My Three Days In Gilead | Page 7

have little opportunity for a close examination.
The most noted ruins that I see are at Sunamein and at Mezarib. But
those who have pressed farther east, and who have made a careful study
of the best preserved of these "rock cities" of Bashan, tell us that
everything about them is of stone- doors, gates, windows, stairs, rafters,
galleries, cupboards, benches, and even candlesticks. So perfectly
preserved are some of these "dead cities," that of one, Salcah, Doctor
Porter says that some five hundred of the houses are still standing, and
that "from three hundred to four hundred families might settle in it at
any moment without laying a stone or expending an hour's labor on
repairs." Of Beth-gamul another traveler says in part: "The houses were
some of them very large, consisting usually of three rooms on the
ground floor, and two on the first story, the stairs being formed of large
stones built in the house walls, and leading up outside. The doors were,
as usual, of stone; sometimes folding doors, and some of them highly
ornamental. I wandered about quite alone in the old streets of the
town--entered one by one the old houses, went up-stairs, visited the
rooms, and, in short, made a careful examination of the whole place;
but so perfect was every street, every house, every room, that I almost
fancied I was in a dream, wandering alone in this city of the dead,
seeing all perfect, yet not hearing a sound. "Much of the work in most
of these cities is on such a large scale as to indicate that the houses
were built by, and intended for a race of giants. When we think of these
fortresses of strength defended by their mighty occupants, and
remember that they were probably in existence at the time of the

exodus of the Israelites from Egyptian bondage, the victories of Moses
gained here become sublime.
We are nearing Mezarib. All forenoon has been consumed in covering
a distance of only about fifty miles. But by twelve o'clock we have
passed almost completely across the land where Og was king,
especially that part of his kingdom which, not long after being wrested
from him and his giant followers, was assigned to the eastern half-tribe
of Manasseh for a permanent possession.
Before leaving Beyrout my dragoman telegraphed to Jerusalem for a
muleteer and three horses to be sent to this railroad terminus. Must we
be disappointed in this! We are both solicitous. My guide is leaning far
out of the car window long before the train stops to learn, if possible,
whether or not his order has been obeyed. I watch that dark, anxious,
perplexed face with much solicitude. Ah, he smiles! The sunshine of
satisfaction chases the clouds of anxiety and doubt from his
countenance, and that dark face looks beautiful to me. He is happy, and
I share in his happiness. Our muleteer and horses are awaiting us.

"Among Bedouins"

CHAPTER III.
At twelve o'clock our train stopped. I was quickly introduced to him
who had been awaiting us, and who was now to join our party--
"Haleel," of Jerusalem. He was dressed in typical Eastern fashion,
wearing the wide pantaloons, flowing robe, and "kufiyeh"; he was
apparently twenty-five years old, dark-skinned, and blind in one eye; he
could not speak a word of English; and he was a devout Mohammedan.
"Haleel, of Jerusalem!" Notwithstanding his fantastic appearance, the
name and place of residence seemed to me a blending of mystery and
sacredness. I did not hesitate to extend a cordial greeting, and his smile
of confused interest as I tried to shake hands with him while he tried to
give me an Oriental salutation won me to him. It was his only
intelligible language to me, but it was sufficient to give me assurance

of his friendship, and I was beginning to feel that from that hour I
should need friends. The salutation that Haleel offered to me was a
quick, graceful movement of his hand toward my feet, next to his lips,
and then lightly to his forehead. I had seen the natives do this in
exchanging salutations, and now that it had been offered to me I sought
an interpretation. My guide explained that Haleel meant to tell me that
he felt so honored in meeting me, that he "would take the dust from my
feet, would kiss it, and then place it on his forehead." Beautiful
sentiment! Had I ever previously in my life been so honored in meeting
any one!
The greeting over, I noticed unusual movements about the station.
Many Turkish soldiers were there. They stood about in groups engaged
in animated conversation. Upon inquiry I learned that the feuds so
common in that region were again "on," and