My Three Days In Gilead | Page 8

that the soldiers were there
to quell lawlessness. As I was the only tourist there I became an object
of special interest. Some of the men came to my dragoman, and only a
few words had passed until I knew that I was the subject of their
conversation. I could occasionally catch the word "hawadje," which
means "master," and I knew they were referring to me. Then they
would look at me and shake their heads. I was anxious to know what it
all meant, but had to be content with what my guide was pleased to tell
of it. He seemed to have gained his point, but he told me nothing except
to prepare for a hard trip, as a day's distance must be covered, if
possible, before nightfall. As we had already lost two days in
Damascus, I was not averse to trying something strenuous in order to
make up in part for that loss. I felt quite equal to the task, (though it
proved to be a severe ordeal,) when it was explained to me that it would
require a ride of more than forty miles to reach a safe halting-place for
the night. My guide had planned it; and I was committed to the plan.
After a hurried lunch, eaten in the tent of an Arab, I prepare for,--I
know not what. I put on my leggings and head-gear. Then I give over
my luggage, which consists of a suit-case, hand-grip, umbrella, and
alpenstock, to Haleel. I keep my overcoat, not because the weather is
cold,--it is hot,--but because I think I may possibly need it as a kind of
cushion for my saddle before the day is over. The need was felt, and

SORELY felt quite early in the afternoon; but most of the time we rode
too rapidly for my overcoat to supply the need,--it just would not stay
where I had hoped it might serve me well. So it happened that I was
destined to experience on that ride such misery as I had scarcely
thought one could endure. But, I anticipate.
We are ready. I am anxious to be going. I am delighted when my horse,
a beauty, indeed, and of pure Arabian stock, is led up by two dusky
sons of the desert. Surely my long trip to Jerusalem will be one of
pleasure when I am mounted on such a steed! At half-past twelve
o'clock we mount, and, facing to the south, we set off at a brisk pace for
Gerasa, (known to the Arabs as Jerash,) where it has been planned that
we shall spend the night. Several of the natives accompany us a short
distance on foot, one running on either side of my horse and holding to
the bridle; but soon, with interesting and graceful salaams, they leave
us to pursue our hot and dusty way alone.
There are just three of us, and we proceed in the following order: my
dragoman, who is guide and interpreter, leads the way; I follow next
after him; bringing up the rear is our muleteer, who takes charge of all
luggage, cares for the horses, and especially for,-- me. Why should I
not be happy? For the first time in my life I have two men engaged to
look after my wants. They did their duty well,--were almost painfully
attentive at times. But to-day I thank them for their kind severity.
Not having spent more than a few hours on horse-back in the previous
ten years, I found, after riding a few miles, that it required more than a
beautiful horse to make riding comfortable to an inexperienced rider.
But our way led through such a beautiful valley, and on either hand
were mountains so suggestive of Bible narrative that there was much in
the earlier part of the afternoon to divert my attention from any
physical discomfort. Where we were riding there was no road,--simply
bridle-paths, and frequently not even a path.
After we had been riding for an hour a young Arab on camel-back
joined us. I did not like his searching looks from a face almost hidden
in his head-garment. But he stayed with us for a half-hour, and in that
time had raced his camel with our horses; then he suddenly turned from

us toward the near mountains of Gilead. We met a number of caravans
in the earlier part of the afternoon, and I noted that every man that I
saw carried a gun, or some sort of sword, or large knife. They were
ready for defense, if occasion should arise.
About two o'clock we passed a "memorial heap," or cairn. Some
tragedy occurred there, and the custom of the region is that the
passer-by places reverently on the pile of rocks already formed an
additional stone.