A Residence in France | Page 2

the following morning.--England an enemy to Liberty.--Affair at the Porte St. Denis.--Procession of Louis-Philippe through the streets.--Contest in the Rue St. Méry.--Sudden Panic.--Terror of a national Guard and a young Conscript.--Dinner with a Courtier.--Suppression of the Revolt
LETTER V.
National Guards in the Court of the Palace.--Unclaimed Dead in the Morgue.--View of the Scene of Action.--A blundering Artillerist.--Singular Spectacle.--The Machinations of the Government.--Martial Law.--Violations of the Charter.--Laughable Scene in the Carrousel.--A refractory Private of the National Guard.
LETTER VI.
Aspect of Paris.--Visit to Lafayette.--His demeanour.--His account of the commencement of the Revolt.--Machinations of the Police.--Character of Lafayette.--His remarkable expression to General ----.--Conversation on the Revolution of July.--The Doctrinaires.--Popular Sympathy in England and on the Rhine.--Lafayette's dismissal from the command of the National Guards.--The Duke of Orleans and his Friends.--Military Tribunals in Paris.--The Citizen King in the Streets.--Obliteration of the _Fleur-de-lis._--The Royal Equipage.--The Duke of Brunswick in Paris.--His forcible Removal from France.--His Reception in Switzerland.--A ludicrous Mistake.
LETTER VII.
Public Dinner.--Inconsiderate Impulses of Americans.--Rambles in Paris.--The Churches of Paris.--View from the leads of Notre Dame.--The Place Royale.--The Bridges.--Progress of the Public Works.--The Palaces of the Louvre and the Tuileries.--Royal Enclosures in the Gardens of the Tuileries.--Public Edifices.--Private Hotels and Gardens.--My Apartments in the house of the Montmorencies.--Our other Residences.--Noble Abodes in Paris.--Comparative Expense of Living in Paris and New York.--American Shopkeepers, and those of Europe.
LETTER VIII.
Preparations for leaving Paris.--Travelling arrangements.--Our Route.--The Chateau of Ecouen.--The _Croisée_.--Senlis.--Peronne.--Cambray.--Arrival at the Frontier.--Change in the National Character.--Mons.--Brussels.--A Fête.--The Picture Gallery.--Probable Partition of Belgium.
LETTER IX.
Malines.--Its Collection of Pictures.--Antwerp.--The Cathedral.--A Flemish Quack.--Flemish Names.--The Picture Gallery at Antwerp.--Mr. Wapper's Carvings in Wood.--Mr. Van Lankeren's Pictures.--The Boulevards at Brussels.--Royal Abodes.--Palace of the Prince of Orange.--Prince Auguste d'Ahremberg's Gallery of Pictures.--English Ridicule of America.
LETTER X.
School System in America.--American Maps.--Leave Brussels.--Louvain.--Quarantine.--Liége.--The Soleil d'Or.--King Leopold and Brother.--Royal Intermarriages.--Environs of Liége.--The Cathedral and the Church of St. Jacques.--Ceremonies of Catholic Worship.--Churches of Europe.--Taverns of America.--Prayer in the Fields.--Scott's error as regards the Language spoken in Liége.--Women of Liége.--Illumination in honour of the King
LETTER XI.
Leave Liége.--Banks of the Meuse.--Spa.--Beautiful Promenades.--Robinson Crusoe.--The Duke of Saxe-Cobourg.--Former magnificence of Spa.--Excursions in the vicinity.--Departure from Spa.--Aix-la-Chapelle.--The Cathedral.--The Postmaster's Compliments.--Berghem.--German Enthusiasm.--Arrival at Cologne.
LETTER XII.
The Cathedral of Cologne.--The eleven thousand Virgins.--The Skulls of the Magi--House in which Rubens was born.--Want of Cleanliness in Cologne.--Journey resumed.--The Drachenfels.--Romantic Legend.--A Convent converted into an Inn.--Its Solitude.--A Night in it.--A Storm.--A Nocturnal Adventure.--Grim Figures.--An Apparition.--The Mystery dissolved.--Palace of the Kings of Austrasia.--Banks of the Rhine.--Coblentz.--Floating Bridges.--Departure from Coblentz.--Castle of the Ritterstein.--Visit to it.--Its Furniture.--The Ritter Saal.--Tower of the Castle.--Anachronisms.
LETTER XIII.
