Young Americans Abroad | Page 6

ship and plant
his foot on Old England. It was quite strange to see it so light at half
past eight o'clock, although it was a rainy evening. I shall not soon
forget the cheerful appearance of the Adelphi, which, in all its
provisions for comfort, both in the coffee-room and our chambers,
struck me more favorably than any hotel I had ever seen. Although our
state-room on board the Arctic was one of the extra size and every
thing that was nice, yet I long for the conveniences of a bed-chamber
and a warm bath. I am quite disposed to join with the poor Irish woman
who had made a steerage passage from New York to Liverpool in a
packet ship; and when landed at St. George's pier, and seated on her
trunk, a lady who had also landed, when getting into her carriage, said,
"Well, my good woman, I suppose you are very glad to get out of the
ship?" Her reply was, "And indeed, my lady, every bone in my body
cries out feathers!"
Yours truly,
WELD.

Letter 3.
LIVERPOOL.

DEAR CHARLEY:--
Well, we have fairly commenced our travel, and yet I can scarcely
realize the fact that I am here in Old England, and that, for some
months at least, I shall be away from home and the occupations of the
school-room. The next day after landing we went to the custom-house
to see our fellow-passengers pass their effects, and really felt glad to
think of our good fortune in landing every thing at night and direct
from the ship. It was an exciting scene, and I was not a little amused to
observe the anxiety of the gentlemen to save their cigars from the duty
imposed, and which amounts to nine shillings sterling per pound. All
sorts of contrivances were in vogue, and the experiences of men were
various, the man with one hundred, perhaps, being brought up, while
his neighbor with five hundred passed off successfully, and, as he
cleared the building, seemed disposed to place his finger on the
prominent feature of his face.
I quite like the appearance of Liverpool. After walking through the
principal streets and making a general survey of the shops,--no one
speaks of store,--I think I can testify to the extraordinary cleanness of
the city, and the massiveness and grandeur of the public buildings.
Our attention was first directed to the cemetery which had been
described, you remember, to us one evening in the study. It is on the
confines of the city, and is made but of an old quarry. I liked it better
than any cemetery I ever saw; it is unlike all I had seen, and, though
comparatively small, is very picturesque, I may almost say romantic.
The walls are lofty, and are devoted to spacious tombs, and the
groundwork abounds in garden shrubbery and labyrinth. Some of the
monuments are striking. The access to this resting-place is by a steep
cut through the rock, and you pass under an archway of the most
imposing character. At the entrance of the cemetery is a neat chapel,
and the officiating minister has a dwelling-house near the gate.
I wish you could see a building now in progress, and which has taken
twelve or fourteen years to erect, and from its appearance will not, I
suppose, be finished in four or five more. It is called St. George's Hall.
The intent is to furnish suitable accommodations for the various law

courts, and also to contain the finest ball-room in Europe. It is in a
commanding position. I know little of architecture, but this building
strikes me as one of exquisite beauty. We obtained an order from the
mayor to be shown over it and examine the works, and we enjoyed it
very much. The great hall will be without a rival in England. The town
hall is a noble edifice, and the people are quite proud of it. The interior
is finely laid out, and has some spacious rooms for the civic revelries of
the fathers of the town. The good woman who showed us round feels
complacently enough as she explains the uses of the rooms. The
ball-room is ninety feet by forty-six, and forty feet high. The dining and
drawing-rooms are spacious apartments. On the grand staircase is a
noble statue of George Canning, by Chantrey, whose beautiful one of
Washington we have so often admired in the Boston State House. In
the building are some good paintings of the late kings; one or two by
Sir Thomas Lawrence. The Exchange is directly behind the hall, and
contains in the centre a glorious bronze monument to Lord Nelson, the
joint production of Wyat and Westmacott. Death is laying his hand
upon the hero's heart, and Victory