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objects. Probably the easiest and least expensive method of temporarily
preserving entire the smaller animals, birds, fish and reptiles is by
immersion in the above preparation.
I would not advise its use on animals larger than a small fox or cat, and
to insure an immediate penetration of the flesh the abdominal viscera
should be removed from the larger specimens. The amount of solution
used should be about ten times the volume of the subject, and it had
best be replaced with fresh liquid after two or three days. I think this
will work equally well on birds, reptiles and mammals.
On removal from the solution they may be skinned and mounted as
fresh specimens. On removing from the solution, rinse in water
containing a little ammonia to neutralize the irritating odor of the
formaldehyde. Do not stand over the solution while mixing as the
fumes of the formic acid affect the eyes. The condensed form in which
this chemical can be carried and its cheapness (30c. per lb.), make it
desirable as a temporary preservative. The saying, "It never rains but it
pours," applies to the taxidermist and a sudden rush of subjects may
often be saved by using the foregoing preparation. Other work may be
under way, or for other reasons it may be desirable to keep a specimen
in the flesh a short time before mounting.
ALCOHOLIC SOLUTION.
Alcohol (94% strength) Equal parts Water
If alcohol is less than 94% use less water. Use same as formaldehyde
solution. This is said to be superior to the formaldehyde solution,

though more expensive and harder to carry about on account of its
greater bulk before mixing.
Specimens kept long in any liquid are apt to lose their colors. This
fading will be reduced to a minimum if kept in the dark.
In order to do any satisfactory work on quadrupeds the taxidermist
makes use of a bath or pickle of some sort for keeping skins in a wet
state. This pickle sets the hair and in a measure tans the skin, reducing
its liability to shrinkage and rendering it less desirable pasturage for
insects.
All furred skins of any size should be immersed in this for a time
before mounting, and may be kept in it for months or years without
injury. If you have time to skin an animal properly the skin may be
dropped in the pickle jar and in a day, week, or month be better fit for
final mounting than at first.
For the first few days it is necessary to move it about every day so all
parts may be exposed to the action of the pickle. The form of pickle
which I have found most helpful is:
TANNING LIQUOR.
Water 1 gal. Salt 1 qt. Sulphuric acid (measure) 1 oz.
Bring to boiling point to dissolve the salt. Allow to cool before stirring
in the acid. When cold is ready for use.
When keeping skins in a wet state a long time I would prefer to use:
SALT AND ALUM PICKLE.
Water 1 gal. Salt 1 qt. Alum 1 pt.
Boil to dissolve salt and alum; use like preceding.
If skins are to be kept some time they should, after a preliminary
pickling, be put in new, fresh pickle and it should be occasionally

tested with a salinometer and kept up to the original strength. Dirty and
greasy pickle should be thrown away, but if clean and of low strength it
can be brought up by adding new pickle of extra strength. It will do no
hurt if more salt, even a saturated solution, is made of either of the
foregoing.
While the salt and alum or acid pickle will keep our animal skins safely
and in a relaxed condition ready for further preparation at any time, it
will not answer for bird skins. For this we have a solution for keeping
bird skins soft:
Glycerine 2 parts Carbolic acid 1 part
After skinning the bird and applying some arsenical solution to the
inside, brush this solution liberally over the entire inside of the skin.
Pay special attention to the bones, wing and leg, skull and root of the
tail. If necessary the skin may be packed flat for shipment. One
treatment will keep all but the larger skins soft for several months. The
feet, of course, will become hard and dry and must be relaxed as usual
before mounting.
Every taxidermist needs to be more or less of a modeler, and one of the
most useful materials is:
PAPIER MACHE.
Wet wood pulp 10 oz. Glue (hot) or LePage's (measure) 3 oz. Plaster
paris, dry 20 oz.
This formula may be varied at the convenience of the operator. Work
the glue into the pulp and knead the plaster into the mass. The more
glue