Narrative of a Journey to the Shores of the Polar Sea, in the Years 1819-20-21-22, Volume 1 | Page 5

morning we passed the rugged and bold projecting rock,
termed Johnny Groat's house, and soon afterwards Duncansby Head,
and then entered the Pentland Firth. A pilot came from the main shore
of Scotland, and steered the ship in safety between the different islands,
to the outer anchorage at Stromness, though the atmosphere was too
dense for distinguishing any of the objects on the land. Almost
immediately after the ship had anchored, the wind changed to N.W., the
rain ceased, and a sight was then first obtained of the neighbouring

islands, and of the town of Stromness, the latter of which, from this
point of view, and at this distance, presented a pleasing appearance.
Mr. Geddes, the agent of the Hudson's Bay Company at this place,
undertook to communicate my wish for volunteer boatmen to the
different parishes, by a notice on the church-door, which he said was
the surest and most direct channel for the conveyance of information to
the lower classes in these islands, as they invariably attend divine
service there every Sunday. He informed me that the kind of men we
were in want of would be difficult to procure, on account of the very
increased demand for boatmen for the herring fishery, which had
recently been established on the shores of these islands; that last year,
sixty boats and four hundred men only were employed in this service,
whereas now there were three hundred boats and twelve hundred men
engaged; and that owing to this unexpected addition to the fishery, he
had been unable to provide the number of persons required for the
service of the Hudson's Bay Company. This was unpleasant
information, as it increased the apprehension of our being detained at
York Factory the whole winter, if boatmen were not taken from hence.
I could not therefore hesitate in requesting Mr. Geddes to engage eight
or ten men well adapted for our service, on such terms as he could
procure them, though the Secretary of State's permission had not yet
reached me.
Next to a supply of boatmen, our attention was directed towards the
procuring of a house conveniently situated for trying the instruments,
and examining the rates of the chronometers. Mr. Geddes kindly
offered one of his, which, though in an unfinished state, was readily
accepted, being well situated for our purpose, as it was placed on an
eminence, had a southern aspect, and was at a sufficient distance from
the town to secure us from frequent interruption. Another advantage
was its proximity to the Manse, the residence of the Rev. Mr. Clouston,
the worthy and highly respected minister of Stromness; whose kind
hospitality and the polite attention of his family, the party experienced
almost daily during their stay.
For three days the weather was unsettled, and few observations could

be made, except for the dip of the needle, which was ascertained to be
74° 37' 48", on which occasion a difference of eight degrees and a half
was perceived between the observations, when the face of the
instrument was changed from the east to the west, the amount being the
greatest when it was placed with the face to the west. But, on the 8th, a
westerly wind caused a cloudless sky, which enabled us to place the
transit instrument in the meridian, and to ascertain the variation of the
compass, to be 27° 50' west. The sky becoming cloudy in the afternoon,
prevented our obtaining the corresponding observations to those gained
in the morning; and the next day an impervious fog obscured the sky
until noon. On the evening of this day, we had the gratification of
welcoming our absent companion, Mr. Back. His return to our society
was hailed with sincere pleasure by every one, and removed a weight of
anxiety from my mind. It appears that he had come down to the beach
at Caistor, just as the ships were passing by, and had applied to some
boatmen to convey him on board, which might have been soon
accomplished, but they, discovering the emergency of his case,
demanded an exorbitant reward which he was not at the instant
prepared to satisfy; and, in consequence, they positively refused to
assist him. Though he had travelled nine successive days, almost
without rest, he could not be prevailed upon to withdraw from the
agreeable scene of a ball-room, in which he joined us, until a late hour.
On the 10th, the rain having ceased, the observations for ascertaining
the dip of the needle were repeated; and the results, compared with the
former ones, gave a mean of 74° 33' 20". Nearly the same differences
were remarked in reversing the face of the instrument as before. An
attempt was also made to ascertain the magnetic force, but the wind
blew too strong for procuring the observation