A Narrative of the Expedition to Dongola and Sennaar | Page 5

of all on board. An
hour after, passed a picturesque spot, where the river is divided by a
high rocky island, supporting on its summit some ruined fortifications
made by the natives; on the right bank of the river, just opposite, is a
fertile spot of ground and a village, surrounded by date trees and
plantations.
Our Rais put to land about noon, the wind falling, and rocks and rapids
of formidable appearance being right ahead.[13] We have made about
eight miles to-day. Saw about two miles above us a number of boats
lying to the shore, apparently obstructed by the rapid just mentioned.
About the middle of the afternoon, in walking along the shore, saw a
crocodile; it was small, about three feet in length. When I came upon
him, he was sunning himself on the shore; on seeing me, he ran with
great rapidity and plunged into the river.
7th of Safa. Got under way about two hours after sunrise, to pass the
rocks and rapids already mentioned. The passage was dangerous, and
the boat thrice in imminent peril. We struck once on rocks under water,
where the current was running probably at the rate of six knots an hour.
The current, after about ten minutes, swept the boat off without having
received a hole in her bottom, otherwise we must probably have
perished. Shortly after we were jammed between a great shallow
whirlpool and a large boat on our starboard beam. This boat was dashed
by the current against ours, and menaced to shove her into the
whirlpool. The long lateen yards of the two boats got entangled, and I
was prepared to leap into the other boat, in anticipation of the
destruction of ours, when the wind freshened, and the large boat was

enabled to get clear of ours. Not long after, the same boat fell aboard of
us the second time, in a place where, if our boat had drifted twice her
length to leeward or astern, she must have run upon rocks. All these
accidents befell us, having under our eyes, at no great distance from us,
the wreck of a boat lost in this passage three or four days ago.[14] After
being for about two hours in danger, the boat arrived at the west bank
of the river, where we found many more waiting a sufficient wind to be
enabled to clear the remainder of the rapid, which runs very strong
here.
Stayed for a wind at this place two days. On the 10th of Safa, the boat
happily passed the remainder of the rapid, when the wind calmed, and
the Rais put to shore, there being yet a strong current to surmount.
Opposite to the place where we were, at about half a mile from the
shore, a boat had stuck fast upon some rocks this morning, all attempts
to get her off had proved unsuccessful, and she remained in that
position, with all her company on board, till next morning.
11th of Safa. Quitted the shore about an hour after sunrise, with a fine
northerly wind. Passed the boat just mentioned, whose people looked
very forlorn. Some small boats were then on the way to unload this
boat, should it be found impossible to disengage her. Proceeded on our
way, and passed a number of small but pretty islands, lying near the
west bank of the river. They are cultivated and inhabited by a
considerable population. The country on the borders of the river begins
to assume a better appearance--the territory of Succoot, which we were
now entering, containing many villages. Beyond the green banks of the
river, all is yellow desert, spotted with brown rocky mountains, which,
however, appeared to decrease in number and height as we advanced
up the river, till the country subsided into a plain, with a few isolated
mountains of singular forms and picturesque appearance here and there
in view. About two hours after mid-day we arrived at a place where the
river is embarrassed by small rocks and shoals, except a narrow pass on
the western side. We found the current here too strong to be
surmounted by the aid of what wind we had, and therefore put to shore
on a very fine island on our left. We passed the remainder of the day
here with satisfaction. This island is about a mile and a half in length,

naturally beautiful, and well cultivated by about fifty or sixty
inhabitants, who seemed to be well contented with their situation.[15]
We saw here three men of about twenty-five years of age, who had
been circumcised but five days past, a thing I had never before known
to have occurred to the children of Mussulmans.
12th of Safa. At an early hour, quitted the shore with a strong northerly