A Journey to the Western Isles of Scotland | Page 7

surveyed in the morning, and found it well built, airy, and
clean. The townhouse is a handsome fabrick with a portico. We then
went to view the English chapel, and found a small church, clean to a
degree unknown in any other part of Scotland, with commodious
galleries, and what was yet less expected, with an organ.
At our inn we did not find a reception such as we thought proportionate
to the commercial opulence of the place; but Mr. Boswell desired me to
observe that the innkeeper was an Englishman, and I then defended him
as well as I could.
When I had proceeded thus far, I had opportunities of observing what I
had never heard, that there are many beggars in Scotland. In Edinburgh
the proportion is, I think, not less than in London, and in the smaller
places it is far greater than in English towns of the same extent. It must,
however, be allowed that they are not importunate, nor clamorous.
They solicit silently, or very modestly, and therefore though their
behaviour may strike with more force the heart of a stranger, they are
certainly in danger of missing the attention of their countrymen.
Novelty has always some power, an unaccustomed mode of begging
excites an unaccustomed degree of pity. But the force of novelty is by
its own nature soon at an end; the efficacy of outcry and perseverance
is permanent and certain.
The road from Montrose exhibited a continuation of the same
appearances. The country is still naked, the hedges are of stone, and the
fields so generally plowed that it is hard to imagine where grass is
found for the horses that till them. The harvest, which was almost ripe,
appeared very plentiful.
Early in the afternoon Mr. Boswell observed that we were at no great
distance from the house of lord Monboddo. The magnetism of his

conversation easily drew us out of our way, and the entertainment
which we received would have been a sufficient recompense for a
much greater deviation.
The roads beyond Edinburgh, as they are less frequented, must be
expected to grow gradually rougher; but they were hitherto by no
means incommodious. We travelled on with the gentle pace of a Scotch
driver, who having no rivals in expedition, neither gives himself nor his
horses unnecessary trouble. We did not affect the impatience we did
not feel, but were satisfied with the company of each other as well
riding in the chaise, as sitting at an inn. The night and the day are
equally solitary and equally safe; for where there are so few travellers,
why should there be robbers.

ABERDEEN

We came somewhat late to Aberdeen, and found the inn so full, that we
had some difficulty in obtaining admission, till Mr. Boswell made
himself known: His name overpowered all objection, and we found a
very good house and civil treatment.
I received the next day a very kind letter from Sir Alexander Gordon,
whom I had formerly known in London, and after a cessation of all
intercourse for near twenty years met here professor of physic in the
King's College. Such unexpected renewals of acquaintance may be
numbered among the most pleasing incidents of life.
The knowledge of one professor soon procured me the notice of the rest,
and I did not want any token of regard, being conducted wherever there
was any thing which I desired to see, and entertained at once with the
novelty of the place, and the kindness of communication.
To write of the cities of our own island with the solemnity of
geographical description, as if we had been cast upon a newly
discovered coast, has the appearance of very frivolous ostentation; yet
as Scotland is little known to the greater part of those who may read
these observations, it is not superfluous to relate, that under the name of
Aberdeen are comprised two towns standing about a mile distant from
each other, but governed, I think, by the same magistrates.
Old Aberdeen is the ancient episcopal city, in which are still to be seen
the remains of the cathedral. It has the appearance of a town in decay,

having been situated in times when commerce was yet unstudied, with
very little attention to the commodities of the harbour.
New Aberdeen has all the bustle of prosperous trade, and all the shew
of increasing opulence. It is built by the water-side. The houses are
large and lofty, and the streets spacious and clean. They build almost
wholly with the granite used in the new pavement of the streets of
London, which is well known not to want hardness, yet they shape it
easily. It is beautiful and must be very lasting.
What particular parts of commerce are chiefly exercised by the
merchants