Fields of Victory | Page 3

and Souchez; and that long line of Notre Dame de Lorette,
with the Bois de Bouvigny to the west of it--where I stood among
Canadian batteries just six weeks before the battle of Arras in 1917.
The lamentable ruin of once beautiful Arras, the desolation of Douai,
and the villages between it and Valenciennes, the wanton destruction of
what was once the heart of Cambrai, and that grim scene of the broken
bridge on the Cambrai--Bapaume road, over the Canal du Nord, where
we got out on a sombre afternoon, to look and look again at a landscape
that will be famous through the world for generations: they rise again,
with the sharpness of no ordinary recollection, on the inward vision. So
too Bourlon Wood, high and dark against the evening sky; the
unspeakable desolation and ruin of the road thence to Bapaume;
Bapaume itself, under the moon, its poor huddled heaps lit only, as we
walked about it, by that strange, tranquil light from overhead, and the

lamps of our standing motor-car; some dim shapes and sights emerging
on the long and thrice-famous road from Bapaume to Albert, first, the
dark mound of the Butte de Warlencourt, with three white crosses on
its top, and once a mysterious light in a fragment of a ruined house, the
only light I saw on the whole long downward stretch from Bapaume to
Albert. Then the church of Albert, where the hanging Virgin used to be
in 1917, hovering above a town that for all the damage done to it was
then still a town of living men, and is now a place so desolate that one
shrinks from one's own voice in the solitude, and so wrecked that only
the traffic directions here and there, writ large, seem to guide us
through the shapeless heaps that once were streets. And, finally, the
scanty lights of Amiens, marking the end of the first part of our
journey.
These were the sights of the first half of our journey. And as they recur
to me, I understand so well the anxious and embittered mood of France,
which was so evident a month ago;[2] though now, I hope,
substantially changed by the conditions of the renewed Armistice. No
one who has not seen with his or her own eyes the situation in Northern
France can, it seems to me, realise its effects on the national feeling of
the country. And in this third journey of mine, I have seen much more
than Northern France. In a motor drive of some hundreds of miles,
from Metz to Strasburg, through Nancy, Toul, St. Mihiel, Verdun,
Châlons, over the ghastly battle-fields of Champagne, through Rheims,
Chateau-Thierry, Vaux, to Paris, I have always had the same spectacle
under my eyes, the same passion in my heart. If one tried to catch and
summarise the sort of suppressed debate that was going on round one, a
few weeks ago, between Allied opinion that was trying to reassure
France, and the bitter feeling of France herself, it seemed to fall into
something like the following dialogue:
[2] These pages were written in the first week of February.
"All is well. The Peace Conference is sitting in Paris."
"Yes--but what about France?"
"President Wilson and Mr. Lloyd George have gradually brought the

recalcitrant elements into line. The League of Nations is a reality."
"Yes--but what about France? Has the President been to see these
scores of ruined towns, these hundreds of wiped-out villages, these
fantastic wrecks of mines and factories, these leagues on leagues of
fruitful land given back to waste, these shell-blasted forests, these
broken ghosts of France's noblest churches?"
"The President has made a Sunday excursion from Paris to Rheims. He
saw as much as a winter day of snow and fog would allow him to see.
France must be patient. Everything takes time."
"Yes!--so long as we can be sure that the true position is not only
understood, but felt. But our old, rich, and beautiful country, with all
the accumulations on its soil of the labour, the art, the thought of
uncounted generations, has been in this war the buffer between German
savagery and the rest of Europe. Just as our armies bore the first brunt
and held the pass, till civilisation could rally to its own defence, so our
old towns and villages have died, that our neighbours might live secure.
We have suffered most in war--we claim the first thought in peace. We
live in the heart and on the brink of danger. Our American Allies have a
No Man's Land of the Atlantic between them and the formidable and
cruel race which has wreaked this ruin, and is already beginning to
show a Hydra-like power of recuperation, after its defeat; we have only
a river, and