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danger to the operator in handling the needful amount
of poisons than in endeavoring to save some rare but over-ripe subject.
In many years' use of arsenic, dry, in wet solution, and in soap, I have
received nothing more serious than an occasional sore finger.
The shape in which I have found it most satisfactory for poisoning hair
and feathers of mounted specimens and the interior of furred skins I
will give as
ARSENICAL SOLUTION.
Commercial arsenic 1 lb. Bicarbonate of soda 1/2 lb. Water 5 pts.
Boil until arsenic and soda have dissolved, stirring frequently. Use a

vessel at least twice as large as necessary to contain the quantity used
as it foams up while boiling. When cold put in a large bottle or jar
marked Poison, of course. For poisoning finished specimens, mounted
heads, etc., take one part of this solution to two parts water and spray
the entire surface with this in an atomizer or larger sprayer. It should be
tested before using by dipping a black feather in it and if a gray or
white deposit is left on drying, it should be diluted still further until this
is prevented.
To poison the inside of skins we make Arsenical Paste: Arsenical
Solution (full strength), whiting sufficient to produce the consistency of
cream. This should be mixed in a wide mouthed bottle or small pan and
applied with a common paint brush. Do not apply to a perfectly dry
skin, like tanned hide for a robe or rug, but dampen the inside first with
clear water, then paint over with the paste and it will strike through to
the fur side and be taken up around the fur roots by capillary action.
This tends to put a damper on the activities of the moth, whose favorite
grazing ground is at the hair roots just outside the skin.
The paste is equally good on skins of birds, except, perhaps the smaller
ones, when freshly skinned, and some of the smaller mammals. The
mixture of whiting makes it easy to see when the surface has already
been treated, unless the skin is dressed white, in which case dry ochre
may be used in place of whiting.
For poisoning the skins of the smaller furred animals and all but the
larger birds:
DRY PRESERVATIVE.
Powdered white arsenic Powdered alum
Mix equal parts by measure and apply to inside of the fresh skin with a
soft brush or pad of cotton. If during the skinning and cleaning the skin
has dried so the powder will not stick, moisten the inside of the skin
with water before applying. Some taxidermists prefer to use in place of
the paste some form of Arsenical Soap. This may be purchased from
the supply dealer or made at home at quite a reduction. Personally I

dislike the greasy, sticky feel of it; it is apt to cling around the finger
nails and scratches, making them sore.
However, the following is the best formula for a time honored
preservative:
HORNADAY'S ARSENICAL SOAP.
White bar soap 1 lb. Powdered arsenic 1 lb. Camphor gum 2-1/2 oz.
Subcarbonate of potash 3 oz. Alcohol (wood or grain) 4 oz.
Slice the soap and melt slowly with a little water. When melted stir in
the potash and arsenic. Boil to the consistency of molasses and pour
into a jar to harden. Add the camphor already dissolved in the alcohol
and stir occasionally while cooling. Mix with water and apply with a
paint brush to flesh side of skins.
In case one is timid about using any of the arsenical preparations I
would advise them to try
BROWNE'S NON-POISONOUS PRESERVATIVE SOAP.
Whiting 24 oz. White soap 8 oz. Chloride lime 1/2 oz. Tincture
camphor 1 oz. Water 1 pt.
Shave the soap thin and boil it with the whiting and water till dissolved.
Then remove from the fire and stir in the chloride, adding the tincture
camphor later when cold, as much of the strength of the latter would be
lost were the mixture hot.
Keep in closed jars or bottles, and if too thick, thin down with water or
alcohol. Apply like arsenical soap or paste. This is highly
recommended by English writers. For a non-poisonous powder I would
advise equal parts of powdered alum and insect powder in place of the
arsenic and alum.
SOLUTION FOR THE PRESERVATION OF SMALL SPECIMENS
ENTIRE.

Formaldehyde (40% strength) 1 part Water 9 parts
Mix thoroughly and put in glass or earthen jars or large mouthed
bottles.
While most of the heads and skins of big game are preserved until they
can reach the taxidermist, many of the smaller specimens become a
total loss. Lack of time and knowledge are the chief causes of this loss
of valuable souvenirs of days out of doors and interesting natural