A Journey to the Western Isles of Scotland | Page 6

has nothing to contemplate but grounds that have no visible
boundaries, or are separated by walls of loose stone. From the bank of
the Tweed to St. Andrews I had never seen a single tree, which I did
not believe to have grown up far within the present century. Now and
then about a gentleman's house stands a small plantation, which in
Scotch is called a policy, but of these there are few, and those few all
very young. The variety of sun and shade is here utterly unknown.
There is no tree for either shelter or timber. The oak and the thorn is
equally a stranger, and the whole country is extended in uniform
nakedness, except that in the road between Kirkaldy and Cowpar, I
passed for a few yards between two hedges. A tree might be a show in
Scotland as a horse in Venice. At St. Andrews Mr. Boswell found only
one, and recommended it to my notice; I told him that it was rough and
low, or looked as if I thought so. This, said he, is nothing to another a
few miles off. I was still less delighted to hear that another tree was not
to be seen nearer. Nay, said a gentleman that stood by, I know but of
this and that tree in the county.
The Lowlands of Scotland had once undoubtedly an equal portion of
woods with other countries. Forests are every where gradually
diminished, as architecture and cultivation prevail by the increase of
people and the introduction of arts. But I believe few regions have been
denuded like this, where many centuries must have passed in waste
without the least thought of future supply. Davies observes in his
account of Ireland, that no Irishman had ever planted an orchard. For
that negligence some excuse might be drawn from an unsettled state of
life, and the instability of property; but in Scotland possession has long

been secure, and inheritance regular, yet it may be doubted whether
before the Union any man between Edinburgh and England had ever set
a tree.
Of this improvidence no other account can be given than that it
probably began in times of tumult, and continued because it had begun.
Established custom is not easily broken, till some great event shakes
the whole system of things, and life seems to recommence upon new
principles. That before the Union the Scots had little trade and little
money, is no valid apology; for plantation is the least expensive of all
methods of improvement. To drop a seed into the ground can cost
nothing, and the trouble is not great of protecting the young plant, till it
is out of danger; though it must be allowed to have some difficulty in
places like these, where they have neither wood for palisades, nor
thorns for hedges.
Our way was over the Firth of Tay, where, though the water was not
wide, we paid four shillings for ferrying the chaise. In Scotland the
necessaries of life are easily procured, but superfluities and elegancies
are of the same price at least as in England, and therefore may be
considered as much dearer.
We stopped a while at Dundee, where I remember nothing remarkable,
and mounting our chaise again, came about the close of the day to
Aberbrothick.
The monastery of Aberbrothick is of great renown in the history of
Scotland. Its ruins afford ample testimony of its ancient magnificence:
Its extent might, I suppose, easily be found by following the walls
among the grass and weeds, and its height is known by some parts yet
standing. The arch of one of the gates is entire, and of another only so
far dilapidated as to diversify the appearance. A square apartment of
great loftiness is yet standing; its use I could not conjecture, as its
elevation was very disproportionate to its area. Two corner towers,
particularly attracted our attention. Mr. Boswell, whose inquisitiveness
is seconded by great activity, scrambled in at a high window, but found
the stairs within broken, and could not reach the top. Of the other tower
we were told that the inhabitants sometimes climbed it, but we did not
immediately discern the entrance, and as the night was gathering upon
us, thought proper to desist. Men skilled in architecture might do what
we did not attempt: They might probably form an exact ground-plot of

this venerable edifice. They may from some parts yet standing
conjecture its general form, and perhaps by comparing it with other
buildings of the same kind and the same age, attain an idea very near to
truth. I should scarcely have regretted my journey, had it afforded
nothing more than the sight of Aberbrothick.

MONTROSE

Leaving these fragments of magnificence, we travelled on to Montrose,
which we