Narrative of a Journey to the Shores of the Polar Sea, in the Years 1819-20-21-22, Volume 1 | Page 6

to any degree of
accuracy.
The fineness of the following day induced us to set up the different
instruments for examination, and to try how nearly the observations
made by each of them would agree; but a squall passed over just before
noon, accompanied by heavy rain, and the hoped-for favourable
opportunity was entirely lost. In the intervals between the observations,
and at every opportunity, my companions were occupied in those

pursuits to which their attention had been more particularly directed in
my instructions. Whilst Dr. Richardson was collecting and examining
the various specimens of marine plants, of which these islands furnish
an abundant and diversified supply, Mr. Back and Mr. Hood took views
and sketches of the surrounding scenery, which is extremely
picturesque in many parts, and wants only the addition of trees to make
it beautiful. The hills present the bold character of rugged sterility,
whilst the valleys, at this season, are clothed with luxuriant verdure.
It was not till the 14th, that, by appointment, the boatmen were to
assemble at the house of Mr. Geddes, to engage to accompany the
Expedition. Several persons collected, but to my great mortification, I
found they were all so strongly possessed with the fearful apprehension,
either that great danger would attend the service, or that we should
carry them further than they would agree to go, that not a single man
would engage with us; some of them, however, said they would
consider the subject, and give me an answer on the following day. This
indecisive conduct was extremely annoying to me, especially as the
next evening was fixed for the departure of the ships.
At the appointed time on the following morning, four men only
presented themselves, and these, after much hesitation, engaged to
accompany the Expedition to Fort Chipewyan, if they should be
required so far. The bowmen and steersmen were to receive forty
pounds' wages annually, and the middle men thirty-five pounds. They
stipulated to be sent back to the Orkney Islands, free of expense, and to
receive their pay until the time of arrival. Only these few men could be
procured, although our requisition had been sent to almost every island,
even as far as the northernmost point of Ronaldsha. I was much amused
with the extreme caution these men used before they would sign the
agreement; they minutely scanned all our intentions, weighed every
circumstance, looked narrowly into the plan of our route, and still more
circumspectly to the prospect of return. Such caution on the part of the
northern mariners forms a singular contrast with the ready and
thoughtless manner in which an English seaman enters upon any
enterprise, however hazardous, without inquiring, or desiring to know
where he is going, or what he is going about.

The brig Harmony, belonging to the Moravian Missionary Society, and
bound to their settlement at Nain, on the coast of Labrador, was lying at
anchor. With the view of collecting some Esquimaux words and
sentences, or gaining any information respecting the manners and
habits of that people, Doctor Richardson and myself paid her a visit.
We found the passengers, who were going out as Missionaries,
extremely disposed to communicate; but as they only spoke the
German and Esquimaux languages, of which we were ignorant, our
conversation was necessarily much confined: by the aid, however, of an
Esquimaux and German Dictionary, some few words were collected,
which we considered might be useful. There were on board a very
interesting girl, and a young man, who were natives of Disco, in Old
Greenland; both of them had fair complexions, rather handsome
features, and a lively manner; the former was going to be married to a
resident Missionary, and the latter to officiate in that character. The
commander of the vessel gave me a translation of the Gospel of St.
John in the Esquimaux language, printed by the Moravian Society in
London.
June 16.--The wind being unfavourable for sailing I went on shore with
Dr. Richardson, and took several lunar observations at the place of our
former residence. The result obtained was latitude 58° 56' 56"{4} N.;
longitude 3° 17' 55" W.; variation 27° 50' W.; dip of the magnetic
needle, 74° 33' 20". In the afternoon the wind changed in a squall some
points towards the north, and the Prince of Wales made the preparatory
signal for sea. At three P.M. the ships weighed, an hour too early for
the tide; as soon as this served we entered into the passage between
Hoy and Pomona, and had to beat through against a very heavy swell,
which the meeting of a weather tide and a strong breeze had
occasioned.
Some dangerous rocks lie near the Pomona shore, and on this side also
the tide appeared to run with the greatest strength. On clearing