A Narrative of the Expedition to Dongola and Sennaar | Page 9

noon we passed, on the east
bank, two very high, large and isolated rocks of irregular and
picturesque forms. On the side of the southernmost were the remains of
a considerable fortified town. The country hereabouts is very beautiful.
About three o'clock we passed another rapid, which was not however
very difficult. Found the river beyond this place much narrowed and
impeded by rocks. Passed two more rapids, the first of little
consequence, but the latter somewhat dangerous. In this last rapid saw
two boys sitting on a raft made of cornstalks lashed together, and
driving down the current. They appeared to be much at their ease, and

not at all alarmed at the rapid, though the current frequently whirled
their fragile raft round and round as it rushed past us. Soon after
passing this rapid the sun set, and we put to shore to pass the night.
19th of Safa. About two hours after sunrise we left the shore with a fair
and fresh breeze. The river here is broad, and the country on both banks
fertile and peopled. After about an hour's sail we came up with some
beautiful islands, one of them very large and among the finest we had
seen. The islands above the Second Cataract are probably the most
beautiful spots watered by the Nile, which rarely over flows them. They
are the most populous and best cultivated parts of this country. Half an
hour after we came up with the large island, the wind became squally,
and the boat could not make safe progress. Our rais therefore put to
shore, as did those of five other boats in company with ours. We
remained here for the rest of the day.
20th of Safa. In the morning, left the laud with the wind almost ahead.
After sailing about three miles, the rais found it necessary to put to
shore, as the wind was strong and too much ahead. Stayed by the land
till nearly noon, when the wind appearing to me and others on board,
more favorable, we, after some hard words with the rais, persuaded him
to get under way, the wind being about the same as in the morning, and
very strong. In about an hour we arrived at a bend in the river, which
enabled us to bring the wind aft.
We proceeded with great rapidity, threading the rocks and shoals with
which the river here abounds, till we came in view of a rapid ahead. We
had been informed, two days ago, that there was a dangerous rapid
between us and Dongola, and we congratulated ourselves that the wind
was fair and strong to push us through it; we passed it happily, though
not without peril. We felicitated ourselves on having cleared the only
obstacle, as we supposed, between us and the place of our destination,
when we came in view of another, of a more formidable appearance
than any we had yet seen. The passage lay where the river rolled
furiously over rocks under water, and between shores there was no
approaching, on account of the shoals and rocks above and under water
which lined them. The strong wind forced our boat alongside of another

that was struggling and reeling in the passage, to the imminent danger
of both. To clear this boat, our rais ventured to pass ours over a place
where the foam and fury of the water indicated latent rocks. We hardly
dared to breathe, but we did not strike here, but half a minute after we
were fast upon a sand bank. We stayed in this condition for about a
quarter of an hour, having in view close by us the wreck of a boat lost
here. With considerable difficulty our boat was disengaged, when we
put her before the wind and again faced this truly infernal pass. By the
force of the current, the boat neared a large and furious whirlpool,
formed by an eddy on the side of the passage. The steersman
endeavored, in vain, to counteract this drift of the boat by the aid of the
rudder. The side of the boat approached to within a yard of the white
foam which covered this dreadful spot. Our rais tore his turban from his
head, and lifted his clasped hands to Heaven, exclaiming, "We are
lost!" The rest of the boatmen were screaming to God and the prophet
for aid, when, I know not how, but by the good Providence that
watched over us, the boat cleared this peril, and others that beset us in
passing yet two more rapids almost as dangerous. On passing the last,
we found the river divided lengthways, by a ridge of rocks and low
islands covered with verdure. On the right or west side of this ridge,
where we were,