODORS:--The Alhambra Perfume--The Bosphorus
Bouquet--Bouquet d'Amour--Bouquet des Fleurs du Val
d'Andorre--Buckingham Palace Bouquet--Délices--The Court
Nosegay--Eau de Chypre--The Empress Eugenie's
Nosegay--Esterhazy--Ess Bouquet--Eau de Cologne. (French and
English Spirit.) Flowers of Erin--Royal Hunt Bouquet--Extract of
Flowers--The Guards' Bouquet--Italian Nosegay--English Jockey
Club--French Jockey Club. (Difference of the Odor of English and
French Perfumes due to the Spirit of Grape and Corn Spirit.) A
Japanese Perfume--The Kew Garden Nosegay--Millefleurs--Millefleurs
et Lavender--Delcroix's Lavender--Marechale--Mousselaine--Bouquet
de Montpellier--Caprice de la Mode--May Flowers--Neptune, or Naval
Nosegay--Bouquet of all Nations--Isle of Wight Bouquet--Bouquet du
Roi--Bouquet de la Reine Victoria--Rondeletia. (Odors properly
blended produce new Fragrances.) Bouquet Royal--Suave--Spring
Flowers--Tulip Nosegay--The Wood Violet--Windsor Castle
Bouquet--Yacht Club Nosegay
SECTION VII.

The ancient Perfumes were only odoriferous Gums--Abstaining from
the Use of Perfumes a Sign of Humiliation--The Vase at Alnwick
Castle--Sachet Powders--Sachet au Chypre--Sachet à la
Frangipanne--Heliotrope Sachet--Lavender Sachet--Sachet à la
Maréchale--Mousselaine--Millefleur--Portugal Sachet--Patchouly
Sachet--Pot Pourri--Olla Podrida--Rose Sachet--Santal-wood
Sachet--Sachet (without a name)--Vervain Sachet--Vitivert--Violet
Sachet--Perfumed Leather--Russia Leather--Peau d'Espagne--Perfumed
Letter Paper--Perfumed Book-markers--Cassolettes, and Printaniers
Pastils--The Censer--Vase in the British Museum--Method of using the
Censer--Incense for Altar Service--Yellow Pastils--Dr. Paris's
Pastils--Perfumer's Pastils--Piesse's Pastils--Fumigation--The Perfume
Lamp--Incandescent Platinum--Eau à