A Residence in France | Page 3

XXI.
Embark in the Winkelried.--Discussion with an Englishman.--The Valais.--Free Trade.--The Drance.--Terrible Inundation.--Liddes.--Mountain Scenery.--A Mountain Basin.--Dead-houses.--Melancholy Spectacle.--Approach of Night.--Desolate Region.--Convent of the Great St. Bernard.--Our Reception there.--Unhealthiness of the Situation.--The Superior.--Conversation during Supper.--Coal-mine on the Mountain.--Night in the Convent.
LETTER XXII.
Sublime Desolation.--A Morning Walk.--The Col.--A Lake.--Site of a Roman Temple.--Enter Italy.--Dreary Monotony.--Return to the Convent.--Tasteless Character of the Building.--Its Origin and Purposes.--The Dead-house.--Dogs of St. Bernard.--The Chapel.--Desaix interred here.--Fare of St. Bernard, and Deportment of the Monks.--Leave the Convent.--Our Guide's Notion of the Americans.--Passage of Napoleon across the Great St. Bernard.--Similar Passages in former times.--Transport of Artillery up the Precipices.--Napoleon's perilous Accident.--Return to Vévey.
LETTER XXIII.
Democracy in America and in Switzerland.--European Prejudices.--Influence of Property.--Nationality of the Swiss.--Want of Local Attachments in Americans.--Swiss Republicanism.--Political Crusade against America.--Affinities between America and Russia.--Feeling of the European Powers towards Switzerland.
LETTER XXIV.
The Swiss Mountain Passes.--Excursion in the neighbourhood of Vévey.--Castle of Blonay.--View from the Terrace.--Memory and Hope.--Great Antiquity of Blonay.--The Knight's Hall.--Prospect from the Balcony.--Departure from Blonay.--A Modern Chateau.--Travelling on Horseback.--News from America.--Dissolution of the Union predicted.--The Prussian Polity.--Despotism in Prussia.
LETTER XXV.
Controversy respecting America.--Conduct of American Diplomatists.--_Attachés_ to American Legations.--Unworthy State of Public Opinion in America.
LETTER XXVI.
Approach of Winter.--The Livret.--Regulations respecting Servants.--Servants in America.--Governments of the different Cantons of Switzerland.--Engagement of Mercenaries.--Population of Switzerland.--Physical Peculiarities of the Swiss.--Women of Switzerland.--Mrs. Trollope and the American Ladies.--Affected manner of speaking in American Women.--Patois in America.--Peculiar manner of Speaking at Vévey.--Swiss Cupidity.
LETTER XXVII.
Departure from Vévey.--Passage down the Lake.--Arrival at Geneva.--Purchase of Jewellery.--Leave Geneva.--Ascent of the Jura.--Alpine Views.--Rudeness at the Custom-house.--Smuggling.--A Smuggler detected.--The second Custom-house.--Final View of Mont Blanc.--Re-enter France.--Our luck at the Post-house in D?le.--A Scotch Traveller.--Nationality of the Scotch.--Road towards Troyes.--Source of the Seine.
LETTER XXVIII.
Miserable Inn.--A French Bed.--Free Trade.--French Relics.--Cross Roads.--Arrival at Lagrange.--Reception by General Lafayette.--The Nullification Strife.--Conversation with Lafayette.--His Opinion as to a Separation of the Union in America.--The Slave Question.--Stability of the Union.--Style of living at La Grange.--Pap.--French Manners, and the French Cuisine.--Departure from La Grange.--Return to Paris.

RESIDENCE
IN FRANCE.

LETTER I.
Influence of the late Revolution in France.--General Lafayette--Sketch of his Private Life.--My visits to him.--His opinion of Louis XVI.--Mr. Morris and Mr. Crawford.--Duplicity of Louis XVIII.--Charles X.--Marie Antoinette.--Legitimacy of the Duc de Bordeaux.--Discovery of the Plot of 1822.--Lafayette's conduct on that occasion.--A negro Spy.--General Knyphausen.--Louis-Philippe and Lafayette.--My visit to Court.--The King, the Queen, Madame Adelaide, and the Princesses.--Marshal Jourdan.--The Duke of Orleans.--Interview with the King.--"_Adieu l'Amérique!_"--Conversation with Lafayette.--The Juste Milieu.--Monarchy not inconsistent with Republican Institutions.--Party in favour of the Duc de Bordeaux.
Paris, February, 1832.
Dear ----,
Your speculations concerning the influence of the late revolution, on the social habits of the French, are more ingenious than true. While the mass of this nation has obtained less than they had a right to expect by the severe political convulsions they have endured, during the last forty years, they have, notwithstanding, gained something in their rights; and, what is of far more importance, they have gained in a better appreciation of those rights, as well as in the knowledge of the means to turn them to a profitable and practical account. The end will show essential improvements in their condition, or rather the present time shows it already. The change in polite society has been less favourable, although even this is slowly gaining in morals, and in a healthier tone of thought. No error can be greater, than that of believing France has endured so much, without a beneficial return.
In making up my opinions of the old regime, I have had constant recourse to General Lafayette for information. The conversations and anecdotes already sent you, will have prepared you for the fine tone, and perfect candour, with which he speaks even of his bitterest enemies; nor can I remember, in the many confidential and frank communications with which I have been favoured, a single instance where, there has been the smallest reason to suspect he has viewed men through the medium of personal antipathies and prejudices. The candour and simplicity of his opinions form beautiful features in his character; and the _bienséance_ of his mind (if one may use such an expression) throws a polish over his harshest strictures, that is singularly adapted to obtain credit for his judgment.
Your desire to know more of the private life of this extraordinary man, is quite natural; but he has been so long before the public, that it is not easy to say anything new. I may, however, give you a trait or two, to amuse you.
I have seen more of him this winter than the last, owing to the circumstance of a committee of Americans, that have been appointed to administer succour to the exiled Poles, meeting weekly at my house, and it is rare indeed that he is not present on these benevolent occasions. He has discontinued his own soirées, too; and, having fewer demands on his time, through official avocations, I gain admittance to