Byeways in Palestine | Page 7

repaired at different periods. I entered one rock-hewn sepulchre which contained seven small chambers; six of these had been evidently broken into by main force, the seventh was still closed. This was S.W. of the Acropolis.
All the works or ornamentations above ground were of Greek or Roman construction, but we found no inscriptions or coins. Heshbon must have been at all periods a strong place for defence, but with an unduly large proportion of ornamentation to the small size of the city according to modern ideas. Before leaving this site, far inferior to 'Amman, as we found afterwards, I got the Arabs around me upon a rising ground, and, with a compass in hand, wrote down from their dictation the names of sites visible to their sharp eyesight:--
To To S.S.W. Umm Sheggar. S.E.S. Kustul. " Neba (Nebo?). S.E. Umm el 'Aamed. " Main. " Khan em Meshettah. S. Medeba. " Jawah. S.E.S. Ekfairat " Kuriet es Sook. (Kephiroth?). " Jelool. E. Samek. " Umm er Rumaneh. E.E.N. Ela'al. " Zubairah. N. Es-Salt. " Manjah. (The town not visible.)
These must have been the places that "stood under the shadow of Heshbon," (Jer. xlviii. 45.) One of them at least appears in Joshua xiii. 17, etc., among "the cities that are in the plain of Heshbon." {17}
In half an hour we came to Ela'al, (Elealeh,) (Isa. xv. 4 and xvi. 9, and Jer. xlviii. 34.) Large stones were lying about, and one column standing upright, but without a capital. Fine corn-plains in every direction around. Our tents pitched at Na'oor were visible to the E.N.E. through an opening between two hills. Cool cloudy day; all of us enjoying the ride through wheat-fields, and over large unoccupied plains--my old friend 'Abdu'l 'Azeez still adhering to me as his willing auditor.
On coming up to his camp at Na'oor, we found that Shaikh Deab had already arrived.
And now I may pause in the narrative to describe the status of (1.) ourselves; (2.) the Arabs.
(1.) Although apparently forming one company of English travellers, we were really a combination of several small sets, of two or three persons each--every set having its own cook, muleteer, and dragoman; but all the sets on terms of pleasant intercourse, and smoking or taking tea with each other.
We calculated that our horses and mules amounted to above a hundred in number.
(2.) The whole territory from Kerak to Jerash is that of our 'Adwan tribe, but divided into three sections--the middle portion being that of the supreme chief Deab, the northern third that of 'Abdu'l 'Azeez, and the southern that of a third named Altchai in the south towards Kerak; but they all combine when necessary for a general object.
The 'Adwan sow corn by the labour of their purchased slaves. Gublan at Cuferain, Deab and his son 'Ali at Nimrin, and a portion of the tribe called "the children of Eyoob" cultivate in the same manner a tract near the Dead Sea called the Mezraa'. These latter attach themselves sometimes to the Deab section, called the Dar 'Ali, and sometimes to the Gublan section, called the Dar Nim'r.
Their district is but a comparatively narrow strip at present, as they are pressed upon by the Beni Sukh'r on the east, who are again pressed upon by the 'Anezeh farther eastward; these last are allies of our people.
The Ghor or Jordan plain is open ground for all Arabs; and a few low fellows called Abbad Kattaleen, hold a slip of ground downwards between Es-Salt and the Jordan. Es-Salt is a populous and thriving town, the only one in all that country. Kerak, to the south, may be as large, and contain more remnants of mediaeval strength, but its affairs are not so prosperous.
This station of Na'oor {19} is upon a long, low, green plain, lying between two lines of high ground; and on a map, it would be nearly central between the northern and southern extremities of the 'Adwan country, or Belka. {20}
Strange and wild was the scene of the Bedawi encampment--the black tents of goats' hair, the dark and ragged population sauntering about, the flocks and the horses, the ragged or naked children; and then the women in their blue, only article of dress, long-sleeved, their uncombed hair, and lips dyed blue, all walking with dignity of step, most of them employed in hanging up washed fleeces of wool to dry. One in particular I remarked for her stately appearance, with the blue dress trailing long behind, and the sleeves covering her hands; she was giving commands to others.
As soon as we were well settled, and the first confusion over in making our several arrangements with servants, etc., Shaikh Deab sent a messenger asking permission for him to pay us a visit of welcome; and a serious ceremonial visit took place accordingly. The