In the Forbidden Land | Page 3

range--Bird's-eye view of Tibet--Rubso frozen almost to death--The Lumpiya Pass--Two coolies in distress Pp. 148-153
XXVI Mysterious footprints--Brigand or spy?--Passes and tracks--Intense cold--No fuel--A high flat plateau--Fuel at last!--Two spies in disguise--What they took us for Pp. 154-157
XXVII Lama Chokden--A Tibetan guard--The sacred Kelas--Reverence of my men for the sacred Mountain--Trying hard to keep friends with the gods--Obos--Water flowing to us Pp. 158-161
XXVIII An extensive valley--Kiang, or wild horse--Their strange ways--The Gyanema fort--Apprehension at our appearance--A parley--"Cut off our heads!"--Revolt and murder contemplated--Hypocritica ways of Tibetan officials--Help summoned from everywhere--Preparing for war Pp. 162-166
XXIX Arrival of a high official--The Barca Tarjum--A tedious palaver--The Tarjum's anxiety--Permission to proceed--A traitor--Entreated to retrace our steps--Thirty armed horsemen--A pretty speech Pp. 167-173
XXX Spying our movements--Disguised sepoys--A gloomy look-out--Troublesome followers--Another march back--An amusing incident Pp. 174-177
XXXI An attempt that failed--A resolution--A smart Shoka lad--The plucky Chanden Sing proposes to accompany me--Mansing the leper becomes my servant's servant Pp. 178-181
XXXII "Devil's Camp"--A fierce snowstorm--Abandoning our tents--Dangers and perils in prospect--Collecting the men--One load too many!--Another man wanted and found--A propitious night--Good-bye to Wilson--The escape--Brigands Pp. 182-186
XXXIII S.E. wind--Hungry and half frozen--Lakes at 18,960 feet above sea-level--Cold food at high altitudes--Buried in snow--Mansing's sufferings--Fuel at last Pp. 187-191
XXXIV Dacoits--No nonsense allowed--A much-frequented region--A plateau--The Gyanema-Taklakot track--A dangerous spot--Soldiers waiting for us--Burying our baggage--Out of provisions--A fall into the Gakkon River--A bright idea--Nettles our only diet Pp. 192-197
XXXV All that remained of my men's provisions--The plan to enter the fort--Appearance of yaks--A band of brigands--Erecting fortifications--Changes in the temperature--Soldiers in search of us Pp. 198-201
XXXVI "Terror Camp"--Two more messengers leave camp--A tribe of Dogpas--A strange sahib--Our messengers return from Taklakot--The account and adventures of their mission--In great distress--Two fakirs who suffered through me--Five hundred rupees offered for my head--The Shokas want to abandon me--A plot--How it failed Pp. 202-206
XXXVII A Tibetan guard's encampment--Nattoo volunteers to be a guide--Treachery and punishment of the Shokas--All ways forward barred to me--Evading the soldiers by another perilous march at night--Mansing again lost--A marvellous phenomenon--Sufferings of my men--Severe cold Pp. 207-210
XXXVIII Night marching--The Lafan and Mafan Lakes--Tize, the sacred Kelas--Rhubarb--Butterflies--A hermit Lama--More Dacoits--Surrounded by them--Routed Pp. 211-216
XXXIX Spied and followed by robbers--Jogpas' hospitality--Hares--Tibetan charms resisted--Attempt to snatch Chanden Sing's rifle out of his hands--The ridge between the Rakas and Mansarowar Lakes Pp. 217-219
XL More robbers--The friends of Tibetan authorities--A snap-shot--A meek lot--Prepossessing female and her curious ways--The purchase of two yaks Pp. 220-224
XLI Tibetan coats, hats, and boots--Why a Tibetan prefers to leave half the chest and one arm bare--Ornamentations--Manner and speech--Ignorance and superstition--Way of eating--Jogpa women and children--Head-dress Pp. 225-230
XLII A Daku's strange ideas--The ridge between the two lakes--Black tents--Confronting the two lakes--A chain of high peaks--Gombas--Change in the weather Pp. 231-234
XLIII The Langa Tsangpo--A terrific storm--Drenched to the skin--Heavy marching--Against the gods--Difficulty in finding the Lamasery and village--A bark!--Arrival at last--Gentle tapping--Under a roof Pp. 235-238
XLIV The interior of a serai--Vermin--Fish, local jewellery, and pottery for sale--Favourite shapes and patterns--How pottery is made Pp. 239-241
XLV Friendly Lamas--Chanden Sing and Mansing purified--Mansing's sarcasm--Pilgrims to Mansarowar and their privileges--For luck!--Outside the Gomba Pp. 242-244
XLVI Entering the Lamasery--The Lama's dwelling--Novices--Were we in a trap?--Images--Oblations--Urghin--The holy water, the veil of friendship, and absolution--Musical instruments, books, &c.--God and the Trinity--Heaven and hell--A mystery Pp. 245-248
XLVII The Jong Pen's statements regarding me--Sects of Lamas--Lamaseries--Government allowance--Ignorance of the crowds--How Lamas are recruited--Lamas, novices, and menials--Dances and hypnotism--Infallibility--Celibacy and vice--Sculptors--Prayer-wheels and revolving instruments--Nunneries--Human bones for eating vessels and musical instruments--Blood-drinking Pp. 249-256
XLVIII Illnesses and remedies--Curious theories about fever--Evil spirits--Blacksmith and dentist--Exorcisms--Surgical operations--Massage and cupping--Incurable illnesses--Deformities--Deafness--Fits and insanity--Melancholia--Suicides Pp. 257-264
XLIX A Tibetan medicine-man--Lumbago, and a startling cure for it--Combustible fuses--Fire and butter--Prayers, agony and distortions--Strange ideas on medicine Pp. 265-267
L Tucker village--Chokdens--Houses--Flying prayers--Soldiers or robbers?--A stampede--Fresh provisions--Disappointment--Treachery--Shokas leave me--Observations--Five men, all counted! Pp. 268-270
LI The start with a further reduced party--A reconnaissance--Natural fortress--Black tents and animals--On the wrong tack--Slings and their use--A visit to a Tibetan camp--Mistaken for brigands--Bargaining and begging Pp. 271-275
LII What the men were like--Their timidity--Leather work--Metal work--Blades and swords--Filigree--Saddles and harness--Pack saddles Pp. 276-279
LIII Rain in torrents--A miserable night--A gorge--A gigantic inscription--Sheltered under boulders--A fresh surprise--Only two followers left Pp. 280-282
LIV My time fully occupied--Our own yak drivers--A heavy blow--Along the stream--Soldiers in pursuit of us--Discovered Pp. 283-286
LV An interview--Peace or war?--Gifts and the scarf of friendship--The Kata--The end of a friendly visit Pp. 287-289
LVI Rain in torrents--A swampy plain--The sun at last--Our yaks stolen and recovered Pp. 290-294
LVII Travelling Tibetans--Over a high pass--A friendly meeting--A proffered banquet--Ascent to 20,000 feet--Looking for the Gunkyo Lake--Surprised by a phantom army Pp. 295-297
LVIII A sleepless night--Watching our enemy--A picturesque sight--A messenger--Soldiers from Lhassa--Taken for a Kashmeree--The Gunkyo Lake Pp. 298-301
LIX In pleasant company--Unpopularity of the Lamas--Soldiers--Towards the Maium Pass--Grass--Threats--Puzzled Tibetans--The Maium Pass--Obos Pp. 302-305
LX The Maium Pass--Into the Yutzang province--Its capital--The Doktol province--Orders disregarded--The sources of the Brahmaputra--Change in