Ferry across the Rhine.--Village of Rudesheim.--The _Hinter-hausen_ Wine.--Drunkenness.--Neapolitan curiosity respecting America.--The Rhenish Wines enumerated.--Ingelheim.--Johannisberg.--Conventual Wine.--Unseasonable praise.--House and Grounds of Johannisberg.--State of Nassau.--Palace at Biberich.--The Gardens.--Wiesbaden.--Its public Promenade.--Frankfort on the Maine.
LETTER XIV.
Boulevards of Frankfort.--Political Disturbances in the town.--Le petit Savoyard.--Distant glimpse of Homberg.--Darmstadt.--The Bergestrasse.--Heidelberg.--Noisy Market-place.--The Ruins and Gardens.--An old Campaigner.--Valley of the Neckar.--Heilbronn.--Ludwigsberg.--Its Palace.--The late Queen of Wurtemberg.--The Birthplace of Schiller.--Comparative claims of Schiller and Goethe.--Stuttgart.--Its Royal Residences.--The Princess of Hechingen.--German Kingdoms.--The King and Queen of Wurtemberg.--Sir Walter Scott.--Tubingen.--Ruin of a Castle of the middle ages.--Hechingen.--Village of Bahlingen.--The Danube.--The Black Forest.--View from a mountain on the frontier of Baden.--Enter Switzerland.
LETTER XV.
A Swiss Inn.--Cataract of the Rhine.--Canton of Zurich.--Town of Zurich.--Singular Concurrence.--Formidable Ascent.--Exquisite View.--Einsiedeln.--The Convent.--"Par exemple."--Shores of the Lake of Zug.--The Chemin Creux.--Water Excursion to Alpnach.--Lake of Lungern.--Lovely Landscape.--Effects of Mists on the prospect.--Natural Barometer.--View from the Brunig.--Enter the great Canton of Berne.--An Englishman's Politics.--Our French Companion.--The Giesbach.--Mountain Music.--Lauterbrunnen.--Grindewald.--Rising of the Waters in 1830.--Anecdote.--Excursion on the Lake to Thoun.
LETTER XVI.
Conspiracy discovered.--The Austrian Government and the French Carlists.--Walk to La Lorraine.--Our old friend "Turc."--Conversation with M. W----.--View of the Upper Alps.--Jerome Bonaparte at La Lorraine.--The Bears of Berne.--Scene on the Plateforme.
LETTER XVII.
Our Voiturier and his Horses.--A Swiss Diligence.--Morat.--Inconstancy of feeling.--Our Route to Vévey.--Lake Leman.--Difficulty in hiring a House.--"Mon Repos" engaged for a month.--Vévey.--The great Square.--The Town-house.--Environs of Vévey.--Summer Church and Winter Church.--Clergy of the Canton.--Population of Vaud.--Elective qualifications of Vaud.
LETTER XVIII.
Neglect of the Vine in America.--Drunkenness in France.--Cholera especially fatal to Drunkards.--The Soldier's and the Sailor's Vice.--Sparkling Champagne and Still Champagne.--Excessive Price of these Wines in America.--Burgundy.--Proper soil for the Vine.--Anecdote.--Vines of Vévey.--The American Fox-grape.
LETTER XIX.
The Leman Lake.--Excursions on it.--The coast of Savoy.--Grandeur and beauty of the Rocks.--Sunset.--Evening Scene.--American Families residing on the banks of the Lake.--Conversation with a Vévaisan on the subject of America.--The Nullification Question.--America misrepresented in Europe--Rowland Stephenson in the United States.--Unworthy arts to bring America into disrepute.--Blunders of Europe in respect of America.--The Kentuckians.--Foreign Associations in the States.--Illiberal Opinions of many Americans.--Prejudices.
LETTER XX.
The Equinox.--Storm on the Lake.--Chase of a little Boat--Chateau of Blonay.--Drive to Lausanne.--Mont Benon.--Trip to Geneva in the Winkelried.--Improvements in Geneva.--Russian Travellers.--M. Pozzo di Borgo.--Table d'h?te.--Extravagant Affirmations of a Frenchman.--Conversation with a Scotchman.--American Duels.--Visit at a Swiss Country-house.--English Customs affected in America.--Social Intercourse in the United States.--Difference between a European and an American Foot and Hand.--Violent Gale.--Sheltered position of Vévey.--Promenade.--Picturesque View.--The great Square.--Invitation.--Mountain Excursion.--An American Lieutenant.--Anecdote.--Extensive Prospect.--Chateau of Glayrole.
LETTER