In the Forbidden Land | Page 2

the Trigonometrical Survey, and so are the positions fixed by astronomical observations of the starting and terminating points of my surveys at the places where I entered and left Tibet.
In the orthography of geographical names I have adopted the course advised by the Royal Geographical Society--viz., to give the names their true sound as they are locally pronounced, and I have made no exception even for the grand and poetic "Himahlya" which is in English usually distorted into the unmusical and unromantic word "Himalayas."
I submit with all deference the following geographical results of my expedition:
The solution of the uncertainty regarding the division of the Mansarowar and Rakstal Lakes.
The ascent to so great an altitude as 22,000 feet, and the pictures of some of the great Himahlyan glaciers.
The visit to and the fixing of the position of the two principal sources of the Brahmaputra, never before reached by a European.
The fact that with only two men I was able to travel for so long in the most populated part of Tibet.
In addition to the above, I am glad to state that owing to the publicity which I gave on my return to the outrageous Tibetan abuses taking place on British soil, the Government of India at last, in the summer of 1898, notified the Tibetan authorities that they will no longer be permitted to collect Land Revenue from British subjects there. This fact gives me special satisfaction, because of the exceptional courtesy and kindness bestowed on me by our mountain tribesmen, the Shokas.
The Government Report of the official Investigation of my case, as well as other documents substantiating the details of my narrative, are printed in an appendix.
A. H. S. L.
May 1899

CONTENTS
PREFACE p. ix
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS p. xxii
I FROM LONDON TO NAINI TAL Pp. 1-3
II Loads--A set of useful pack-saddle cases--Provisions and scientific outfit--Clothes and shoes--Medicines--Under way--The first march--Servants--How I came to employ faithful Chanden Sing pp. 4-10
III Pithoragarh--Fakir women--A well-ventilated abode--Askote--The Rajiwar and his people Pp. 11-16
IV The Raots--A slippery journey--Superstitious notions--Anger and jealousy--Friends--To the homes of the savages--Photography--Habitations Pp. 17-26
V A pilgrim from Mansarowar Lake--The spirits of the mountains--A safeguard against them--Tibetan encampments--The Rajiwar--A waterfall--Watermills Pp. 27-34
VI Highways and trade routes--The Darma route--The Dholi River--A rough track connecting two valleys--Glaciers--Three ranges and their peaks--Altitudes--Darma, Johar, and the Painkhanda Parganas--The highest peak in the British Empire--Natural boundaries Pp. 35-40
VII The word Bhot and its meaning--Tibetan influence--Tibetan abuses--The ever-helpful Chanden Sing--The first Shoka village--Chanden Sing in disgrace--Weaving-loom--Fabrics--All's well that ends well Pp. 41-45
VIII Prayers by wind-power--Photography under difficulties--A night of misery--Drying up--Two lady missionaries--Their valuable work--An interesting dinner party--An "eccentric" man's tea party Pp. 46-52
IX Discouraging reports--A steep ascent--How I came to deserve the name of "monkey"--Hard at work--Promoted in rank--Collapse in a gale of wind--Time and labour lost Pp. 53-56
X The Nerpani, or "waterless track"--Exaggerated accounts--A long shot--The rescue of two coolies--Picturesque Nature--An involuntary shower-bath--The Chai Pass Pp. 57-62
XI A series of misfortunes--Tibetan atrocities on British subjects--Tibetan exactions--Revolting cruelty to one of her Majesty's subjects--Assault on a British officer--A smart British Envoy Pp. 63-68
XII Tibetan threats--My birthday--Ravenous dogs--A big dinner--Shoka hospitality Pp. 69-73
XIII Shoka hospitality--How I obtained much information--On a reconnoitring trip--A terrible slide Pp. 74-80
XIV A palaver--To see is to believe--Dangers and perils on the snow and ice--Thar and Ghural--Stalking--A tiring climb to 16,000 feet--The collapse of a snow bridge Pp. 81-85
XV An earthquake--Curious notions of the natives--A Shoka tailor and his ways--The arrival of silver cash--Two rocks in the Kali--Arrogance of a Tibetan spy Pp. 86-91
XVI The Rambang--Shoka music--Love-songs--Doleful singing--Abrupt ending--Solos--Smoking--When marriage is contemplated--The Delang--Adultery--Punishment Pp. 92-97
XVII FUNERAL RITES: Departure of the Soul--Cremation--Amusement of the dead man's soul--The lay figure--Feasting--Doleful dance--Transmigration of the soul--Expensive ceremonies--Offerings before the lay figure--Dancing and contortions--Martial dances--Solo dances--The animal to be sacrificed and the lay figure--Chasing the animal from the village--Tearing out its heart--The yak driven over a precipice--Head shaving--A sacred cave Pp. 98-110
XVIII Touching Shoka farewell--Feelings curiously expressed--Sobs and tears--The start--A funereal procession--Distressed father and mother--Kachi and Dola the worse for drink--Anxious moments--The bridge destroyed Pp. 111-115
XIX A dangerous track--Perilous passage--A curious bridge over a precipice--Pathetic Shoka custom--Small misadventures--A grand reception--Tea for all tastes Pp. 116-119
XX Dr. Wilson joins my expedition for a few marches--What misdeeds a photographic camera can do--Weighing, dividing, and packing provisions--Two extra men wanted--The last friendly faces Pp. 120-122
XXI The Kuti Castle--Under way--Our first disaster--A cheerful and a sulky coolie--Mansing--A brigand--A strange medley of followers--A character--Tailoring--Fields of stones--Troublesome rivers--The Jolinkan or Lebung Pass--Sense of humour--Pleased with small comforts Pp. 123-130
XXII Want of fuel--Cooking under difficulty--Mansing lost and found--Saved from summary justice--Tibetan visitors--We purchase sheep--The snow-line--Cold streams--The petrified chapati and human hand Pp. 131-136
XXIII The scout's return--A small exploring party--The Mangshan glacier Pp. 137-140
XXIV Snow and troublesome débris--The doctor's sufferings--Kachi disabled--Further trials--A weird apparition--Delirium--All safe--The descent Pp. 141-147
XXV The sources of the Kuti River--The Lumpiya glacier--The summit of the