A Residence in France | Page 2

Pont Royal.--Charge on the people by
a body of cavalry.--The Sommations.--General Lafayette and the
Bonnet Rouge.--Popular Prejudices in France, England, and
America.--Contest in the Quartier Montmartre.--The Place Louis
XVI.--A frightened Sentinel.--Picturesque Bivouac of troops in the
Carrousel.--Critical situation.--Night-view from the Pont des
Arts.--Appearance of the Streets on the following morning.--England
an enemy to Liberty.--Affair at the Porte St. Denis.--Procession of
Louis-Philippe through the streets.--Contest in the Rue St.
Méry.--Sudden Panic.--Terror of a national Guard and a young
Conscript.--Dinner with a Courtier.--Suppression of the Revolt
LETTER V.
National Guards in the Court of the Palace.--Unclaimed Dead in the
Morgue.--View of the Scene of Action.--A blundering
Artillerist.--Singular Spectacle.--The Machinations of the
Government.--Martial Law.--Violations of the Charter.--Laughable
Scene in the Carrousel.--A refractory Private of the National Guard.
LETTER VI.
Aspect of Paris.--Visit to Lafayette.--His demeanour.--His account of
the commencement of the Revolt.--Machinations of the
Police.--Character of Lafayette.--His remarkable expression to General
----.--Conversation on the Revolution of July.--The
Doctrinaires.--Popular Sympathy in England and on the

Rhine.--Lafayette's dismissal from the command of the National
Guards.--The Duke of Orleans and his Friends.--Military Tribunals in
Paris.--The Citizen King in the Streets.--Obliteration of the
_Fleur-de-lis._--The Royal Equipage.--The Duke of Brunswick in
Paris.--His forcible Removal from France.--His Reception in
Switzerland.--A ludicrous Mistake.
LETTER VII.
Public Dinner.--Inconsiderate Impulses of Americans.--Rambles in
Paris.--The Churches of Paris.--View from the leads of Notre
Dame.--The Place Royale.--The Bridges.--Progress of the Public
Works.--The Palaces of the Louvre and the Tuileries.--Royal
Enclosures in the Gardens of the Tuileries.--Public Edifices.--Private
Hotels and Gardens.--My Apartments in the house of the
Montmorencies.--Our other Residences.--Noble Abodes in
Paris.--Comparative Expense of Living in Paris and New
York.--American Shopkeepers, and those of Europe.
LETTER VIII.
Preparations for leaving Paris.--Travelling arrangements.--Our
Route.--The Chateau of Ecouen.--The
_Croisée_.--Senlis.--Peronne.--Cambray.--Arrival at the
Frontier.--Change in the National Character.--Mons.--Brussels.--A
Fête.--The Picture Gallery.--Probable Partition of Belgium.
LETTER IX.
Malines.--Its Collection of Pictures.--Antwerp.--The Cathedral.--A
Flemish Quack.--Flemish Names.--The Picture Gallery at
Antwerp.--Mr. Wapper's Carvings in Wood.--Mr. Van Lankeren's
Pictures.--The Boulevards at Brussels.--Royal Abodes.--Palace of the
Prince of Orange.--Prince Auguste d'Ahremberg's Gallery of
Pictures.--English Ridicule of America.
LETTER X.

School System in America.--American Maps.--Leave
Brussels.--Louvain.--Quarantine.--Liége.--The Soleil d'Or.--King
Leopold and Brother.--Royal Intermarriages.--Environs of Liége.--The
Cathedral and the Church of St. Jacques.--Ceremonies of Catholic
Worship.--Churches of Europe.--Taverns of America.--Prayer in the
Fields.--Scott's error as regards the Language spoken in
Liége.--Women of Liége.--Illumination in honour of the King
LETTER XI.
Leave Liége.--Banks of the Meuse.--Spa.--Beautiful
Promenades.--Robinson Crusoe.--The Duke of Saxe-Cobourg.--Former
magnificence of Spa.--Excursions in the vicinity.--Departure from
Spa.--Aix-la-Chapelle.--The Cathedral.--The Postmaster's
Compliments.--Berghem.--German Enthusiasm.--Arrival at Cologne.
LETTER XII.
The Cathedral of Cologne.--The eleven thousand Virgins.--The Skulls
of the Magi--House in which Rubens was born.--Want of Cleanliness
in Cologne.--Journey resumed.--The Drachenfels.--Romantic
Legend.--A Convent converted into an Inn.--Its Solitude.--A Night in
it.--A Storm.--A Nocturnal Adventure.--Grim Figures.--An
Apparition.--The Mystery dissolved.--Palace of the Kings of
Austrasia.--Banks of the Rhine.--Coblentz.--Floating
Bridges.--Departure from Coblentz.--Castle of the Ritterstein.--Visit to
it.--Its Furniture.--The Ritter Saal.--Tower of the
Castle.--Anachronisms.
LETTER XIII.
Ferry across the Rhine.--Village of Rudesheim.--The _Hinter-hausen_
Wine.--Drunkenness.--Neapolitan curiosity respecting America.--The
Rhenish Wines enumerated.--Ingelheim.--Johannisberg.--Conventual
Wine.--Unseasonable praise.--House and Grounds of
Johannisberg.--State of Nassau.--Palace at Biberich.--The
Gardens.--Wiesbaden.--Its public Promenade.--Frankfort on the Maine.

