Years Journey through France and Part of Spain | Page 7

more like streets than caves; on
each side of which, bottled Champaigne was piled up some feet higher
than my head, and at least twelve deep. I bought two bottles to taste, of

that which the merchant assured me was each of the best sort he had,
and for which I paid him six livres: if he sells all he had in bottles at
that time, and at the same price, I shall not exceed the bounds of truth if
I say, I saw ten thousand pounds worth of bottled Champaigne in his
cellars. Neither of the bottles, however, contained wine so good as I
often drank in England; but perhaps we are deceived, and find it more
palatable by having sugar in it; for I suspect that most of the
Champaigne which is bottled for the use of English consumption, is so
prepared. That you may know however, for the future, whether
Champaigne or any other wine is so adulterated, I will give you an
infallible method to prove:--fill a small long-necked bottle with the
wine you would prove, and invert the neck of it into a tumbler of clear
water; if the wine be genuine, it will all remain in the bottle; if
adulterated, with sugar, honey, or any other sweet substance, the sweets
will all pass into the tumbler of water, and leave the genuine wine
behind. The difference between still Champaigne, and that which is
mousser, is owing to nothing more than the time of the year in which it
is bottled.
I found in this town an English gentleman, from whom we received
many civilities, and who made us acquainted with a French gentleman
and lady, whose partiality to the English nation is so great, that their
neighbours call their house "THE ENGLISH HOTEL." The partiality
of such a family is a very flattering, as well as a very pleasing
circumstance, to those who are so happy to be known to them, because
they are not only the first people in the town, but the _best_; and in
point of talents, inferior to none, perhaps, in the kingdom. I must not,
after saying so much, omit to tell you, it is _Monsieur & Madame de
Jardin_, of whom I speak; they live in the GRANDE PLACE,
_vis-a-vis_ the statue of the King; and if ever you come to Rheims, be
assured you will find it a GOOD PLACE. Madame de Jardin is not
only one of the highest-bred women in France, but one of the first in
point of letters, and that is saying a great deal, for France abounds more
with women of that turn than England. Mrs. Macaulay, Mrs. Carter,
Miss Aikin, and Mrs. Montague, are the only four ladies I can recollect
in England who are celebrated for their literary genius; in France, I
could find you a score or two. To give you some idea of the regard and

affection _Mons. de Jardin_ has for his wife,--for French husbands,
now and then, love their wives as well as we Englishmen do,--I send
you a line I found in his study, wrote under his lady's miniature picture:
"Chaque instant à mes yeux la rend Plus estimable."
This town stands in a vast plain, is of great extent, and enclosed within
high walls, and a deep ditch. The public walks are of great extent,
nobly planted, and the finest in the whole kingdom. It is, indeed, a large
and opulent city, and abounds not only with the best wine, but every
thing that is good; and every thing is plenty, and consequently cheap.
The fruit market, in particular, is superior to every thing of the kind I
ever beheld; but I will not tantalize you by saying any more upon that
subject. Adieu!
_P.S._ The Antiquarian will find amusement in this town. There are
some Roman remains worthy of notice; but such as require the
information of the inhabitant to be seen.

LETTER VI.
DIJON.
You will laugh, perhaps, when I tell you, I could hardly refrain from
tears when I took leave of the De Jardin family at Rheims,--but so it
was. Good-breeding, and attention, have so much the appearance of
friendship, that they may, and often do, deceive the most discerning
men;--no wonder, then, if I was unhappy in leaving a town, where I am
sure I met with the first, and had some reason to believe I should have
found the latter, had we staid to cultivate it. Bourgogne is, however, a
much finer province than Champaigne; and this town is delightfully
situated; that it is a cheap province, you will not doubt, even to English
travellers, when I tell you, that I had a good supper for four persons,
three decent beds, good hay, and plenty of corn, for my