Persia Revisited

Persia Revisited

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Title: Persia Revisited
Author: Thomas Edward Gordon
Release Date: July 30, 2004 [EBook #13064]
Language: English
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PERSIA REVISITED
[Illustration: H.I.M. Nasr-ed-Din, The Late Shah, on the steps of the
Peacock Throne]
* * * * *
PERSIA REVISITED
(1895)
_WITH REMARKS ON H.I.M. MOZUFFER-ED-DIN SHAH, AND
THE PRESENT SITUATION IN PERSIA_
(1896)
BY

GENERAL SIR THOMAS EDWARD GORDON
K.C.I.E., C.B., C.S.I.
_Formerly Military Attaché and Oriental Secretary to Her Majesty's
Legation at Tehran._
Author of 'The Roof of the World'
ILLUSTRATED
* * * * *

PREFACE
On revisiting Tehran last autumn, I was struck with the evidence of
progress and improvement in Persia, and on returning home I formed
the idea of publishing a short account of my journey, with observations
and opinions which are based on my previous experiences, and have
reference also to what has been recorded by others. In carrying out this
idea, I have made use of information given in the well-known books on
Persia by Malcolm, Fraser, Watson and Curzon.
'Persia Revisited,' as first written, comprised up to
Chapter VI.
of the book; but just as I had finished it for publication, the sad news of
the assassination of the Shah, Nasr-ed-Din, was received. I then saw
that my book, to be complete, should touch on the present situation in
Persia, and accordingly I added two chapters which deal with the new
Shah and his brothers, and the Sadr Azem and the succession.
The illustrations are from photographs by M. Sevragine of Tehran, with
the exception of the likeness of H.I.M. the Shah Mozuffer-ed-Din, and
that of H.H. Ali Asghar Khan, Sadr Azem, which latter, by Messrs. W.
and D. Downey, of Ebury Street, London, is published by their kind
permission.
T.E. GORDON.
_May, 1896._

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I.

--London to Baku --Oil-wells and works --Persians abroad --Caspian
steamers --Caspian salmon --Enzelli lagoon --The Jews in Persia
--Resht trade --'My eye' --Russian road --The tobacco 'strike,' 1891
--Collapse of Tobacco Régie --Moulla opposition

CHAPTER II.
--The late Shah's long reign --His camp life --Habits --Appearance
--Persian Telegraph Intelligence Department --Farming the revenues
--Condition of the people --The shoe question --The Customs
--Importation of arms --Martini-Henry rifles --Indo-European telegraph

CHAPTER III.
--Kasvin grapes --Persian wine --Vineyards in Persia --Wine
manufacture --Mount Demavend --Afshar volcanic region
--Quicksilver and gold --Tehran water-supply --Village quarrels
--Vendetta --Tehran tramways --Bread riots --Mint and copper coin

CHAPTER IV.
--Religious tolerance in Tehran --Katie Greenfield's case --Babi sect
--Liberal opinions --German enterprise in Persia --Railways in Asia
Minor --Russian road extension --Railways to Persian frontiers --The
Karun River --Trade development --The Kajar dynasty --Life titles
--Chieftainship of tribes --Sanctuary --The Pearl cannon

CHAPTER V.
--The military tribes and the royal guard --Men of the people as great

monarchs --Persian sense of humour --Nightingales and poetry
--Legendary origin of the royal emblem --Lion and Sun --Ancient
Golden Eagle emblem --The Blacksmith's Apron the royal standard

CHAPTER VI.
--The Order of the Lion and the Sun --Rex and Dido --Dervishes
--Endurance of Persian horses --The Shah's stables --The sanctuary of
the stable --Long-distance races --A country of horses --The gymkhana
in Tehran --Olive industry near Resht --Return journey --Grosnoje oil
field --Russian railway travelling --Improved communication with
Tehran

CHAPTER VII.
THE SITUATION IN PERSIA (1896).
I.
--Shrine of Shah Abdul Azim --Death of Nasr-ed-Din Shah
--Jemal-ed-Din in Tehran --Shiahs and Sunnis --Islam in Persia

CHAPTER VIII.
THE SITUATION IN PERSIA (1896).
II.
--The Shah Mozuffer-ed-Din --His previous position at Tabriz
--Character and disposition --His sons --Accession to the throne
--Previous accessions in the Kajar-dynasty --Regalia and crown jewels
--Position of the late Shah's two sons, Zil-es-Sultan and

Naib-es-Sultaneh --The Sadr Azem (Grand Vazir) --Prompt action on
the death of the late Shah
* * * * *
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
H.I.M. NASR-ED-DIN, THE LATE SHAH, ON THE STEPS OF THE
PEACOCK THRONE
FEMALE PIPE-BEARER OF THE ANDERUN
PERSIAN LADY AT HOME
ARMENIAN MOTHER AND CHILDREN
THE PRESENT SHAH (WHEN VALI-AHD) ENTERING HIS
CARRIAGE
PERSIAN TURK OF THE MILITARY TRIBES
A MENDICANT DERVISH OF TEHRAN
A DERVISH STORY-TELLER OF TEHRAN
H.I.M. MOZUFFER-ED-DIN SHAH
H.H. ALI ASGHAR KHAN, SADR-AZEM
* * * * *
INSCRIPTION ON THE SEAL OF THE LATE SHAH, SHOWN ON
THE COVER.
'_El Sultan, Bin