LETTER XIV.
Boulevards of Frankfort.--Political Disturbances in the town.--Le petit
Savoyard.--Distant glimpse of Homberg.--Darmstadt.--The
Bergestrasse.--Heidelberg.--Noisy Market-place.--The Ruins and
Gardens.--An old Campaigner.--Valley of the
Neckar.--Heilbronn.--Ludwigsberg.--Its Palace.--The late Queen of
Wurtemberg.--The Birthplace of Schiller.--Comparative claims of
Schiller and Goethe.--Stuttgart.--Its Royal Residences.--The Princess of
Hechingen.--German Kingdoms.--The King and Queen of
Wurtemberg.--Sir Walter Scott.--Tubingen.--Ruin of a Castle of the
middle ages.--Hechingen.--Village of Bahlingen.--The Danube.--The
Black Forest.--View from a mountain on the frontier of Baden.--Enter
Switzerland.
LETTER XV.
A Swiss Inn.--Cataract of the Rhine.--Canton of Zurich.--Town of
Zurich.--Singular Concurrence.--Formidable Ascent.--Exquisite
View.--Einsiedeln.--The Convent.--"Par exemple."--Shores of the Lake
of Zug.--The Chemin Creux.--Water Excursion to Alpnach.--Lake of
Lungern.--Lovely Landscape.--Effects of Mists on the
prospect.--Natural Barometer.--View from the Brunig.--Enter the great
Canton of Berne.--An Englishman's Politics.--Our French
Companion.--The Giesbach.--Mountain
Music.--Lauterbrunnen.--Grindewald.--Rising of the Waters in
1830.--Anecdote.--Excursion on the Lake to Thoun.
LETTER XVI.
Conspiracy discovered.--The Austrian Government and the French
Carlists.--Walk to La Lorraine.--Our old friend "Turc."--Conversation
with M. W----.--View of the Upper Alps.--Jerome Bonaparte at La
Lorraine.--The Bears of Berne.--Scene on the Plateforme.
LETTER XVII.
Our Voiturier and his Horses.--A Swiss

Diligence.--Morat.--Inconstancy of feeling.--Our Route to
Vévey.--Lake Leman.--Difficulty in hiring a House.--"Mon Repos"
engaged for a month.--Vévey.--The great Square.--The
Town-house.--Environs of Vévey.--Summer Church and Winter
Church.--Clergy of the Canton.--Population of Vaud.--Elective
qualifications of Vaud.
LETTER XVIII.
Neglect of the Vine in America.--Drunkenness in France.--Cholera
especially fatal to Drunkards.--The Soldier's and the Sailor's
Vice.--Sparkling Champagne and Still Champagne.--Excessive Price of
these Wines in America.--Burgundy.--Proper soil for the
Vine.--Anecdote.--Vines of Vévey.--The American Fox-grape.
LETTER XIX.
The Leman Lake.--Excursions on it.--The coast of Savoy.--Grandeur
and beauty of the Rocks.--Sunset.--Evening Scene.--American Families
residing on the banks of the Lake.--Conversation with a Vévaisan on
the subject of America.--The Nullification Question.--America
misrepresented in Europe--Rowland Stephenson in the United
States.--Unworthy arts to bring America into disrepute.--Blunders of
Europe in respect of America.--The Kentuckians.--Foreign
Associations in the States.--Illiberal