A Residence in France | Page 3

Opinions of many
Americans.--Prejudices.
LETTER XX.
The Equinox.--Storm on the Lake.--Chase of a little Boat--Chateau of
Blonay.--Drive to Lausanne.--Mont Benon.--Trip to Geneva in the
Winkelried.--Improvements in Geneva.--Russian Travellers.--M. Pozzo
di Borgo.--Table d'hôte.--Extravagant Affirmations of a
Frenchman.--Conversation with a Scotchman.--American Duels.--Visit
at a Swiss Country-house.--English Customs affected in
America.--Social Intercourse in the United States.--Difference between
a European and an American Foot and Hand.--Violent Gale.--Sheltered
position of Vévey.--Promenade.--Picturesque View.--The great

Square.--Invitation.--Mountain Excursion.--An American
Lieutenant.--Anecdote.--Extensive Prospect.--Chateau of Glayrole.
LETTER XXI.
Embark in the Winkelried.--Discussion with an Englishman.--The
Valais.--Free Trade.--The Drance.--Terrible
Inundation.--Liddes.--Mountain Scenery.--A Mountain
Basin.--Dead-houses.--Melancholy Spectacle.--Approach of
Night.--Desolate Region.--Convent of the Great St. Bernard.--Our
Reception there.--Unhealthiness of the Situation.--The
Superior.--Conversation during Supper.--Coal-mine on the
Mountain.--Night in the Convent.
LETTER XXII.
Sublime Desolation.--A Morning Walk.--The Col.--A Lake.--Site of a
Roman Temple.--Enter Italy.--Dreary Monotony.--Return to the
Convent.--Tasteless Character of the Building.--Its Origin and
Purposes.--The Dead-house.--Dogs of St. Bernard.--The
Chapel.--Desaix interred here.--Fare of St. Bernard, and Deportment of
the Monks.--Leave the Convent.--Our Guide's Notion of the
Americans.--Passage of Napoleon across the Great St.
Bernard.--Similar Passages in former times.--Transport of Artillery up
the Precipices.--Napoleon's perilous Accident.--Return to Vévey.
LETTER XXIII.
Democracy in America and in Switzerland.--European
Prejudices.--Influence of Property.--Nationality of the Swiss.--Want of
Local Attachments in Americans.--Swiss Republicanism.--Political
Crusade against America.--Affinities between America and
Russia.--Feeling of the European Powers towards Switzerland.
LETTER XXIV.
The Swiss Mountain Passes.--Excursion in the neighbourhood of
Vévey.--Castle of Blonay.--View from the Terrace.--Memory and

Hope.--Great Antiquity of Blonay.--The Knight's Hall.--Prospect from
the Balcony.--Departure from Blonay.--A Modern Chateau.--Travelling
on Horseback.--News from America.--Dissolution of the Union
predicted.--The Prussian Polity.--Despotism in Prussia.
LETTER XXV.
Controversy respecting America.--Conduct of American
Diplomatists.--_Attachés_ to American Legations.--Unworthy State of
Public Opinion in America.
LETTER XXVI.
Approach of Winter.--The Livret.--Regulations respecting
Servants.--Servants in America.--Governments of the different Cantons
of Switzerland.--Engagement of Mercenaries.--Population of
Switzerland.--Physical Peculiarities of the Swiss.--Women of
Switzerland.--Mrs. Trollope and the American Ladies.--Affected
manner of speaking in American Women.--Patois in America.--Peculiar
manner of Speaking at Vévey.--Swiss Cupidity.
LETTER XXVII.
Departure from Vévey.--Passage down the Lake.--Arrival at
Geneva.--Purchase of Jewellery.--Leave Geneva.--Ascent of the
Jura.--Alpine Views.--Rudeness at the Custom-house.--Smuggling.--A
Smuggler detected.--The second Custom-house.--Final View of Mont
Blanc.--Re-enter France.--Our luck at the Post-house in Dôle.--A
Scotch Traveller.--Nationality of the Scotch.--Road towards
Troyes.--Source of the Seine.
LETTER XXVIII.
Miserable Inn.--A French Bed.--Free Trade.--French Relics.--Cross
Roads.--Arrival at Lagrange.--Reception by General Lafayette.--The
Nullification Strife.--Conversation with Lafayette.--His Opinion as to a
Separation of the Union in America.--The Slave Question.--Stability of
the Union.--Style of living at La Grange.--Pap.--French Manners, and

the French Cuisine.--Departure from La Grange.--Return to Paris.

RESIDENCE
IN FRANCE.

LETTER I.
Influence of the late Revolution in France.--General Lafayette--Sketch
of his Private Life.--My visits to him.--His opinion of Louis XVI.--Mr.
Morris and Mr. Crawford.--Duplicity of Louis XVIII.--Charles
X.--Marie Antoinette.--Legitimacy of the Duc de Bordeaux.--Discovery
of the Plot of 1822.--Lafayette's conduct on that occasion.--A negro
Spy.--General Knyphausen.--Louis-Philippe and Lafayette.--My visit to
Court.--The King, the Queen, Madame Adelaide, and the
Princesses.--Marshal Jourdan.--The Duke of Orleans.--Interview with
the King.--"_Adieu l'Amérique!_"--Conversation with Lafayette.--The
Juste Milieu.--Monarchy not inconsistent with Republican
Institutions.--Party in favour of the Duc de Bordeaux.
Paris, February, 1832.
Dear ----,
Your speculations concerning the influence of the late revolution, on
the social habits of the French, are more ingenious than true. While the
mass of this nation has obtained less than they had a right to expect by
the severe political convulsions they have endured, during the last forty
years, they have, notwithstanding, gained something in their rights; and,
what is of far more importance, they have gained in a better
appreciation of those rights, as well as in the knowledge of the means
to turn them to a profitable and practical account. The end will show
essential improvements in their condition, or rather the present time
shows it already. The change in polite society has been less favourable,
although even this is slowly gaining in morals, and in a healthier tone

of thought. No error can be greater, than that of believing France has
endured so much, without a beneficial return.
In making up my opinions of the old regime, I have had constant
recourse to General Lafayette for information. The conversations and
anecdotes already sent you, will have prepared you for the fine tone,
and perfect candour, with which he speaks even of his bitterest enemies;
nor can I remember, in the many confidential and frank
communications with which I have been favoured, a single instance
where, there has been the smallest reason to suspect he has viewed men
through the medium of personal antipathies and prejudices. The
candour and simplicity of his opinions form beautiful features in his
character; and the _bienséance_ of his mind (if one may use such an
expression) throws a polish over his harshest strictures, that is
singularly adapted to obtain credit for his judgment.
Your desire to know more of the private life of this extraordinary man,
is quite natural; but he