Persia Revisited | Page 2

el Sultan, Bin el Sultan, Bin el Sultan. El Sultan,
Nasr-ed-Din Shah, Kajar_.'
'_The King, Son of the King, Son of the King, Son of the King. The
King, Nasr-ed-Din Shah, Kajar line_.'

* * * * *
PERSIA REVISITED

CHAPTER I.
--London to Baku --Oil-wells and works --Persians abroad --Caspian
steamers --Caspian salmon --Enzelli lagoon --The Jews in Persia
--Resht trade --'My eye' --Russian road --The tobacco 'strike,' 1891
--Collapse of Tobacco Régie --Moulla opposition.
The Persians, as a people still nomadic in their habits, and much given
to long pilgrimages, have good knowledge of the ways and means of
making a journey pleasant. Their saying, '_Avval rafîk, baad tarîk_'
(First a companion, then the road), is one which most travellers can
fully appreciate. Accordingly, when planning a trip in the autumn of
1895 to the Land of Iran, I cast about for a companion, and was
fortunate enough to meet with two friends, both going that way, and
who, moreover, like myself, had previously journeyed in Persia.
We decided to take the Odessa route to Batoum, and we went by Berlin,
Oderberg, and Lemberg. At Odessa we found that a less expensive, and
more comfortable, though perhaps half a day longer route, lies by
Warsaw. On that line there are fewer changes, and only one Customs
examination, whereas by, Oderberg there are two examinations,
Austrian and Russian. Moreover, through tickets are issued _viâ_
Warsaw, a convenience not provided _viâ_ Oderberg--fresh tickets and
re-booking of luggage being necessary there, and again both at Pod
Voloczyska and Voloczyska, on the Austrian and Russian frontiers. We
came in for a crowded train of first-class passengers going from the
Vienna direction to Jalta, a favourite seaside place in the Crimea, which
has two fashionable seasons--spring and autumn. These people were
making for the accelerated mail-steamer, which leaves Odessa for
Batoum every Wednesday during the summer service, touching at
Sebastopol, Jalta, and Novorossisk. We were making for the same
steamer, and found crowded cabins. The mass of luggage to be

examined at Voloczyska caused much confusion and delay, and it was
only by discreetly managed appeals to the working staff that we were
able to push our way and pass on, without anything being left behind.
There appeared to be orders for very special examination of books and
papers at Voloczyska, and these were carried out in a foolishly
perfunctory manner. In my luggage, the man who searched passed over
a bulky tourist writing-case, but carried off to a superior a Continental
Bradshaw, a blank notebook, and a packet of useful paper,
notwithstanding my open show of their innocence. The man soon
returned with another official, who smiled at the mistake, and good
naturedly helped to close up my baggage.
We began our journey well by a rapid run to Odessa, arriving there on
the day of departure of the fast boat, and landing at Batoum in six and a
half days from London. The steamers on this service are about 2,500
tons, 2,400 horse-power, with large accommodation for passengers.
The cabins are comfortable, and the saloons excellent and well served,
and all are lit with the electric light. These boats are, I believe,
Tyne-built. They are broad of beam, and behave well in bad weather.
Novorossisk is a growing great port, situated in a very pretty bay. It has
lately been joined by railway to the main trunk line connecting with
Moscow, and passing through Rostov. This connection enables it to
attract considerable trade from the Don and the Volga, and also to take
much from Rostov and Taganrog, when the Azov approaches are
closed with ice. A very fine sea-wall, to give effectual protection to the
railway loading-piers, and the shipping generally, is now being
completed at a total cost of £850,000. Novorossisk is said to have the
biggest 'elevator' in the world. The scenery all along the coast, from the
Crimea to Batoum, is very fine, and in autumn the voyage is most
enjoyable.
We left Batoum on the night of the day of our arrival. The departure of
the through train to Baku had been changed from morning to night, and
this allowed of travelling by day over that part of the line which before
used to be passed at night. We had previously seen Tiflis, and therefore
did not break our journey. The weather was warm, but not such as to
cause discomfort. As we approached Tiflis the carriages and buffets

became crowded to excess, with townspeople returning from
Saturday-to-Monday holiday, the fine weather having enticed them out
to various places along the line. The railway-carriages on the
Batoum-Baku line are very comfortable, and the refreshment-rooms are
frequent and well provided, so travelling there is made easy and
pleasant. The journey occupies thirty-two hours.
We reached Baku on September 16,