A Narrative of the Expedition to Dongola and Sennaar | Page 8

the middle of the afternoon, when the wind again hauled a little in
our favor, and with some difficulty we got to windward of the shore
and proceeded up the river. The river here is about half a mile broad,

and makes several turns which somewhat retarded our progress. We
observed some rocks and shoals, and on arriving at a place where the
river is divided by a large rocky island, observed a boat aground, which
had taken the right hand passage which was the broadest, and two
others turning back to take the passage on the other side of this island.
We followed their example, and found the passage safe enough. A little
beyond the upper end of this island the river makes an acute angle to
the right hand. We proceeded onwards till sunset, when we put to shore
in company with two other boats. The country we have passed through
to-day resembled that we saw yesterday, inferior to the fine territory of
Succoot.
19th of Safa, Left the land an hour and a half after sunrise, with a fine
breeze from the north. Sailed for about an hour through a country
where the rocky hills come down here and there close to the river banks
and narrowed the usual breadth of the Nile considerably. Observed
however in this tract of country a few fine and cultivated islands.
Shortly after the river widened, the rocky hills retired at a distance, and
the eye rested with pleasure on a beautiful country cultivated by the
inhabitants of a continued succession of villages and castles which
occupied both banks of the river. The country resembled the province
of Succoot, except that the date trees were not so numerous nor so tall
and large. Passed the ruins of a considerable fortified town situated on a
high hill on the west bank. A little beyond this place saw the ruins of a
temple; four of the columns are yet standing; could not go ashore to
examine it, as the wind was fair and strong, and the Rais under positive
orders to proceed with all expedition. Observed that several of the
castles we had passed yesterday and to-day appeared newer and better
constructed for defense than those we had seen along the Cataract. I
suspect that they were erected under the direction of the exiled
Mamalukes, as this tract forms a part of the territory subject to them
before the arrival of the Pasha Ismael. Continued to advance, through a
country very beautiful, the river here embosoming several large and
delightful islands, capable of being made, by the hands of enlightened
industry, every thing that the art of man operating upon a fine soil
under a soft climate could effect. We sailed pleasantly by these
charming shores and islands till an hour and a half before sunset, when

we came in view of a rapid ahead, and the wreck of a boat lost in
passing it. The Rais put to shore, and after taking on board a native of
the country to show him the passage through the rocks and shallows,
attempted to pass immediately; the effort was unsuccessful. After
remaining in the foaming passage for three quarters of an hour, we
found that the wind was not strong enough to force the boat through the
current, and as the sun was about setting and the wind falling, the Rais
was obliged to let the boat drift back to the shore from whence we had
departed.
18th of Safa. At about two hours after sunrise, the Rais thought the
wind sufficiently favorable and strong to carry the boat through the
rapid. We quitted the shore, and again faced the current. The Rais this
time was not mistaken; our boat forced her way slowly but victoriously
through the torrent, and in about three quarters of an hour carried us
safely into smooth water, where we could draw every advantage from a
fine wind, which swept us rapidly up the river between shores fertile
and cultivated by the inhabitants of a continued succession of villages
shaded by palm trees. About an hour after we had passed the rapid, we
stopped to receive on board three of our company who had left the boat
yesterday in search of fresh provisions on the western bank of the river.
They reported that they had seen a large pond of fresh water inland, and
had found the country for seven miles from the river crowded with
villages, and as fertile as possible. They represented that this country
was watered by two ranges of water-wheels; one range on the bank of
the river, which threw the water of the Nile into small canals leading to
reservoirs inland, from whence the other range took it up and
distributed it to this fine territory. About