A Narrative of the Expedition to Dongola and Sennaar | Page 4

it being absolutely necessary that the wind
should be very strong to enable the boats to force themselves through
currents running between the rocks with dreadful rapidity; and more
than once the boatmen have hesitated to attempt a dangerous pass till
obliged by the presence and menaces of the Divan Effendi who
accompanied the boats.
On the 3d of Safa, about an hour after we had passed what our Rais told
us was the last rapid of consequence we should have to encounter, we
saw the wreck of a boat lying against a rock in the middle of the river,
her masts alone appearing out of the water. The river here is interrupted
by several high insulated rocks. We had been assured that we should
now find the river open and without difficulty, till we should come to
Succoot; the appearance of this boat seemed to contradict this
representation, and in about an hour after we had abundant reason to be
satisfied that it was false. I was congratulating myself that we had got
into smooth water, and indulging myself with a tranquil pipe of tobacco,
when suddenly the wind slackened just as we were passing between
two ledges of rocks where the river was running at the rate of about six
knots an hour. The current overpowered the effort of the sails, and
carried the boat directly among the reefs, near the west bank of the
river. After remaining for about ten minutes in a very perilous position,
the skill of our Rais happily got the boat to shore without injury.

3d of Safa. We remained all night at the place where we landed; in the
morning got under sail to pass the strong current we had attempted
yesterday without success. After buffeting about for an hour we were
forced to return to the bank of the river, and await a stronger wind. In
about an hour after the wind freshened and we got under way with
better fortune, and after passing the current before mentioned found
ourselves in smooth water. After sailing for an hour we stopped for ten
minutes at a place where we saw sheep, in order to purchase some,
having for the last twenty days been obliged to live on bread, rice, and
lentils. Succeeded in purchasing two lambs. The banks of the river
hereabouts present some fertile spots, a few of them cultivated. About
noon the wind fell and the Rais put to shore; we immediately set our
domestics about preparing the purchased meat, and shortly after we sat
down to this regale, which appeared to me the most delicious meal I
had eaten for many years.[12] Remained here for the remainder of the
day.
4th of Safa. Continued in the same place, there not being sufficient
wind to ascend the river. About two hours after noon arrived an Arab
from above; he was on his way to the Divan Effendi, who was a few
miles below us, to inform him that a boat, of which he had been one of
the crew, had been dashed to pieces against the rocks in attempting to
pass a rapid. I demanded of him "how many rapids there were yet
ahead;" he replied "that there were several; how many he did not
exactly know." This intelligence made me apprehensive that we might
be another month in getting through these obstacles, and determined
me to renew my efforts to obtain camels and proceed to the Pasha by
land. I had made several attempts to hire some for this purpose, during
the last fifteen days, without success. The man above mentioned
informed me that I could probably obtain some at a village about six
hours off. I determined to send my servants on the morrow to inquire.
5th of Safa. Passed the night at the same place; early in, the morning a
favorable breeze sprung up and the Rais got the boat under sail. Was
obliged, in consequence, to proceed in the boat as long as the wind held.
Observed as we proceeded a number of fertile spots, some of them
cultivated, and a few small villages. I was informed that these will

become more frequent as we proceed. During this day, with a favorable
wind, made only about twelve miles against the current.
6th of Safa. Got under way about two hours after sunrise, with a strong
breeze from the northward. About half an hour after quitting the land,
passed a dangerous rapid, occasioned by a. reef of rocks reaching
nearly across the river. In passing this rapid the wind slackened for half
a minute, and the current carried the boat astern to within six or seven
feet of the rocks; at this critical instant the wind happily freshened, and
forced the boat up the current, to the great relief